You are doing some great work.
Builds My new 60 rebuild thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter S.CarolinaFZJ80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #83
So I've been driving this daily for the past week working out issues.
It has started dieseling after turning off the ignition after shutdown.
I changed out the spark plugs last summer. They were NGK BPR5EGP, it's what NGK called a stock plug.
They fouled up pretty quickly
Fast forward to this week, I swapped out the plugs for the old cleaned up BPR5EGP plugs. The first couple shutdowns, the dieseling went way but soon came back.
These iridium plugs were originally gapped to .038 out of the box.
I pulled the plugs again after about 100 miles they were sooty but not oily. I guess my valve seals are still in good shape. Here are pics of #1 & #2 (3 thru 6 looked the same).
So I cleaned them again with gasoline and a fine brass brush but this time I re-gapped them to .032. The gap called for in the manual.
The re-gap really helped to smooth out idle and better throttle response & power but I am still getting the dieseling/after run after turning the ignition off still.
Thinking carb related and/or fuel pump diaphram and/or PCV circuit is pulling fuel vapor into the hot cylinder at shutdown.
Any ideas? Or has anyone had similar experience?
Thanks
It has started dieseling after turning off the ignition after shutdown.
I changed out the spark plugs last summer. They were NGK BPR5EGP, it's what NGK called a stock plug.
They fouled up pretty quickly
Fast forward to this week, I swapped out the plugs for the old cleaned up BPR5EGP plugs. The first couple shutdowns, the dieseling went way but soon came back.
These iridium plugs were originally gapped to .038 out of the box.
I pulled the plugs again after about 100 miles they were sooty but not oily. I guess my valve seals are still in good shape. Here are pics of #1 & #2 (3 thru 6 looked the same).
So I cleaned them again with gasoline and a fine brass brush but this time I re-gapped them to .032. The gap called for in the manual.
The re-gap really helped to smooth out idle and better throttle response & power but I am still getting the dieseling/after run after turning the ignition off still.
Thinking carb related and/or fuel pump diaphram and/or PCV circuit is pulling fuel vapor into the hot cylinder at shutdown.
Any ideas? Or has anyone had similar experience?
Thanks
My bet would be something in the carb continuing to fuel/leak after the fuel pump quits. Maybe check wiring at the idle control solenoid in case it stopped working
- Thread starter
- #85
Idle solenoid sounds to be working (click) when ignition is turned on and again when IGN is turned off.
Last edited:
Fantastic - Thank You
- Thread starter
- #87
Float bowl is not half filled but the carb looks clean all be it a bit sooty along with the air filter.
.
hi , mr. S.Carolina FJ80
how come there is a #1 cast on both your venturis '
.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #89
The dieseling was in part due to the idle control solenoid on the carb.
The old o-ring disintegrated when removed. So I ordered new rings and gaskets.
Installed a new crush gasket too.
I have a spare 60 carb that I robbed the idle solenoid from and also added an aftermarket solenoid to the bag. Now I have a trail spare kit for the glove box.
The old o-ring disintegrated when removed. So I ordered new rings and gaskets.
Installed a new crush gasket too.
I have a spare 60 carb that I robbed the idle solenoid from and also added an aftermarket solenoid to the bag. Now I have a trail spare kit for the glove box.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #90
Added some 70 series fog lights from @Cruiser Cult and wired them up with a spare PIAA 510 kit that I had laying around.
Currently using the PIAA switch until I can repurpose my spare rear defrost switch.
Currently using the PIAA switch until I can repurpose my spare rear defrost switch.
Love those lights the Cruiser Cult dudes sell.
Here’s another switch idea:
Here’s another switch idea:
- Thread starter
- #92
Prepping for my suspension install.
Cleaned up the front end and replaced the tie/relay rod ends and replaced the steering stabalizer
Cleaned up the front end and replaced the tie/relay rod ends and replaced the steering stabalizer
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #93
I uncovered the original markings on the springs too. Other assembly paint marks from the factory revealed them selves on the Pittman arm and sway bar brackets
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #94
I am on the hunt for the front skid plate too.
It's pictured here between the frame rails in front of the steering stabilizer. (Pics borrowed from mud).
If any one has one to spare please let me know.
It's pictured here between the frame rails in front of the steering stabilizer. (Pics borrowed from mud).
If any one has one to spare please let me know.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #95
That's a great idea. I might go that way if I don't end up adding a hand throttle
Cruiser Cult
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #97
Thanks. I agree.Those look so good!!
Thank you for the support!
Appreciate you selling these.
Did you come across any covers yet?
I've never seen stock springs that clean!
Cruiser Cult
Supporting Vendor
We had a pair come in a couple weeks ago but I haven’t had a chance to check them out. Let me see if they have the covers.
- Thread starter
- #100
Great! Thanks. Let me knowWe had a pair come in a couple weeks ago but I haven’t had a chance to check them out. Let me see if they have the covers.
