Just re-reading through your thread a bit and saw you wanted your intercooler water pump to only run when the engine is running. You can do this from the same auxiliary power box that you're getting your ACC power from. There are three circuits there I believe (constant power, ACC power, and ON power). Go with the ON power. Test with a voltmeter first to make sure you have the right one; it should just produce power when your key is in the 'ON' position.
So a half turn more fuel on the spill valve should have made a big increase in power, so somethings definitely up. You turned the screw IN for more fuel right? (OUT is for less).
Just to confirm, you're boost gauge is reading from a T at the intake manifold nipple? Make sure you've T'ed in BEFORE the little air filter thing (I see it in your picture by the fuel filter). This will give you the most accurate boost reading.
And second thing, you've T'ed in your bleed valve AFTER the little filter thing, but just before the ECU boost sensor right? One side of the bleed valve should go to the T, and the other side vented to atmosphere. It's not an IN LINE thing! (I made that mistake when I first hooked mine up)
Here is how I'd proceed with the tuning if it was me:
Turn your turbo manual boost controller adjust screw all the way in. Your engine can never provide enough fuel to damage the CT20. It'll get up to about 20psi maximum, and that will only happen when you've got the tuning perfectly tweaked. The CT20 shares the same shaft size, bushing and thrust bearing as the CT26, but the CT20 is much smaller. Thus is basically way overbuilt. They literally use the same rebuild kit. With the wastegate closed all the time, the turbo is now out of the equation.
Turn the bleed valve screw adjust in a little bit at a time until your engine goes into over boost fuel cut (you'll loose power and the check engine light will come on). Once you've hit that over boost fuel cut, slowly turn the adjust out a tiny bit at a time until you dont' hit the fuel cut. I have noticed the computer does start limiting fuel a bit even before the check engine light comes on. So you might have to turn the screw out a little bit more even. You have to use 'seat of the pants' to feel for the perfect adjustment.
Once you've done all that, you should be hitting around 17psi at least when under full load on the highway. If you want more, turn in your fuel screw on the pump another 1/4 turn. This should get you up to 19psi max on the highway. Personally I can only hit that much once in TC lock-up on the highway - in town I only get about 17psi max. If you do turn in the fuel screw more (and get more boost), you'll probably have to open the bleed valve a touch more too.
Hope that helps.
Whatever works for you.