Are you welding leaf springs together? I can’t actually figure out what you are doing.
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You don't weld Springs period. I'll Splain it! He took main leafs from a 60 series because they're the same width as the 55s, took the springs from the 60s and cut the wraps off each (where the bushings go. ) then added them to the 55s spring packs. I believe this is correct. @NikP will correct me if I missed anything
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@bobm you nailed it!You don't weld Springs period. I'll Splain it! He took main leafs from a 60 series because they're the same width as the 55s, took the springs from the 60s and cut the wraps off each (where the bushings go. ) then added them to the 55s spring packs. I believe this is correct. @NikP will correct me if I missed anything
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Thanks for the leaf spring walk thru info, pics, and diagram.. I'm exploring options for my rear leaf springs and don't want to move my rear perches,. I've got an order in for a pair of rear Dobinson's and they are bolt in.. I'm a plan B and C person and reading this makes sense to me.A quick update after driving around town for a bit. Ride is firm and with washboard roads the springs absorb where the previous springs just enabled the whole vehicle to bounce.
Ride height changed 1 3/4 front and 1 1/2 rear.
I’ve attached a sketch to outline exactly what pieces combine to make the final front and rear spring pack. The pink highlights are the pieces from the stock 55 spring.
@RUSH55 it’s raining so my photo shoot got canceled. Keeping you in suspense.
View attachment 2763565
Yes, the OME center pin is used. It's plenty long enough. The 03's are plenty firm. I'd be worried anything more rigid will give a buckboard ride.Two questions.. 1. what rear center pin did you wind up using, the OME bolt that came w the 60 leafs?
2. OME has 3 levels of 60 front leaf spring sets.. the 03's used in this setup are the least rigid. what are your thoughts about using the 04's or even the 05's for the rear 55 swap??
Yeah, I'm thinking the third shot at this should be a charm. My fuel starvation is worse now than before. I start to have issues at about 5/8th of a tank or after about 160 miles. I should be able to get close to 300 miles on a tank based on calculations.@NikP , how has the fuel issue solution worked out so far?
Also curious about how your venting system is doing. Does your tank have one vent port or several tying into that line below the evap manifold?
I’ve got the one 3/8” vent now on the front of the tank and am considering adding a second vent line towards the rear of the tank before calling it done.
It's external. It's mounted in the frame rail on the driver's side behind the axle.I went back through the thread and saw mention and a couple pics on page 8 that you plumbed in the fuel pump and lines, but never found any mention of what type of pump you went with (internal or external). Where did you mount it?
What’s going on for a pre-filter?It's external. It's mounted in the frame rail on the driver's side behind the axle.
Yes this one needs an engineering drawing for sure. The tank is back in so no pictures. I wished I had studied this more up front when I had my tank cleaned. It would have been much easier to install since the tank shop cut an access hole then brazed it shut. Oh well I’ve learned a lot.Gonna need more pics to make sense of what’s going on here.
As for your future custom tank, Santa didn’t make good on the plasma cutter or the TIG welder, so it’s gonna take longer now!![]()
Pro-tip...Santa must have supply chain issues. I was dreaming about a plasma table. Hmmm … or maybe I was naughty last year.