cheddar bob
SILVER Star
Curious - did PO discuss welding up the cladding holes at all or how he otherwise addressed those prior to painting?
My turbo Lx450
- Thread starter Realst8
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Yes, the holes were tig welded, sanded smooth, then smoothed with a tiny bit of finishing body filler.
No problem!
Manifold, down pipe, wastegate & turbo - $1294 w/tax and shipped ( with 10% discount, Easter weekend deal)
Intake silicone, aluminum tubes, and clamps - $310 w/ tax and shipped
Innovate PSB-1 wideband - $268 (amazon has the best price)
Split second enricher - $213
New Denso narrow band o2 - $52
OEM exhaust manifold gaskets, brake booster hose and check valve - $118
Misc. fittings, hardware, check valves, braided hose, exhaust housing heat shield - approx $150
I already had the earls flame guard and header wrap so that would have been about $100
I didn't like the fitting from cx for the turbo oil return so I purchased a 1/2npt to -10 fitting and tapped the aluminum part of the pan in the same location as the Witz'end kit and sealed with dirko
Also I use Norma brand hose clamps, not the cheap stuff that comes with the kit.
Total I'm under $2500 for turbo parts but also changed the oil and filter (rotella 5-40 syn)
I will be routing the dumptube into the downpipe. Its pretty loud and I want it to be a sleeper
I had already replaced the fuel pump and filter and with a TRE performance fuel pump TRE fuel pump. I bought two and always have the extra in my spare parts bag.
I did the charcoal canister mod by removing the little check valve and it worked, no more pressure in the tank. I don't think the internal check valve if kept in place would stop boost pressure on its own. I wonder if the forced induction guys without a check valve before the CC are pressurizing their fuel evap systems without knowing it. Just a thought it would have to be tested to know for sure. @TYM4FUN
I have been thinking about an intercooler but also water/meth injection. I ran water/meth on my bimmer which also had a huge A/A intercooler before switching to e85 and it works great, but I had it tuned way beyond what 91oct could handle so it was unsettling relying on the water/meth as actual fuel. I think I may try it on the 80 for intake cooling on hot days and long grades and see how it goes.
@Realst8 Super cool thanks
Attached is the way Safari routed its A2A intercooler. Very clean but does require relocation of the trans cooler.
- Thread starter
- #64
Thanks! Do you know where the Safari kit relocates the trans cooler?
Yes FWIW I had a Safari turbo for a couple of years and sold it to @8cam so I know the system
Also FWIW the Safari Turbo in 8cams 80 was installed in 1997 so it has proven itself over the years as a reliable set up.
Below the radiator intercooler between the frame rails.
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- Thread starter
- #66
Thank you for the info @LandCruiserPhil . Do you have the specs on the turbo used in the kit, specifically the exhaust side?
Check PM sent
Nice rig and nice turbo set up!
Is this the enricher you are running?
splitsec.com
Thanks!
Is this the enricher you are running?
LSC2-001 Universal Fuel Enrichment Module |
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #69
Yes @cowboyjack
Intercooler will it be over the counter or custom?
Any advantage Air-air over air-water?
Will an intercooler add performance or just keep the engine cooler?
Any advantage Air-air over air-water?
Will an intercooler add performance or just keep the engine cooler?
Intercooler will add performance and keep the engine safer, not necessarily cooler.
- Thread starter
- #72
I will piece together the parts and fabricate pieces if needed.
AA & WA have pros and cons. AA need airflow to work. WA work at any speed, as long as there is a fan pulling air through the heat exchanger, so probably better for slowish offroading. Water to air is a system with other components so not as simple.
All an intercooler does is cool the Intake charge but there are many benefits to that.
AA & WA have pros and cons. AA need airflow to work. WA work at any speed, as long as there is a fan pulling air through the heat exchanger, so probably better for slowish offroading. Water to air is a system with other components so not as simple.
All an intercooler does is cool the Intake charge but there are many benefits to that.
What is meant when you say an intercooler will keep the engine safer?
My thinking is that if the evap system is trying to purge while in boost than boost could flow into the fuel system and pressurize it.
The tank side is already has a check valve unless you are like me and removed it as it the problem with the canister. Also, the canister is already vented out the bottom coming from the VSV side.
So the correct set up is an intercooler for engine peace of mind and cooler air will add to the performance.
In short.. yes.
Pre-Detonation is bad.. when the knock sensor detects it, the computer retards the timing and you loose power. I remember when I was using the stock 3.25 pulley on my SC with NO intercooler and seeing the timing advance displayed on my UltraGage being in the -4 range.. effectively removing HP gains my SC would have giving me. All i got was extra heat and no extra power!
With my WAIC and a 2.8 pulley I dont see negative timing on the Ultra Gage, even under max boost.
Pre-Detonation is bad.. when the knock sensor detects it, the computer retards the timing and you loose power. I remember when I was using the stock 3.25 pulley on my SC with NO intercooler and seeing the timing advance displayed on my UltraGage being in the -4 range.. effectively removing HP gains my SC would have giving me. All i got was extra heat and no extra power!
With my WAIC and a 2.8 pulley I dont see negative timing on the Ultra Gage, even under max boost.
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