Builds My new '79 FJ40 build thread (1 Viewer)

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I test fit the driver seat with the stock sliders and I just don't fit.

I'm going to have to put the PO extended sliders back on.
So I prepped them for reinstall. I had previously cut out the rear weld on the slider to get the rear seat bolt out so I drilled it out to 7mm then taped it to M8x1.25 thread. Jenky but it works.

Gave them a respray too.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Put the new spare on and added an Alphalock.

Also replaced the courtesy lamp.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Don’t the smitty built seats have their own custom sliders?

They may have at some point but I picked these up 2nd hand and they had Jeep CJ7 brackets attached to them.

The driver seat had a narrow slider and the passenger side had a fold and tumble mechanism.

The captive nuts in the seats lined up with these jeep brackets. Which were too narrow to use the Landcruiser sliders.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Driver seat reinstalled with extended seat brackets. So much more room now.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Well found the rear brake leak,
Right rear forward cylinder.

Pads fell off when I pulled the drum.

The paper gasket was still on the axle hub. Guessing that was original

Both drums measure out to 289mm. The max is 292mm

Luckily, I have a second set of rear brakes off another 1979.

No leaks in the cylinders at time of removal but they are both also exactly at 289mm also.

Is it worth turning any of these at the machine shop and running vs buying new drums?

 

[wimberosa]

Off topic...but I keep seeing your seats and the additional pad underneath them and am super envious. I'm talking about the floor pad with the
buckles under the sliders and apron that goes down beside the seat. Is this original? Man I wish I could find something like that for the '79

 

[pb4ugo]

Well found the rear brake leak,
Right rear forward cylinder.

Pads fell off when I pulled the drum.

The paper gasket was still on the axle hub. Guessing that was original
View attachment 3877018View attachment 3877019

Both drums measure out to 289mm. The max is 292mm

Luckily, I have a second set of rear brakes off another 1979.

No leaks in the cylinders at time of removal but they are both also exactly at 289mm also.

Is it worth turning any of these at the machine shop and running vs buying new drums?

Probably. The shop should be able to confirm. I doubt they will have to cut 1 1/2mm out of them, unless they are gouged or out of round.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Off topic...but I keep seeing your seats and the additional pad underneath them and am super envious. I'm talking about the floor pad with the
buckles under the sliders and apron that goes down beside the seat. Is this original? Man I wish I could find something like that for the '79

Yes those were original on all the late models 40's with the gas tank underneath the body.

That are out there, I see them every once in awhile for sale.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Probably. The shop should be able to confirm. I doubt they will have to cut 1 1/2mm out of them, unless they are gouged or out of round.

Upon closer inspection, the spare set I have had deep grooves and was wavy with some deep corrosion on one. The leaky right rear drum had some deep gouging too. Only one out of the these was in really good shape. That was on the left rear

I got a good deal on a pair from my local Toyota dealer and they'll be here Monday morning.

Might take these into the machine shop when I get my flywheel resurfaced on the 60 and see what they say.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I ordered some cup/seal kits for the cylinders from @cruiseroutfit

Going to take all off these apart, clean and inspect and use the best of each pair of cylinders to rebuild with the new cups/seals

 

[SteveH]

The paper gasket was still on the axle hub. Guessing that was original

Keep the paper gasket you found inside. I found that without it, my rear drums interfered with the backing plate and the wheel would not turn - but only after you tightened all the lug nuts and thought you were done with the project. I ordered new gaskets from the dealer several years ago.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

The paper gasket was still on the axle hub. Guessing that was original

Keep the paper gasket you found inside. I found that without it, my rear drums interfered with the backing plate and the wheel would not turn - but only after you tightened all the lug nuts and thought you were done with the project. I ordered new gaskets from the dealer several years ago.

That gasket or what was left of was toast. I cut it off in pieces with a razor blade.
For what it's worth the driver side didn't have the gasket. And that was the better of the 2 of my drums, it also didn't have a leaking cylinder

Edit - Is this the gasket you are referring to?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Apparently that gasket goes with this...

My 40 didn't have these. Perhaps a PO removed them?

