My Blue Beast, which is no longer blue (1 Viewer)

[bj40green]

This wiper diagram makes much more sense to me.
12V to the motor. Switch to ground.

This one is from a 60 & 70 series with Interval and makes also much more sense to me.
12V to the switch. Motor to ground.

What do you think?

Rudi

 

[bj40green]

double posting

 

[bj40green]

Triple posting.

 

[bj40green]

Quadruple posting.

 

[tlaporte]

Hi Thomas,

Do you have another diagram? I think there is an error in this diagram, especially in the wiper motor diagram.
Have a look at the wiper motor; bottom is connected to B (battery) via the L wire.
Top +2 (= high) is connected to L/B switch B to L wire. Which is plus 12V to plus 12V.
Same goes for +1 (= low) is connected to L/R switch to B to L wire. Which is also plus 12V to plus 12V.
The wiper motor is nowhere connected to ground.

Rudi

Rudi,

This is the only diagram I have. I've been studying the pictures you have posted and comparing to the one I posted and I noticed that the difference was the position of the switch inside the motor (when it is presumably not energized). This made me think of something @Stumpalama discovered in his thread about adapting an AUS-spec wiper switch to a North American FJ40, namely that the NA-spec truck's motor uses a positive ground whereas the Aus-spec truck's motor uses a negative ground.

Would that observation help explain the differences in our diagrams?

 

[tlaporte]

As far as the relay goes, I measured the terminals with my multimeter.

Here is what I found:

• Continuity across LO and LW
• ~65Ω resistance across L and LY

So what do you think of my idea that I would connect L to 12v, WB to ground and then jumper across LO and LW to run the relay's motor?

 

[bj40green]

the switch inside the motor

That's the park switch. After switching the wipers off, it keeps the motor running until the wipers are in the horizontal position. At that point the switch disconnects the the motor but also makes a short over the motor to prevent run out (after spin).

For your understanding; inside the timer relay is a timer unit that sends a pulse to the wiper motor, that makes the motor running until the park switch ends the cyclus. After so many seconds the timer relay sends another pulse to make the motor running, etc, etc, etc.
L = 12V power to the wiper relay
W/B = ground
L/Y to L/Y on the switch activates the washer when you activate the interval function (wipe/wash).
L/O to L/O on the switch is the actual interval function.
L/O = the timer output, goes into the switch, exit the switch as L/R and goes to the wiper motor (low speed).

That's my theory as long as the wiper motor is connected to ground in some way.

Toyota used two systems for wipers.
A. 12V to motor, motor to switch, switch connect motor to ground. Circuit closed.
B. 12V to switch, switch to motor, motor is grounded. Circuit closed.
When Mr. T. changed from one to the other system, the guys who make the diagrams made errors by flipping the way the power runs and that's what you see in your diagram and not in my two diagrams.

Anyway..... use an in line fuse (15Amp or so) for bench testing.

Rudi

 

[bj40green]

I updated your wiring diagram a bit.

Did you notice the second switch?

Me thinks (Jamaican English) that the word "interval" in this case means: squirt and wipe 3 times.
I don't see a single wipe function and a continuous interval wipe function (as in modern cars) in this diagram unless your switch has those functions. In that case this diagram doesn't match your (stick) switch. But maybe I'm wrong.

Buenas noches y hasta mañana,

Rudi

 

[tlaporte]

I updated your wiring diagram a bit.
View attachment 1521359

Rudi,

Does the "E" in my original diagram (presumably for "Earth"), which is connected via the W-B wire to ground, not ground the motor?

 

[bj40green]

Rudi,

Does the "E" in my original diagram (presumably for "Earth"), which is connected via the W-B wire to ground, not ground the motor?

No, sorry my mistake, I posted that picture too fast. I forgot to finish the wires around the park switch. I replaced the picture already.
That "park" switch keeps the motor going after you turned the wipers off.
When that switch reaches the gap, the motor stops. That's when the wipers are horizontal.
To prevent after spin or run out (that's what a motor does when you turn it off) that switch makes a short over the motor and the motor stops at the spot.

 

[tlaporte]

No, sorry my mistake, I posted that picture too fast. I forgot to finish the wires around the park switch. I replaced the picture already.
That "park" switch keeps the motor going after you turned the wipers off.
When that switch reaches the gap, the motor stops. That's when the wipers are horizontal.
To prevent after spin or run out (that's what a motor does when you turn it off) that switch makes a short over the motor and the motor stops at the spot.

OK. I think that I understand what you are saying about the original diagram being incorrect. Let me state my reasoning and see if that means that I do understand.

In reference to the original diagram I posted, when the switch is in the "Low" position

• +12v enters through the switch on the post labeled "B"
• +12v traverses from the "B" terminal to the "+1" terminal
• +12v exits the switch along the "L-R" wire
• +12v enters the washer wiper motor at the "+1" terminal
• +12v exits the motor across the path with the black dot and then the "B" post
• at the "B" post +12v meets an incoming +12v from the "L" wire

In other words, both sides of the motor are being fed +12v and there is no path to ground.

