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Sd1975 said:
Any body ever replaced the "V Belt" on their power steering pump. I believe they call it vane pump. Mine is about to go and am gonna do it today. It passes over three pulleys. Is one a tensioner to loosen to be able to get old one off and new one on?
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Yup, replaced mine a couple times now over the years. That is the easiest of the belts to replace. Remove the shield under the radiator, and the tensioner pulley is easily accessible. Loosen the nut on the front of the tensioner pulley, then loosen the tension bolt. Remove belt, replace with new one. Tighten tension bolt, tighten pulley nut. Re-install shield.

Also, that shield has a couple of bendable metal hoops that hold auto trans hoses in place. Just reach up and bend them open to get the hose out to remove the shield.

I'm trying to remember now if that is the outer most belt on the crank. If it's not, you'll have to get other belts out of the way first. If you end up having to do that, just replace them with new ones too.....
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Yup, replaced mine a couple times now over the years. That is the easiest of the belts to replace. Remove the shield under the radiator, and the tensioner pulley is easily accessible. Loosen the nut on the front of the tensioner pulley, then loosen the tension bolt. Remove belt, replace with new one. Tighten tension bolt, tighten pulley nut. Re-install shield.

Also, that shield has a couple of bendable metal hoops that hold auto trans hoses in place. Just reach up and bend them open to get the hose out to remove the shield.

I'm trying to remember now if that is the outer most belt on the crank. If it's not, you'll have to get other belts out of the way first. If you end up having to do that, just replace them with new ones too.....
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Got it! Was kind of a pain in the butt lol. Hope it holds up for a little while. Belt at oreillys was a little different profile, not the full "v" shape that worn out one had. One I put on was more like other belts, kind of a tapered "u" shape
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Yup, replaced mine a couple times now over the years. That is the easiest of the belts to replace. Remove the shield under the radiator, and the tensioner pulley is easily accessible. Loosen the nut on the front of the tensioner pulley, then loosen the tension bolt. Remove belt, replace with new one. Tighten tension bolt, tighten pulley nut. Re-install shield.
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That's similar to the tension adjuster for the A/C on my PZJ75; although the adjuster is up above on mine.
 
You guys think it would be okay to run some carb/throttle body cleaner through turbo with air to water intercooler? I did this one time prior to installing the intercooler and it worked great. Even though I have mine vented to atmosphere, still seems to have oil going into intercooler. Wonder if its diminishing air flow or cooling capacity. Thought if I could break down and flush some of the oil build up it would be better. Clean it out a little
 
What are you guys running for tires on your 78's. I'm going to an event in a couple weeks and needing new tires. My LJ has a 2.5 lift with toyota two piece 15 inch steelies. I'm thinking about going up in width to 12.5, so 33x12.5x15. What are your thoughts (with pics if ya got em). TIA
 
I am running 33X10.5X15 BFG AT KO2 on mine. I have has several sets of the new KO's on different vehicles and have liked them really well.
My one complaint is that the 33X10.50 is only available in a C Load Range. So, the sidewalls are a little more flexible on the highway than I like.
But, because I had the 15" wheels my options in a 33" tire were somewhat limited unless I went wider, which I had no interest in doing. I am not in anyway unhappy with them, I just prefer a stiffer sidewall.

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I would agree with @Nas90tdi and say go with a 33x10.5. I think the skinny tire suits the 78 better, and has less rolling resistance. My first LJ78 had 32x11.5’s, and I put 235/85R16’s on my current one.
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Okay guys, so my LJ is running okay with all the mods I've done in the last year. This includes, but not limited to:
ARB rear locker
Air/water intercooler
Custom 3" downpipe and 2.5 exhaust
Tuned with manual boost controller, air control valve with boost gauge installed. Fuel turned up about half a turn.
EGT gauge post turbo
Many more things.............
Here's my question. I've recently noticed more black smoke while driving, especially during the summer when AC was on? Weird right? Once it gets up to temperature there is really none to speak of unless I am on the gas pretty hard before turbo spools up. However, I started noticing oil spray around my turbo and oil leaking out of the inlet and outlet pipes on intercooler. I removed inlet tubing and noticed quite a bit of oil inside. I tilted up my intercooler, sprayed throttle body cleaner into it and used a shop vac to blow it all out. I bet a half a cup of oil came out of my intercooler. Keep in mind the only oil source left going into my turbo is from the outlet tube coming out of the crankcase. I have my PCV vented to the atmosphere.
Is this normal? Excessive crank case pressure forcing oil past seals in turbo? Bad turbo seals? what would happen if I blocked off oil return line??????????
 
