Need help to fix my FZJ 80 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 15, 2017
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1
Messages
4
Location
Tajikistan
Hi,

Last year I embarked on the adventure to buy and drive a 1997 FZJ 80 4.5 in eastern Tajikistan. Spare parts are rare and so are qualified mechanics... Being tired of well-meant but not well-informed smattering, I try to figure out things myself. So, I'd be glad if anybody could help me understanding the following problem:

As soon as the engine warms up, say after 4-5km (in summer in town at 40-50km/h), the rpm suddenly drops (as if the gas supply is interrupted?), especially in a moment when I would slow down, shifting gears. Once this happens the first time, I need to push the gas pedal hard/ increase the rpm again and again or the engine would just die; which eventually anyways happens. From the point when the rpm drops first the car would rather stutter periodically then driving.

What happened so far: The petrol pump was replaced and the carburator examined whether the valve seals properly which it does. Yet, there would be way too much petrol inside the carburator.

That's all I can tell. I hope somebody has any clue what the issue might be?

Best,
Karalina
 
Not too sure if your model is the same as our models here in the U.S., but our 1997's are fuel injected and do not have carburetors. That being said, it sounds like you have an electrical problem that gets worse when hot. I'd start checking wires near hot places like on the firewall and near the motor. There are some wires on the engine itself on our fuel injected models that sometimes get cooked and start to short out, but on a carbureted truck I don't know if they would be the same. Maybe some folks from other countries can be more help.
 
If it really is an FZJ, it sounds like it might be the throttle position sensor.
 
My problem was in the TPS wiring which had broken down near the TPS plug end. Repaired that and no more problems.
 
Carburator? Are you sure?


Closely inspect the air intake pipe from the MAF to the engine. If cracked, the engine gets more air in and the ECU is trying to compensate, therefore you get surges and drops in RPM, it can also shake like a diesel engine, smell like it burns a lot of gas, no power, etc.
 
Thanks a lot for your fast replies and suggestions! I took pictures of the motor compartment, see below.

I should have mentioned that this car underwent multiple unconventional manipulations by local MacGyvers, just that they would not do such a good job. There are all sorts of improvisions, the electric wiring is a nightmare. As some of you have assumed, according to the VIN the car came originally with an FZ-FE engine and fuel injection, which was at some point replaced by an FZ-F engine and a carburator (not by me though).

One more symptom that I forgot: The gear shift needs to be in idle position when I want to start the car; if I push the clutch while operating the ignition, the engine would not start at all (irrespective whether the shift gear is in idle or first gear).

Will_engine-2.jpg


Will_engine-1.jpg
 
Oh my looks like some pieces are a missin
 
well I'd start with the vacuum lines, also the PCV line to the intake, another thing is the gas cap, due to heating up gas tank and causing a vapor lock,
 
Wow--
 
You are short of one belt of 2 get a new set
 
You will probably need to download the EWD, the electrical wiring diagrams that are available on here, and start there. I do not envy you your job of figuring out what all has been changed and then what it has been changed to, but if you really want to fix it that is a good place to start. Your starting problem is most likely due to the neutral safety switch, and that may have also been changed from the factory setup on the clutch to one on the transmission. Finding it and either bridging it or removing it may solve your problem.

My only thought on the carburetor would be that perhaps the choke is closing when it gets hot for some reason, that would cause the symptoms you mention. Don't know if it is an electrical problem or a vacuum problem, but if all else fails sticking a manual choke on that thing wouldn't be too out of place. That engine is some crazy improvisation! Never seen one like that.

Hope this helps.
 
You are short of one belt of 2 get a new set

No, there are two on there for the alternator / water pump. He's good there. I thought the same until I looked closer at the left side of the pictures.

This will be a tough one to do. It is an abomination of multiple versions.

I'm going to throw out an idea here, but a couple others need to chime ion and advise their thoughts.
@NLXTACY @Tools R Us @scottryana @inkpot

If the engine is dying or idling down after warm-up, I'm thinking that the computer is hitting "closed loop" temp designed for the fuel injection setup. Since the carburetor is there, does the computer adjust timing or anything that would affect this in this situation? Is the choke adjusted properly?

I also like what @artech posted about changing the neutral safety switch and bypassing it to allow it to be started regardless of clutch or shifter position.

I would also change the automatic choke to a manual choke. A throttle cable with a pull knob from a tractor or the like will easily substitute here.

Good luck!
 
I have zero experience with the carb 1FZ. Does it have a "computer", the distributor looks to be vacuum?
 
Were there ever any ACTUAL 1FZ-FE made with carburetors? I'm sure not USA market, but what about others? There is also a manual transmission here.

Maybe you questions would be well directed or enhanced by @beno and @cruiserdan . Their years of experience MAY shed some light on wat to do.
 

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