It would be similar for the "High" position, with the "+1" terminal being replaced by the "+2" and the "L-R" being replaced by the "L-B"

In your corrected diagram, when the switch is in the "Low" position

• +12v enters through the switch on the post labeled "B"
• +12v traverses from the "B" terminal to the "+1" terminal
• +12v exits the switch along the "L-R" wire
• +12v enters the washer wiper motor at the "+1" terminal
• +12v exits the motor across the path with the black dot and then the "E" post
• at the "E" post +12v goes to an external ground outside of the motor

Is that about right?

 

[bj40green]

That's correct but you're talking about the washer motor and you mean wiper motor.

 

[tlaporte]

That's correct but you're talking about the washer motor and you mean wiper motor.

D-oh! I updated the message to note the correction.

 

[tlaporte]

Hmmm.

I tried the wiper relay on the bench and got nothing.

1. +12v to L
2. W-B to ground
3. Jumper across L-O and L-W

So now I'm looking at the diagram above and thinking I've constructed an invalid test.

When I look at the switch and compare the "Off" position to the "Int" position, they differ in the following way:

1. "Off": +1 and S are connected and C1 and EW are connected
2. "Int": +1 and S are connected and C1 and W are connected

As best as I can tell, by switching the connections from C1:EW to C1:W, we cause +12V to traverse the LY wire to the Wiper Relay.

Looking at my relay, it appears to me that the LY post connects along the circuit board to the SPDT switch @bj40green highlighted in post #48.

My theory now is that +12V on L powers the small motor inside the Wiper Relay, while the +12V on LY powers the SPDT switch that grounds the motor and causes it to rotate.

I just tested at the harness and I did not get +12V on LY when I turned the wiper switch to "Int".

So either

1. My theory is wrong
2. There is an issue with my harness preventing +12V to get through L-Y
3. Some other possibility that I haven't considered.

 

[bj40green]

Here we go:
W/B to ground
L/Y is the command to activate/start the "interval" function. This wire must be connected to +12V in your diagram but is connected to ground in this other diagram (see below) from a 60 and 70 series. You have to test this. Mr. T. is famous for errors in wiring diagrams. Especially in the 40 series.
Don't jump L/O to L/W. This the SPDT switch that activates the motor. I think that it disconnects the "park" switch in the wiper motor and takes over that function when in "interval" mode. Clear as mud?????
L to +12V

This diagram is identical to your diagram except it has a MIST function and the L/Y wire connects to ground in the INT position.
The "mist" function in this diagram from a 60 and 70 series is the pull-the-handle for a one time sweep.

Rudi

 

[tlaporte]

So, I had a few minutes yesterday to test the relay.

I confirmed that the motor in the relay is working: I had spun the gears previously to ensure that they would spin freely, and so the gears were not sitting in the "parked" position. This was the key that I was missing the last time I tested the relay.

So, to recap:

• +12V to L
• WB to ground

caused the motor to turn until it reached the "parked" position. After that, there was no movement of the motor until I turned the gears again.

So that led me to test:

• +12V to L
• WB to ground
• LY to ground

But that did not have any effect.

Frustrated, I decided to try the relay in situ again:



Is that how they are supposed to work?!?!

 

[bj40green]

Bench test: what happens if you connect 12V directly to the motor in the wiper relay?

 

[tlaporte]

I didn't get a chance to test the bare motor, but I had a thought this morning on my way to dropping my son off at school.

When I tested the intermittent setting this weekend, I also noticed that the park function was not working on low or high. I'm wondering if the relay is meant to simply start the cycle, then it's the wiper motor's park function that is responsible for completing the cycle.

 

[bj40green]

The park function works only when you turn the wipers off. It then continuous the last wiper cycle and park the wipers in the horizontal position.
Or.... the wiper relay activates the wiper by a pulse
Or.... the wiper relay takes over the park function.
I guess your idea is valid, but then I'm wondering why there is a SPDT switch. That can be done with a single momentum switch.
We'll see how this turns out.

 

[tlaporte]

Taking a break from electricals to do some body stuff, I spent some time this weekend working on a set of soft doors I purchased last year.

Having purchased them from eBay, I did not realize that a PO had welded sheet metal on where the canvas had previous covered the lower half of the doors. So it was a bigger project than I anticipated, and I left them in the garage while I looked for time and inspiration. The long weekend provided the time (and 105F degree weather).

Here's a shot of the doors after removing the first skin:

As you can see there's a fair bit of rust along the bottoms of these doors:

I do have another set of soft doors that don't have all of the hardware and none of the weatherstripping is good on that pair. I may end up making one decent set out of the two sets I have.

I do have a conundrum with the handle on the second door.

I can't figure out how the handle is attached. From the back side image above it almost looks like it's welded in place.

Since I couldn't get it out, for the time being I hacked away the sheet metal around the handle so I could remove the bulk of it:

Any thoughts/ideas on the proper way to remove the handle?