Did you have to drill the fender to attach the turn signal or did it work with the existing hole? Looks great and I'm going to go against the grain and say weld up the side marker light hole... As my signature says... Simple is usually right.
Builds My New Project
- Thread starter NikP
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- #142
It had to be drilled and the hole expanded to accommodate the rubber boot. To go back to stock will require welding.
I'm torn. Cleaner line without marker. I'm not sure I'm too concerned with stock look since I've got the GM5.3L and other enhancements. I seem to get into these things and regret not doing something when it was easier.
I'm torn. Cleaner line without marker. I'm not sure I'm too concerned with stock look since I've got the GM5.3L and other enhancements. I seem to get into these things and regret not doing something when it was easier.
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- #143
I've been making what seems like no progress lately. Bondo, sand, prime, repeat.
I switched gears to plumb my fuel lines and position my fuel pump. When I had my tank cleaned I had two bungs welded on. One for feed and one for return. Went together very nice.
I'm thinking about trying to get it running so I can move it around easier and worry about paint later. I painted my 40 then put it together and got it running but the 55 requires so much more body work that delays my satisfaction.
I switched gears to plumb my fuel lines and position my fuel pump. When I had my tank cleaned I had two bungs welded on. One for feed and one for return. Went together very nice.
I'm thinking about trying to get it running so I can move it around easier and worry about paint later. I painted my 40 then put it together and got it running but the 55 requires so much more body work that delays my satisfaction.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
What is that eerie green light in your gas tank? You fixin' to run her on martian fuel?
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- Thread starter
- #145
That's the glow of the flux capacitor.
Hey saw your shifter. Could you tell what length and style shift lever you went for wanting to do the same for a turbo 400 Trans. Looking good by the way.
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- #148
Lokar 16 inch single bend. Wouldn't you know it, I cleaned the garage last weekend and tossed the box so I don't have the exact part number.
Thanks, that's all the info I need will be able to find one that suits now
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- #150
Not much time in the garage lately but I did run across some used 35 inch tires so it was enough to get my stock wheels powder coated. $50 per wheel an they look new.
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- #151
Mounted
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- #152
Straightening out the roof.
Previous owner said his neighbor stood on it so I pushed it all back out. Several hours working with the shrinking disc and I got most the oil can effect cured.
A skim coat of filler and then started sanding. File, sand, repeated... More work ahead but the first sanding seems better than I expected.
That's a lot of work and messy, too. You got it looking good. You going to spray it yourself?
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- #154
Yes most likely. My mind just cant seem to come to grips with paying some the prices they want to spray it.
I've always looked at this things in a price comparative way (of course this assumes my time has no value)... I can screw it up about 2.5 times before I theoretically start to lose money.
I sprayed my 40 and a dozen or so cars when I was in high-school (years ago) so not too worried. My 40 was the first car I sprayed with 2-stage paint so the clear-coat was a learning experience.
Ron, Was your paint a single or two-stage spray? I'm planning to be similar. I'm thinking army green from the 2011 FJ Cruiser special edition
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/291678513336391533/ and then instead of the Cygnet white, something a bit warmer. Something with a little more tan/cream color to it. I'm not a white fan but want to stay two-toned since this gives the 55 a good look.
Mine is a two stage paint. The white is actually a 50's Dodge truck color called Sand Dune White. If you put Cygnus White next to it, you can see the difference. Hard to tell on the computer, but I wanted something a little creamy looking. 
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- #156
10 hours and the picture looks the same as last week.
Apply, sand, repeat, and repeat, and repeat, and repeat.
Apply, sand, repeat, and repeat, and repeat, and repeat.
When I have been doing the bondo thing I was always wondering if I was doing it wrong, because I keep repeating and repeating. I guess I am not the only one. I finally got to the point where "that'll do" became acceptable.
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- #158
I can't figure out how I still find low spots when I put it on multiple times and sand with a long board. Just hard to know how deep it's being applied. I guess its better to go a little at a time. I'm afraid of putting it on too thick for fear I have to sand it forever to get down to where it's perfect. I end up sanding forever anyway.
Keep in mind that it is the roof. Unless you have a bunch of 7 foot tall friends with a keen eye, no one is going to see it. At least that's what I told myself after going through the same ordeal as you. If you want to get really frustrated, buy a can of guide coat. Then you will really see how far you still need to go to get it all straight.
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- #160
I've got guide coat but I was thinking it would indeed be insanity so it's still on the shelf .... I don't have many 7 friends so I am approaching the point where "that'll do".
