Builds My New Project

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

cool build, the FJ60 steering box pics are very helpful! Curious to see your front driveline clearance with the auto trans pan....mine is close
 
cool build, the FJ60 steering box pics are very helpful! Curious to see your front driveline clearance with the auto trans pan....mine is close

Mine is close also! In theory, if it clears on the top side, there's not much movement to worry about. We will see.

I'm going to ask when I have the driveline work done of they have an option with a smaller diameter CV-type joint. I clocked the front driveline for a CV at the transfer case but Not sure how it'll work out.
 
Mine is close also! In theory, if it clears on the top side, there's not much movement to worry about. We will see.

I'm going to ask when I have the driveline work done of they have an option with a smaller diameter CV-type joint. I clocked the front driveline for a CV at the transfer case but Not sure how it'll work out.


I didn't realize how wide a Auto trans pan was when I ditched my SM420 stuff to put in a TH350.

I might go down this road: Two piece front drive shaft in a FJ55 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

IMAG0704.jpg



IMAG0703.jpg
 
Seem like lots of work. By the time I get to the front driveshaft I may be retired.

Then I'll have time. (In theory).
 
Yeah, I don't know about the time thing, but at least you'll have a smile on your face. Don't they notch the pan and use a small diameter tube for the driveshaft.
 
More prime, sand, repeat.

My paint guy was pissed at the body man. He spent more time working on the roof. Not sure why because to see it you have to be 7ft. tall.

It all started with dropping by the paint supply store and taking a look at the owners perfect paint job on a late 60s Mercury cougar.
 
You better have talk to your paint guy or your body guy or.. oh never mind, neither one will listen! :) My roof's not perfect either, all my friends are short.
 
Yep, too many voices in my head and no one listening.

Proof : I bought a pig.
 
More prime, sand, repeat.

My paint guy was pissed at the body man. He spent more time working on the roof. Not sure why because to see it you have to be 7ft. tall.

Talk to your fab guy and see if he'll build a roof rack to make your body and pint guy happy.
 
Talk to your fab guy and see if he'll build a roof rack to make your body and paint guy happy.

My fab guy has seen the racks you and Lil'John have built and he says "screw that, he can't compete with you guys"! He's not worthy to be in the same league.
 
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
My paint guy quit early today. This time frustrated with the the fab guy.

He was frustrated with the door alignment which causes the door to hit the fender when opened. After thinking this through he thinks the fab guy shouldn't have welded metal between the original cracked metal off the door and the hinge.

So the extra metal can be compensated for in the closed position by positioning the hinge a small amoun to the fron. Of the vehicle, when the door is opened it hits the fender. Seemingly caused because the hinge is position toward the front.

Thoughts anyone. I hate to go back to the fab guy, but I think I need to. The base of the hinge isn't thick enough to just mill it down to make up the difference.

Am I missing something? I've fought with door alignment forever. You can see my pencil mark wher I just want to notch it and move on but the door line would look really pathetic.



The paint guy then moved on to shooting a test panel to confirm paint colors. Both
Toyota colors. Army green from FJ Crusier and quicksand from a 4Runner.

image.jpeg
 
Last edited:
View attachment 1212522 View attachment 1212523 My paint guy quit early today. This time frustrated with the the fab guy.

He was frustrated with the door alignment which causes the door to hit the fender when opened. After thinking this through he thinks the fab guy shouldn't have welded metal between the original cracked metal off the door and the hinge.

So the extra metal can be compensated for in the closed position by positioning the hinge a small amoun to the fron. Of the vehicle, when the door is opened it hits the fender. Seemingly caused because the hinge is position toward the front.

Thoughts anyone. I hate to go back to the fab guy, but I think I need to. The base of the hinge isn't thick enough to just mill it down to make up the difference.

Am I missing something? I've fought with door alignment forever. You can see my pencil mark wher I just want to notch it and move on but the door line would look really pathetic.



The paint guy then moved on to shooting a test panel to confirm paint colors. Both
Toyota colors. Army green from FJ Crusier and quicksand from a 4Runner.

View attachment 1212524
Looks like you are a little tight on the gap across from pencil mark. File a little out of fender and door.
 
NikP,

I'm with Bob.

I welded in hinge support plates on my doors and don't have that problem. I can't offer any good advice, but can't the fender move some. It's not going to take much. I'm starting to accept the idea of it's " Just a four wheel drive " and like you, fix the problem and move on.

I say, let's remember why we're building them and get on with it. let's go camping, fishing, hunting, four wheeling, because time is ticking away.

Phew...glad I got that off my chest! :) By the way, I'm waiting for the paint to dry on the winch, I nicked it today working on the bumper!

Just having some fun... Like your colors, I see you decided to go two tone.
 
You need to adjust the top of your door in, the fender should be proud and the door should be just inside looking from the front. From your photo it looks like your door is proud. loosen the hinges at the door not the jam and push it inward.


Don’t worry about the window frame until after you get the lower half of your door adjusted. Closing it on a folded towel to bend outward or a slight push to bend it inward is all it takes to get the frame were you need it.
 
Can someone post a picture of a front door opened? I know I'm close but want the satisfaction of seeing one before I lose my senses.

Thanks JMack I'll give it some more.

Ron, I know it's just a 4x4 but my mind somehow thinks it's a show car. The war within! You should have see me the day my 40 showed a rust bubble 4 years after getting back on the road. I'm resisting the urge to not do another body off job to repair it!
 
Here's some of mine. It's close, but doesn't touch. The fender has some Lizard Skin or Monstaliner showing on the edge also. I couldn't get the door to stay at that spot without closing or I would have gotten a better angle.

IMG_3136.JPG


IMG_3135.JPG
 
Thanks Ron. I was looking for a picture higher on the door. In that spot I have good clearance. I straightened the metal at the top and now think it should be bent for clearance. (I need to give up on show car gaps and lines)

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom