I wish my body guy would of put that kind of effort into mine...
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cool build, the FJ60 steering box pics are very helpful! Curious to see your front driveline clearance with the auto trans pan....mine is close
Mine is close also! In theory, if it clears on the top side, there's not much movement to worry about. We will see.
I'm going to ask when I have the driveline work done of they have an option with a smaller diameter CV-type joint. I clocked the front driveline for a CV at the transfer case but Not sure how it'll work out.
More prime, sand, repeat.
My paint guy was pissed at the body man. He spent more time working on the roof. Not sure why because to see it you have to be 7ft. tall.
Talk to your fab guy and see if he'll build a roof rack to make your body and paint guy happy.
Looks like you are a little tight on the gap across from pencil mark. File a little out of fender and door.View attachment 1212522 View attachment 1212523 My paint guy quit early today. This time frustrated with the the fab guy.
He was frustrated with the door alignment which causes the door to hit the fender when opened. After thinking this through he thinks the fab guy shouldn't have welded metal between the original cracked metal off the door and the hinge.
So the extra metal can be compensated for in the closed position by positioning the hinge a small amoun to the fron. Of the vehicle, when the door is opened it hits the fender. Seemingly caused because the hinge is position toward the front.
Thoughts anyone. I hate to go back to the fab guy, but I think I need to. The base of the hinge isn't thick enough to just mill it down to make up the difference.
Am I missing something? I've fought with door alignment forever. You can see my pencil mark wher I just want to notch it and move on but the door line would look really pathetic.
The paint guy then moved on to shooting a test panel to confirm paint colors. Both
Toyota colors. Army green from FJ Crusier and quicksand from a 4Runner.
View attachment 1212524