My Blue Beast, which is no longer blue (1 Viewer)

[S4Cruiser]

Cut it in half or drill out the center. They are supposed to have a nut on the end to hold them together. Dang PO looks to have gotten carried away with his welder

 

[tlaporte]

Cut it in half or drill out the center. They are supposed to have a nut on the end to hold them together. Dang PO looks to have gotten carried away with his welder

OK. That's what I thought it looked like, too, but I'm a novice in these sorts of things. I wonder if the PO was attempting to eliminate "play" in the handle.

 

[S4Cruiser]

OK. That's what I thought it looked like, too, but I'm a novice in these sorts of things. I wonder if the PO was attempting to eliminate "play" in the handle.

Probably. The end of one handle is squared off where it inserts into the other one then is secured with a nut. I ended up picking a less used set from Mark instead of trying to jerry rig what I had.

 

[tlaporte]

Found the other handle, which I had removed when I got the doors.

Now I see what you mean, @S4Cruiser.

 

[tlaporte]

Something that's always been a curiosity to me since I've learned more and more about the Troopy and all of the various models, and how to interpret the manufacturer's plate, is why the NorForce troopies are model HJ47RV-KCQ, where the 'V' means "Van" i.e., not a soft top.

I know that they were special ordered (somewhere around 230 of them, IIRC) and came with soft tops that were altered at least somewhat by the various Army units. I was looking through the owner's manual and noticed this:

No HJ47[LR] listed there.

And when I searched toyodiy.com for a part that should be common to all of the 40 series trucks (the PTO winch), I see the following list of variations on the HJ47:

Just hardtops and pickup trucks in that list.

I seem to recall a picture of at least a part of the order for these trucks at the docks in Sydney(?), and they were CBU without the hardtop, and I think the soft top pieces were purportedly boxed in the rear of the vehicles. I wonder why they didn't get factory roll bars to go along with the soft top bows. Wonder if the fact that none of the HJ47 models listed above came with roll bars influenced that choice.

 

[65swb45]

Looks like you're in your own little rabbit hole Tom. Maybe someone from overseas will chime in...one day.

 

[tlaporte]

The days they do move by slowly.

Spent an hour on the Troopy this weekend puzzling over some more wiring issues given to me by the PO(s).

When @65swb45 looked over the truck many years ago he noted that there was an unfused wire going directly from the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery. I've studied the wiring diagrams and I can't work out what that wire was meant to do or replace.

I took a chance and decided to remove that wire temporarily (from both ends) and then tested things. I turned the lights on and measured as the voltage on the battery slowly drained below 12V, then I started the truck and watched the voltage climbed back up to about 13.3V.

That suggested to me that the alternator is charging the battery without that wire. But even though PO's can do weird/dumb things they usually have some reason for doing what they do. @bj40green do you have any thoughts on what purpose a wire directly from the alternator to the positive side of the battery might serve?

 

[bj40green]

The days they do move by slowly.

Spent an hour on the Troopy this weekend puzzling over some more wiring issues given to me by the PO(s).

When @65swb45 looked over the truck many years ago he noted that there was an unfused wire going directly from the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery. I've studied the wiring diagrams and I can't work out what that wire was meant to do or replace.

I took a chance and decided to remove that wire temporarily (from both ends) and then tested things. I turned the lights on and measured as the voltage on the battery slowly drained below 12V, then I started the truck and watched the voltage closed my back up to about 13.3V.

That suggested to me that the alternator is charging the battery without that wire. But even though PO's can do weird/dumb things they usually have some reason for doing what they do. @bj40green do you have any thoughts on what purpose a wire directly from the alternator to the positive side of the battery might serve?

From which terminal on the alternator?

Rudi

 

[Bear]

Thomas,

Just an aside: was that just a slip of the finger when you referred to the Previous Owner(s) (PO s) as a POS ?
I think you may have coined a new way we can refer back to those folks who cause us all so much extra hard work !

 

[tlaporte]

From which terminal on the alternator?

Rudi

Terminal B.

I knew I should have gone out to the truck to check and post that information with my original question!

FWIW, all of the other wiring at the alternator appears to be stock and matches to my FSM wiring diagram.

I should also mention that over on the driver's side (RHD) the two inline 5A fuses that should go to the ammeter are disconnected. The W-L is actually disconnected, and on the B side the fuse is simply bypassed and the wires are spliced together on either side of the fuse.

And as I type that while looking at the FSM diagram, I think I see why the B+ on the Alternator was connected directly to the + side of the battery.

The heavier gauge W-L off of the B terminal of the alternator normally connects to the + side of the battery through the Fusible Link and through the B--->5A--->B--->Ammeter--->W-L--->5A--->W-L path.

Without the fuses to the alternator and without a fusible link in that location, there is no path between the B terminal on the alternator and the + terminal on the battery.

There are three fusible link wires that come off of the + terminal on the battery which I will now need to chase in order to understand if the system I have is safe at present.

 

[tlaporte]

Thomas,

Just an aside: was that just a slip of the finger when you referred to the Previous Owner(s) (PO s) as a POS ?
I think you may have coined a new way we can refer back to those folks who cause us all so much extra hard work !