Listen for it. Likely bad seals. Bearings could be next. I’m not versed in these engines, but in my experience with other turbo engines, you have symptoms of bad seals which precipitated bearings going. Rebuild or replace.
 
Yeah, the only place that oil could be coming from is your turbo. It's likely on it's way out. Or, if you have really bad blow-by it can pressurize your crank case and push oil out the turbo seals. Just look at your valve cover vent hose and see if it's smoking like a train. Feel for how much air is coming out. Around this vintage it is normal for the turbo's to wear out on these. Many of us have bought Chinese full turbo's, or CHRA's. They have stood up well from what I've seen/experienced.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Yeah, the only place that oil could be coming from is your turbo. It's likely on it's way out. Or, if you have really bad blow-by it can pressurize your crank case and push oil out the turbo seals. Just look at your valve cover vent hose and see if it's smoking like a train. Feel for how much air is coming out. Around this vintage it is normal for the turbo's to wear out on these. Many of us have bought Chinese full turbo's, or CHRA's. They have stood up well from what I've seen/experienced.
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I do have some blow by but it doesnt smoke like a freight train. Seems like it varies depending on how hard or easy I drive it and outside temp. Sometimes i can't even see it when i look under vehicle, other times i can. When I can it resembles steam coming out and usually when its 90+ degrees outside. I suppose a new turbo would be the cheapest route to go before I tear into engine. I guess in that case, rings would be the culprit?
 
Sd1975 said:
I do have some blow by but it doesnt smoke like a freight train. Seems like it varies depending on how hard or easy I drive it and outside temp. Sometimes i can't even see it when i look under vehicle, other times i can. When I can it resembles steam coming out and usually when its 90+ degrees outside. I suppose a new turbo would be the cheapest route to go before I tear into engine. I guess in that case, rings would be the culprit?
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My engine came with compression issues (from previous owner rust damage in the rear two cylinder walls). I had quite a bit of blow-by until I put in a new short block. Those two cylinders always misfired on start-up unless I glowed 2-3 times in winter. I drove it like that for years. My crank vent was always smokeing. Under those conditions it did not push oil out the turbo seal. So if yours isn't that bad, then it's almost 100% the problem is the turbo.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
My engine came with compression issues (from previous owner rust damage in the rear two cylinder walls). I had quite a bit of blow-by until I put in a new short block. Those two cylinders always misfired on start-up unless I glowed 2-3 times in winter. I drove it like that for years. My crank vent was always smokeing. Under those conditions it did not push oil out the turbo seal. So if yours isn't that bad, then it's almost 100% the problem is the turbo.
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Okay thank you. Probably just go ahead and buy a new ct20 then. Any recommendations on manufacturer. Lots of Chinese knockoffs. Any in particular you'd recommend?
 
Sd1975 said:
Okay thank you. Probably just go ahead and buy a new ct20 then. Any recommendations on manufacturer. Lots of Chinese knockoffs. Any in particular you'd recommend?
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I think most of them are probably from the same manufacturer. I always look for the most 'sold' on ebay, and a seller who has a good rating with lots of transactions. Just remember there is a pre 1990 version and a post 1990 version. The later one is a better turbo, and has a square inlet from the manifold. Make sure you get the right one. Personally I bought a CHRA, but it did not fit perfectly; I had to do some machining to the factory clamp. I'd recommend just buying a whole new turbo. I think @JimmyPrado may have bought one?
 
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