What kind of nuts? If they are lock nuts then roll on. If not put some lock washers on and do the same.
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tlaporte
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #162
Been a while since I had any kind of tech update. I decided to try to put the truck into the garage for a little bit. Due to hanging shelving in the rear of the old garage the truck won’t fit head-in without the top off and the windshield down. But with the top off, I figured backing in would be no sweat.
Like with so many other things on this rig, I turned out to be wrong. The uppers/backs of the jump seats were about an inch too high to clear the shelving. “No worries,” I figured. The seats themselves have long since disintegrated due to exposure and repairing or replacing is on the One of These Days list. It’s just four bolts each to remove the backs for now. I took it very carefully, with LOTS of PB Blaster, a wire brush on exposed threads and some very gentle persuasion, lest I break a bolt and have a new project on my hands! Success in that avenue, however, led to the final discovery about my not-quite-stock seats: the forward supports on each seat were also welded to the wheel well. Which brought me to this:
After we did the first one, she wanted to try and I wanted her to have the experience. She did a great job grinding out the weld and we were able to remove both seat backs and get the truck into the garage!
Like with so many other things on this rig, I turned out to be wrong. The uppers/backs of the jump seats were about an inch too high to clear the shelving. “No worries,” I figured. The seats themselves have long since disintegrated due to exposure and repairing or replacing is on the One of These Days list. It’s just four bolts each to remove the backs for now. I took it very carefully, with LOTS of PB Blaster, a wire brush on exposed threads and some very gentle persuasion, lest I break a bolt and have a new project on my hands! Success in that avenue, however, led to the final discovery about my not-quite-stock seats: the forward supports on each seat were also welded to the wheel well. Which brought me to this:
After we did the first one, she wanted to try and I wanted her to have the experience. She did a great job grinding out the weld and we were able to remove both seat backs and get the truck into the garage!
tlaporte
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- Thread starter
- #163
Not going to lie, I’m having second thoughts about keeping my split rims. I thought breaking the ring off was going to be the big headache, but I was able to accomplish that with the help of some crow bars and my son. What I found when we broke it free was not pretty:
But what really has me licked so far is that I haven’t been able to get the tire off of the wheel!
I’m not admitting defeat just yet, and I’m hoping that this is in the worst shape because it’s the spare and has a tire that’s been on it since before I owned the truck seventeen years ago. The fact that it’s a Dunlop makes me wonder if it might even be original 1983, but I didn’t look closely for any markings on it while I beat my head against it today.
But what really has me licked so far is that I haven’t been able to get the tire off of the wheel!
I’m not admitting defeat just yet, and I’m hoping that this is in the worst shape because it’s the spare and has a tire that’s been on it since before I owned the truck seventeen years ago. The fact that it’s a Dunlop makes me wonder if it might even be original 1983, but I didn’t look closely for any markings on it while I beat my head against it today.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Been around splits for years now. The spares are usually the hardest to do. The inside bead needs to be broken. Luckily I have a tire machine and have had to use it to break the inner bead on occasion. Once new tirea are on, I can change one out in 10 minutes!! Don’t give up!!
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Have access to a tractor with front loader bucket? That’s me bead buster, and I’ve done variations on this as well
last resort is to cut the tire off
last resort is to cut the tire off
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Tom
As I’m sitting here with both my shoulders hurting, waiting to feel good enough again to untorque a set of engine main bearing caps, ask yourself if the juice is worth the squeeze if you get hurt for a POS spare tire. If you think you know how to swap a tire on a split rim, you probably do.
You should have practiced on those shiny chrome ones you sold me 15 years ago!
tlaporte
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- Thread starter
- #169
Hey, those rims were powder coated! I already suffer from fears of being a poser. I don’t want folks to think I’ve had chrome on my cruiser!!!Tom
As I’m sitting here with both my shoulders hurting, waiting to feel good enough again to untorque a set of engine main bearing caps, ask yourself if the juice is worth the squeeze if you get hurt for a POS spare tire. If you think you know how to swap a tire on a split rim, you probably do.
You should have practiced on those shiny chrome ones you sold me 15 years ago!
Seriously, though, this is a bit of a personal thing for me at this stage. I feel like I start a project, hit a bump, and don’t come back to it for a few months. I wanted to get some experience with the spare before the tires I ordered came in and I move on to the four wheels on the truck. Too often I’ve found myself solving a problem in my head, and then not following through with the actual work of implementing the solution. My dad tells me it’s partly the difference between being a mathematician and an engineer. Ironic, given that he was the mathematics professor and I, ostensibly, am an engineer!
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If you want to feel like more of a mechanic, come over here and break these engine bolts loose for me!
whitey45
SILVER Star
Simple prybar to pop up the ring, then I slowly pop the ring until I can grab and pull it up and out. Camping with minimal cell svc, can go into more detail when home.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Looks like a faulty gauge or you have one very dead cylinder! If you get the same result in ither cylinders, try a new gauge.
tlaporte
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- Thread starter
- #177
Yeah. Same behavior in both cylinders I tried.
It’s a Matco gauge, but bought second hand. Called around to four local chain auto parts stores and no one has one to rent. I’ll look to see if Matco has any kind of warranty and I’ll do some research online to see how I might test the gauge—I should never rule out operator error until it’s definitely not.
It’s a Matco gauge, but bought second hand. Called around to four local chain auto parts stores and no one has one to rent. I’ll look to see if Matco has any kind of warranty and I’ll do some research online to see how I might test the gauge—I should never rule out operator error until it’s definitely not.
Spray wd40 or some sort of penetrating oil in between the rim edge & the lip of the tire. Let it soak a while, then drive over the tire itself, as close as you can to the rim. It should pop the bead off, then no need to cut. Also get yourself some tyrepliers if you are going to keep the splits. A million times easier, assuming you aren’t going to go all in on it tire machines & such.
