Builds My build thread (1 Viewer)

[Sd1975]

Here is the finished product! Super happy with it and it feels so much stronger with all the cooler air! I want expecting an increase in performance really, just lower egt's, but wow! 2 hour drive home in a strong headwind and I could maintain 100kph with much lower egt temps! Cant wait to start fiddling with tuning.
Gotta work out a couple bugs. Seems like I'm getting a little cavitation in pump still. Super big pain in butt to get all the air out, but then again I dont really know what I'm doing lol. Have pump hooked up to ACC circuit under hood with 15 amp fuse. Would rather it only come on when engine is actually running though.
Here's a few pics!

 

[Nas90tdi]

Looks great.
You will have far less air issues if you put the pump at the bottom of the system similar to this and the fill at the top. Preferably above everything else.
I actually put a tee in at the water inlet on the back of my intercooler and ran a hose up a few inches with a cap on it. Filled from there. Never a drop of air in the system.

 

[Sd1975]

I almost put mine there too dangit! Fill tube on IC is a great idea too!

 

[Sd1975]

What pump are you using? Mine runs nonstop on a 15 amp. If you are using the Bosch pump, that is all that is required. 30 amp seems way over sized, so not much protection for the pump if you short a wire.

Yes bosch pump. I'll just leave it wired up to 15 amp then. Thank you for all the help!

 

[Sd1975]

Anybody have any links to a 2.5 inch CT20 outlet flange for a down pipe? Wanting to move forward with 2.5 inch exhaust but I'm sure the outlet diameter on factory setup is only 2 inch. Any help is appreciated. I'd just take it off and have a custom one made but this is my daily and I dont really want it down while I'm waiting

 

[AirheadNut]

Try eBay AU, I believe there are some CT20 outlet flanges for sale there.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Anybody have any links to a 2.5 inch CT20 outlet flange for a down pipe? Wanting to move forward with 2.5 inch exhaust but I'm sure the outlet diameter on factory setup is only 2 inch. Any help is appreciated. I'd just take it off and have a custom one made but this is my daily and I dont really want it down while I'm waiting

Intercooler looks excellent!! Glad you're happy with it!

There used to be dump flanges on ebay.com, but don't see any there now. Here's one available from Oz:

123752959709 for sale | eBay

Find great deals on eBay for 123752959709. Shop with confidence.

www.ebay.com.au

 

[Sd1975]

Thanks man I appreciate it. Still havent done any tuning but will soon. Havent had time. Thank you for sending that link, however it says it cant find it lol

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks man I appreciate it. Still havent done any tuning but will soon. Havent had time. Thank you for sending that link, however it says it cant find it lol

Try this: Toyota CT20 Turbo Dump Pipe Flange - Suits Hilux Prado Surf 2LT-E engines | eBay

 

[Sd1975]

Sweet thank ya!

 

[Sd1975]

Okay guys, so I think I'm going about this tuning thing wrong. Been fiddling with it but not sure I'm doing it right. Actually, pretty positive I'm not. Posting pictures to get your input on how I have boost controller and air control valve tied in. Also, if I have things connected correctly, what are first steps to tuning? I just dont feel like I'm getting very far. Have noticed maybe a slight increase in power. Have fuel up about a half a turn.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I'll have a read through this Monday and give you some ideas. Just to busy this weekend to get the time I need to respond; sorry!

 

[Sd1975]

I'll have a read through this Monday and give you some ideas. Just to busy this weekend to get the time I need to respond; sorry!

No problem sir I greatly appreciate it. I set everything back to normal minus having the boost gauge turned up a little. Just need a little more guidance on process before I start messing with it again.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Just re-reading through your thread a bit and saw you wanted your intercooler water pump to only run when the engine is running. You can do this from the same auxiliary power box that you're getting your ACC power from. There are three circuits there I believe (constant power, ACC power, and ON power). Go with the ON power. Test with a voltmeter first to make sure you have the right one; it should just produce power when your key is in the 'ON' position.

So a half turn more fuel on the spill valve should have made a big increase in power, so somethings definitely up. You turned the screw IN for more fuel right? (OUT is for less).

Just to confirm, you're boost gauge is reading from a T at the intake manifold nipple? Make sure you've T'ed in BEFORE the little air filter thing (I see it in your picture by the fuel filter). This will give you the most accurate boost reading.

And second thing, you've T'ed in your bleed valve AFTER the little filter thing, but just before the ECU boost sensor right? One side of the bleed valve should go to the T, and the other side vented to atmosphere. It's not an IN LINE thing! (I made that mistake when I first hooked mine up)

Here is how I'd proceed with the tuning if it was me:

Turn your turbo manual boost controller adjust screw all the way in. Your engine can never provide enough fuel to damage the CT20. It'll get up to about 20psi maximum, and that will only happen when you've got the tuning perfectly tweaked. The CT20 shares the same shaft size, bushing and thrust bearing as the CT26, but the CT20 is much smaller. Thus is basically way overbuilt. They literally use the same rebuild kit. With the wastegate closed all the time, the turbo is now out of the equation.

