My TLC experience (1 Viewer)

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I’d try to find a guy that can massage the original pieces back to presentable. I’d hate to lose all of that original patina.

That's going to be near impossible while keeping the patina. The major bends in the clip are usually the easiset to pull by popping the spot welds on the braces and straightening each individual piece and reassembling. I'd bet it will be hard to keep the paint as well if you are banging those out as well.

It would probably be worth finding a new, patina'd front clip.
 
I’d try to find a guy that can massage the original pieces back to presentable. I’d hate to lose all of that original patina.


Wouldn't leaving it as is just be more patina?

I'll never understand why people love rock chips, dents, rust, exposed primer, and faded paint. To me it looks like something that was not respected, neglected, and not cared for. Different strokes for different folks. This thing is going into full paint fall of 2022. If I do it right, it won't matter, as I won't be around in 45 years to see what kind of neglect has taken place by me.

What I should do, is find somebody who really wants that stuff, and sell them this one. The problem is, in order to find something in this condition, it'll look basically the same. Unless they're willing to pay enough where I could go with a whole new aluminum body, but that will never happen except in the most freak of circumstance.
 
That's going to be near impossible while keeping the patina. The major bends in the clip are usually the easiset to pull by popping the spot welds on the braces and straightening each individual piece and reassembling. I'd bet it will be hard to keep the paint as well if you are banging those out as well.

It would probably be worth finding a new, patina'd front clip.


Might be able to do it with the bib. It doesn't look like there's any creases, but I haven't looked at it with repair in mind.

The bezel is a write off.
The grill, would be pretty impossible I'd think to get straight again without it looking like dog poo.
 
I ordered a bumper. I found a picture on Instagram of one I really like, asked who made it, and placed the order. I'll be adding a receiver to the front, and deleting the holes for the winch mount. I'll be getting it bare metal, and adding shackle mounts my self. I'll have to cut in the Rigid lights I picked up as well.

A dude I shoot with has a powdercoating business and also does Cerakote. I'm leaning towards doing the bumpers in Cerakote in whatever shade of gray matches the wheels the closest. I like the toughness of that stuff, and I freaking love the sheen.

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Insurance adjuster/appraiser is coming Thursday morning. I'm curious what he has to say.
 
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Started trying to figure out how I want my bumper to work out.
I had a couple of criteria that I had to have.
-Additional Reverse Lights. Switched so they are ON, OFF, ON w/ reverse.
-Retrieval points for a shackle.
-Tire carries that doesn't hit the tub. I'd like to add a strut possibly that holds it open as well.
-Swing out on passenger side that a basket that is removable.
-When the removable basket is off, ability to open the one ambulance door. (I put the dog in that way most of the time)
-2" Hitch reciever
-Didn't want to move my mud flaps.

I began by just cutting stuff and gluing stuff together. Half way through that, it looked stupid, and I changed direction a bit. It was also starting to drive me a little crazy, so I cut the front and rear plate out on the router. I used version one to layout most of the holes, then just put them in the program. There is a fricking ton of holes in the back of these things. I can export that file, and it should make the metal fab dude's life much easier when the time comes.
I had to tweak and cut the front plate that goes against the frame three times. Some screw ups, some things I just wanted to adjust.


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I wanted to use the factory signal assemblies, and I wanted them to be more or less flush with the back face of the bumper. That will mean a bracket inside to mount the light to.

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I think I want to clip the corner off here. With the tire in the way, I probably won't walk into it, but the other side will be empty most of the time. I also need to come up with an end cap I like. Right now outer edge of the bumper is about even with the body.

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I'm going to cut this wedge out of the middle for a couple of reasons.
-Man, there is a lot of flat area there.
-A little more purchase for a step for getting into the back.
-Making those bigger bolts that held the cheesy hitch on actually accessible without resorting to magic.
-I'm also thinking that the tire carrier catch will be mounted to the angled flat section on the sides. I think that's a winner of an idea. I might do something with a nut welded in there as well so if it rattles, and it bother me, it can be held down tightly by a fastener. I'm thinking a big plastic knob.

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Kinda where I'm thinking the clevis mount will be welded on.