Edit- These are in fact on the inside of the axle hub.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

View attachment 1689772 I’ve been working on the drivetrain recently and wondered if it’s worth taking the studs out of the rear axles to be zinc plated and also this backing plate thing. Then I noticed a gasket in between the two. If this a serviceable part? Is it even available?

The paper gasket was still on the axle hub. Guessing that was original

Keep the paper gasket you found inside. I found that without it, my rear drums interfered with the backing plate and the wheel would not turn - but only after you tightened all the lug nuts and thought you were done with the project. I ordered new gaskets from the dealer several years ago.

@SteveH
Ahh I get it, you were referring to the gasket on the inside of the axle flange as seen in the quoted post from another thread.

My gasket was on the outside of the axle hub flange.

I do in fact have the gasket and deflector shield on the inside of the axle hub already

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

About to redo my springs to correct a 1 1/16" cruiser lean to driver side.

I have leafs I pulled from my Dobinsons 60 series packs, last year.

What say you suspension gurus on which to use? @Ol Yeller @RevISK

This is the rear left side.
The shorter leaf is 11 1/2" and the longer one is 16"

My plan is to use either one of these on the left side spring packs in conjunction with the 3/8" spacers on the top of the right side spring packs.

I have 2 of each so I could use either one, I.e... both shorts or longs or a combination of the short up from and the longer in the back. That was the way they were in my 60 spring packs.

Here they are pictured with the front left side pack. Either would fit on top of the bottom spring in the stack, as they are both longer than the bottom spring and shorter than the next one up.

The bottom leaf installed in the spring pack is about 9" and the next one up the stack is about 18".

Any advise on what worked for others?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Finished installing new window runs & felts on the driver door and a new latch. No more rattles.
I used the city racer runs/channels and Toyota felts and latch.

Installing the lower runs was a PITA!
Pre-install the upper door window runs. Then mark on the lower channels where they end.
Then you can install the lower runs to your mark.

Don't waste time with using Windex on to install these runs in the channels, it doesn't work. Lots of Dawn dish soap and water is required, a screw driver and a long piece of metal with an edge are necessary to tap these in. For the fixed door mounted channel, trim the back lower edge of the run with a razor blade at a 30 degree angle. This is needed to feed it into the top of the channel. You can't get a good angle on it to feed it in without this.

The CityRacer lower channels are very, very snug. I wasn't expecting this based on watching the 40 channel dude on YouTube. The ones he used must have not fit as snug as these because he merely pushed them in by hand.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Fixed the rear door handle rattles with a new handle, brass bushing and top and bottom striker plates.

I used the Ace bushing referred to earlier in the thread. Since my door hole was elongated from years of wear, I elected to drill it out and file to fit the bushings 15mm OD.

The inner ID of 12mm for the handle shaft fit perfectly. Used some Sil-Glide on the inner bushing.

Works perfectly now.
Now to fix the upper left side latch pin. It has a small amount of play in it.

When this all gets pulled for paint, I will thread the end of the brass bushing for a collar nut. The inner door hole for the handle shaft could use a brass bushing too, to shore up any future movement too.

 

[RevISK]

I am far from being a guru of suspension. If you are correcting cruiser lean, adding a spacer to the high side works to a degree.

You might have meant to tag @OlYellr if you are grouping me with anyone and suspension.

We both had major issues with Dobinsons.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Yeah, I have the Toyota 3/8" shim plates already. They correct approx. 11/16" of the lean. Still short an inch on the driver side, unloaded. Once I get in it's pretty pronounced.

 

[RevISK]

Yeah, I have the Toyota 3/8" shim plates already. They correct approx. 11/16" of the lean. Still short an inch on the driver side, unloaded. Once I get in it's pretty pronounced.

What spring packs are in there now?
Over an inch seems significant. Did they settle that way or start that way?

The D-word springs on mine went off kilter quickly and just sitting there doing nothing. Arches were the same to start and they are not sided.

OME are sided for the 40’s, yeah?
Not what want to hear but you might try swapping sides first.

Pardon if you covered this before, not much space available in the head.