Turn the bleed valve screw adjust in a little bit at a time until your engine goes into over boost fuel cut (you'll loose power and the check engine light will come on). Once you've hit that over boost fuel cut, slowly turn the adjust out a tiny bit at a time until you dont' hit the fuel cut. I have noticed the computer does start limiting fuel a bit even before the check engine light comes on. So you might have to turn the screw out a little bit more even. You have to use 'seat of the pants' to feel for the perfect adjustment.

Once you've done all that, you should be hitting around 17psi at least when under full load on the highway. If you want more, turn in your fuel screw on the pump another 1/4 turn. This should get you up to 19psi max on the highway. Personally I can only hit that much once in TC lock-up on the highway - in town I only get about 17psi max. If you do turn in the fuel screw more (and get more boost), you'll probably have to open the bleed valve a touch more too.

Hope that helps.

 

[Sd1975]

Just re-reading through your thread a bit and saw you wanted your intercooler water pump to only run when the engine is running. You can do this from the same auxiliary power box that you're getting your ACC power from. There are three circuits there I believe (constant power, ACC power, and ON power). Go with the ON power. Test with a voltmeter first to make sure you have the right one; it should just produce power when your key is in the 'ON' position.

So a half turn more fuel on the spill valve should have made a big increase in power, so somethings definitely up. You turned the screw IN for more fuel right? (OUT is for less).

Just to confirm, you're boost gauge is reading from a T at the intake manifold nipple? Make sure you've T'ed in BEFORE the little air filter thing (I see it in your picture by the fuel filter). This will give you the most accurate boost reading.

And second thing, you've T'ed in your bleed valve AFTER the little filter thing, but just before the ECU boost sensor right? One side of the bleed valve should go to the T, and the other side vented to atmosphere. It's not an IN LINE thing! (I made that mistake when I first hooked mine up)

Here is how I'd proceed with the tuning if it was me:

Turn your turbo manual boost controller adjust screw all the way in. Your engine can never provide enough fuel to damage the CT20. It'll get up to about 20psi maximum, and that will only happen when you've got the tuning perfectly tweaked. The CT20 shares the same shaft size, bushing and thrust bearing as the CT26, but the CT20 is much smaller. Thus is basically way overbuilt. They literally use the same rebuild kit. With the wastegate closed all the time, the turbo is now out of the equation.

Turn the bleed valve screw adjust in a little bit at a time until your engine goes into over boost fuel cut (you'll loose power and the check engine light will come on). Once you've hit that over boost fuel cut, slowly turn the adjust out a tiny bit at a time until you dont' hit the fuel cut. I have noticed the computer does start limiting fuel a bit even before the check engine light comes on. So you might have to turn the screw out a little bit more even. You have to use 'seat of the pants' to feel for the perfect adjustment.

Once you've done all that, you should be hitting around 17psi at least when under full load on the highway. If you want more, turn in your fuel screw on the pump another 1/4 turn. This should get you up to 19psi max on the highway. Personally I can only hit that much once in TC lock-up on the highway - in town I only get about 17psi max. If you do turn in the fuel screw more (and get more boost), you'll probably have to open the bleed valve a touch more too.

Hope that helps.

Thank you! So you may have shed light on my problem. My air adjustment valve is "inline" and not "T'd" in with one end vented to atmosphere. That may be causing all the probe's I'm guessing

 

[Sd1975]

Also, just to clarify. You start the process with air control adjustment screw all the way out and slowly adjust it in until you get proper adjustment?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thank you! So you may have shed light on my problem. My air adjustment valve is "inline" and not "T'd" in with one end vented to atmosphere. That may be causing all the probe's I'm guessing

That's definitely a problem.

Also, just to clarify. You start the process with air control adjustment screw all the way out and slowly adjust it in until you get proper adjustment?

You can start with it all the way out, and screw in until you hit fuel cut. Or, you can start with it all the way in, and screw it out until you're out of fuel cut. Whatever works for you.

 

[Sd1975]

Okay so I worked on it a little tonight and the difference is very noticeable, however I can only turn my fuel up about 1/4 turn before it goes into run away. Can this be tweaked with the air control valve to allow more fuel? I know you guys have been able to crank yours up about 3/4 turn. My boost is all the way up (in). Also, while playing with it I have yet to be able to get to where ecu cuts fuel and check engine light comes on. Sorry to be a pain, just trying to get it dialed in. It already runs quite a bit better, just wanna get more out of it if possible

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

OK, if your mbc (manual boost controller) is turned all the way in, and your fuel is 1/4 turn from run-away, there is nothing more you can do with those. Now you need to close your air bleed valve as much as you can before the fuel cut / check engine light.

If you're not getting that check engine light, it means your not getting beyond 14psi boost. So something is not right. You could try removing the bleed valve temporarily and having the vacuum hose just direct to the boost sensor again.

Can you tell me the maximum boost you're seeing? What are your maximum EGT's?

One more thing you can do to get more fuel is put a 2.5k potentiometer in place of the fuel resistor on the pump. Wires can be accessed at the ECU. I think you need to sort out whats going on curently before you add more variables to the equation though.

 

[Sd1975]

Prior to the bleed valve I was seeing the fuel cut. The power would cut out a little and check engine light would illuminate at about 12psi (approximately). With it set the way it is currently my boost gauge is maxing out at 15+psi with no fuel cut or check engine light