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I need to also figure out a plate for under the receiver tube for safety chains.



I contacted the supplier for the wheels I ordered just curious if they had an ETA. Sounds like it'll be a month, and the message wasn't received to change the color. Which is fine. I'll be getting silver. They were supposed to be changed to Anthracite, and I thought it would look sweet to have the bumpers the same color as the wheels. I'm not certain Silver it the correct color, the really dark grey of the other wheels would fly. I'm back to thinking black.

I keep ordering and hoarding parts for the tear down. It's getting to be quite the pile of boxes.

Next weekend I think I'm going to try and get the fibreglass top off, so I can peel the rain gutter off and start getting the new one ready.

New/used bib, and bezel are at my buddy's autobody shop. He's going to sandblast and prime both parts and just paint the bezel. I'm planning on rattle canning the bib, since the green isn't a final color.
 
Started trying to figure out how I want my bumper to work out.
I had a couple of criteria that I had to have.
-Additional Reverse Lights. Switched so they are ON, OFF, ON w/ reverse.
-Retrieval points for a shackle.
-Tire carries that doesn't hit the tub. I'd like to add a strut possibly that holds it open as well.
-Swing out on passenger side that a basket that is removable.
-When the removable basket is off, ability to open the one ambulance door. (I put the dog in that way most of the time)
-2" Hitch reciever
-Didn't want to move my mud flaps.

I began by just cutting stuff and gluing stuff together. Half way through that, it looked stupid, and I changed direction a bit. It was also starting to drive me a little crazy, so I cut the front and rear plate out on the router. I used version one to layout most of the holes, then just put them in the program. There is a fricking ton of holes in the back of these things. I can export that file, and it should make the metal fab dude's life much easier when the time comes.
I had to tweak and cut the front plate that goes against the frame three times. Some screw ups, some things I just wanted to adjust.


View attachment 2856406

View attachment 2856407



I wanted to use the factory signal assemblies, and I wanted them to be more or less flush with the back face of the bumper. That will mean a bracket inside to mount the light to.

View attachment 2856408



I think I want to clip the corner off here. With the tire in the way, I probably won't walk into it, but the other side will be empty most of the time. I also need to come up with an end cap I like. Right now outer edge of the bumper is about even with the body.

View attachment 2856409



I'm going to cut this wedge out of the middle for a couple of reasons.
-Man, there is a lot of flat area there.
-A little more purchase for a step for getting into the back.
-Making those bigger bolts that held the cheesy hitch on actually accessible without resorting to magic.
-I'm also thinking that the tire carrier catch will be mounted to the angled flat section on the sides. I think that's a winner of an idea. I might do something with a nut welded in there as well so if it rattles, and it bother me, it can be held down tightly by a fastener. I'm thinking a big plastic knob.

View attachment 2856410




Kinda where I'm thinking the clevis mount will be welded on.

View attachment 2856411


I need to also figure out a plate for under the receiver tube for safety chains.



I contacted the supplier for the wheels I ordered just curious if they had an ETA. Sounds like it'll be a month, and the message wasn't received to change the color. Which is fine. I'll be getting silver. They were supposed to be changed to Anthracite, and I thought it would look sweet to have the bumpers the same color as the wheels. I'm not certain Silver it the correct color, the really dark grey of the other wheels would fly. I'm back to thinking black.

I keep ordering and hoarding parts for the tear down. It's getting to be quite the pile of boxes.

Next weekend I think I'm going to try and get the fibreglass top off, so I can peel the rain gutter off and start getting the new one ready.

New/used bib, and bezel are at my buddy's autobody shop. He's going to sandblast and prime both parts and just paint the bezel. I'm planning on rattle canning the bib, since the green isn't a final color.
Looking great!
 
I dig it. I was thinking I'd add an end cap of some sort, but with the corner clipped off, I don't think it'll be necessary or add anything for looks. I can't think of a functionary reason other than a branch or something getting wedged between the tub and bumper.


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Edges will all need to be eased when it's welded up. I need to tweak the radius in the corners, and the size of the bracket holding the Toyota lights. I'll probably make some templates for fastener mounting as well so nuts can be tacked on where necessary. I'll follow the fabricators advice on where bracing needs to happen, and what gauge material to use.