@Bear, I did notice that after I wrote it and nearly commented on it. I was trying to emphasize that I bore no grudge with the immediate PO (i.e. the fellow from whom I bought the truck), but I know that he also had a PO and before that it was owned by the Army. Lord knows who did what, where and when! It does sort of fit the mood I was in when I wrote it up, though!

 

[bj40green]

Terminal B.

I knew I should have gone out to the truck to check and post that information with my original question!

FWIW, all of the other wiring at the alternator appears to be stock and matches to my FSM wiring diagram.

View attachment 1594221

I should also mention that over on the driver's side (RHD) the two inline 5A fuses that should go to the ammeter are disconnected. The W-L is actually disconnected, and on the B side the fuse is simply bypassed and the wires are spliced together on either side of the fuse.

And as I type that while looking at the FSM diagram, I think I see why the B+ on the Alternator was connected directly to the + side of the battery.

The heavier gauge W-L off of the B terminal of the alternator normally connects to the + side of the battery through the Fusible Link and through the B--->5A--->B--->Ammeter--->W-L--->5A--->W-L path.

Without the fuses to the alternator and without a fusible link in that location, there is no path between the B terminal on the alternator and the + terminal on the battery.

There are three fusible link wires that come off of the + terminal on the battery which I will now need to chase in order to understand if the system I have is safe at present.

The PO bypassed the Ammeter circuit. Not only the Ammeter circuit with the 2 x Amp fuses but also (not knowing) the fusible link from which the Ammeter reads the current. Maybe did it for testing and left it in place because it didn't make any difference.
If your alternator charges without that "alien" wire.... everything is fine.

Rudi

 

[tlaporte]

I’ve reattached that wire, because I’m not yet convinced of my multimeter skills, so I’m not 100% sure it is charging and I’m not 100% sure that it wasn’t functioning in another regard:

The first time I drove it (just in and out of the driveway) it felt like the brakes were very soft—there was much more pedal travel. That made me wonder if I had introduced a vacuum problem by removing that wire.

I think what I would like to do is really clean up and document/better understand all of the various wiring that is coming off of the B+ terminal, and maybe even get my ammeter working.

 

[65swb45]

Tom

I believe that your 2H works the same as my H did: brake booster is 100% mechanical, working off a vacuum pump on the alternator. If the alternator spins, it should make vacuum, whether or not wires are hooked to the alternator.

 

[tlaporte]

Thanks, Mark! That will help keep me from going down a rabbit hole that doesn't relate to the electrics.

I was pretty sure that vacuum was related to the alternator, but did not realize that it was mechanical and not electrical.

 

[tlaporte]

This is what my wiring looks like at the battery + terminal:

• The red is the one that goes directly to the alternator.
• The green connects to a black connector and a stock looking black wire.
• The three small wires are labeled "FUSIBLE LINK"
  • two of which are connected to a heavier gauge, stock-looking black wire
    • I confirmed that this is attached to Glow Plug Relay #2, i.e., RELAY, GLOW (SUB)
  • the third is spliced to a black wire and a WL wire, which enters the white/brown connector that (I think) ultimately goes to the two 5-amp fuses on the ammeter circuit.
    • The WL is actually the heavier gauge wire that goes to the alternator, which suggests that the unfused red wire connected directly to the alternator over the engine is redundant.
• The WL wire goes to the other part of that same connector.
• Then there is the big blue wire which goes to the starter, and finally the yellow wire which was for a relay for since disconnected driving lights.

I've looked over a few threads where @lostmarbles has documented the wiring in his truck, but I'm still a bit confused on whether or not
(a) any of this is safe and
(b) how it should be, particularly with regard to fusible links.

 

[tlaporte]

In the EWD for this truck, there are two separate pages that show fusible links.

On the first page, it shows a fusible link that also connects to the ammeter, which seems more or less the same as what @lostmarbles discussed in the thread on ammeters and fusible links

On the third page of the EWD is this, which shows the fusible links that connect to the Glow Plug Relays and the EDIC Relay, as discussed by @bj40green in the thread titled What Ratings For A HJ47 Fusible Link

The fusible link photo shown in that thread is this:

which appears to be part #90982-08151 (NLA)

I have a similar one, taken from what I was told was a 1982 HJ47 Ute:

It appears to have only one fusible link, rather than three. I'm assuming it would be possible to concoct a copy of the three pronged link by reusing these connectors, though I'm not sure my skills are ready to do that just yet.

 

[bj40green]

You can find info on the fusible links here: -►
Fusible Link; which one for my '78 BJ40?

Rudi

 

[tlaporte]

Random question: I just bought an RHD power steering box from @whitey45 as a first step in parts hoarding for a PS upgrade and I’ve learned that the 60-series bracket to mount the pump would go on the lower DS of the engine.

I have this bracket above the alternator on my 2H but I have no idea what it would be for. I used to think it was for a PS pump, but now I’m not sure. AC, maybe?

 

[Michael B]

That is an AC bracket. Stock H series PS brackets are on the lower right side of the engine ans usually intergrated into the motor mount. This is true wether the rig is LHD or RHD.