I think I can route the wiring for the auxiliary lights out through opening for the taillights on either side. That will require some allowance in the braces to go through.



This thing followed me home on Wednesday. I'm an idiot.

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I dig it. I was thinking I'd add an end cap of some sort, but with the corner clipped off, I don't think it'll be necessary or add anything for looks. I can't think of a functionary reason other than a branch or something getting wedged between the tub and bumper.


View attachment 2861210

View attachment 2861211

Edges will all need to be eased when it's welded up. I need to tweak the radius in the corners, and the size of the bracket holding the Toyota lights. I'll probably make some templates for fastener mounting as well so nuts can be tacked on where necessary. I'll follow the fabricators advice on where bracing needs to happen, and what gauge material to use.

I think I can route the wiring for the auxiliary lights out through opening for the taillights on either side. That will require some allowance in the braces to go through.



This thing followed me home on Wednesday. I'm an idiot.

View attachment 2861212
The dog or the 80?
 
Welp, small change in bumper plans, but I think this makes more sense. The plate that the trailer safety chains attach to, I originally was going to put them on the bottom. I think it will be simpler if they are on top of the receiver and will give me even more space to put a foot while climbing in the back. Hopefully that edge isn't sticking out far enough to become an anus/knee ripper when walking by, or getting in/out. I'm thinking it'll give more surface area to weld as well, hopefully making it more resilient to failure. As always, I'm open to constructive criticism.

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I talked dirty to her, and her top came off....

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Or, at least her cap came off. I've got a new lid from Classic Cruisers to replace this one since some previous heathen thought adding a dopey/leaky sunroof was a good idea. This coming week I'll get them over to the body shop and hopefully he can get it and the headlight bezel painted up in short order. The gutter is perfect. No corrosion that I see that concerns me. Might tell a different tale when stripped, but I doubt it.

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Speaking of heathens..... Why? New seals are available. Put down the caulking gun before I lose the ability to resist hurting someone. I'm certain if the Nuremberg trials were taking place today, this would make the list.

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The few seals that were still in place, are supple yet, but they have cracking, so might as well replace those. 45 years was a good run.

I'll have to come up with a clever way to pick the whole top with the forklift and store it above my office safe and sound. It'd be fun to take it off from time to time. I'd have to figure out mirrors, and that ruins my idea of putting speakers in the doors as well.
 
Right now it'd be super easy to yank the roll bar and have it powdercoated. Same with the rear seat frames. I've got new seat covers too. Hmmm, might be a project for next week.
 
The rear bumper looks great. I'd leave it as is. :)

Enjoyed reading through your thread.

Thank you.
I'm pretty happy with it. If I can squeak some time out this week, I'd like to run the prototype to the fab guy and see when they can get at it.

Trying to contribute as best I can on information, ideas, and humor. "An idiot buys a Landcruiser" might've been a better title though. 😆
 
Working on a switch panel to go in the console.

I need switches for:
-Heated Seat Driver
-Heated Seat Passenger
-Interior Light(s)
-Reverse Lights
-Center Driving Lights
-Outside Driving Lights

That's six switches, figured space for two spares wouldn't hurt anything.


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I think it's kinda cool. I was going to cut it out of the same material I made the mirror mounting brackets from. Pretty sure I'm going to have to cut some pockets out of the back side so the switch grippy thingies will hold. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it though.

Might have my rear bumper sometime soon. We'll see.
 
Ran a test in mdf. Turned out pretty good. I need to offset the tool that cuts the bevel when stepping the depth of cut, then come back with a final pass at full depth. Other than that, I'm pretty dang happy. I'll need to order some switches, verify the size of the switch, and the hole needed, then I should be good to go.

I didn't cut the backside at all. It'll take some thinking with the software I used to make the flip operation go smoothly. I've never done it with that program.

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Here you can see the snafu with stepping the depth with the angled tool.

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I'm super happy with how the lettering turned out. I'm going to paint those on the final. Probably white or silver, then just block sand the face so the paint is just left in the letters.

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