- Thread starter
- #161
Put the winch on tonight.
My 65 FJ40 get it running and see what happens. Work in progress thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DAD2SIX
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- Thread starter
- #162
Once i bolted my side steps on there was some flex in them when you stood on them. I did not like that so I made my side steps into slider steps / roll cage tie ins. Bolted to the frame and body and roll cage. The slider is made from super heavy duty 2" x 1/4" tubing. They should not flex now.
Nice to see some more progress.You're rig looks great.Hope you are doing well
coleman2347
Ole Jarhead
Just read through the whole thread, super nice job, at first didn't think I would like the white, but I love it, great choice....
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- #165
Thanks guys.
I got the sliders painted and installed. They are rock solid.
I also got my Factor 55 winch thimble in the mail today.
I got the sliders painted and installed. They are rock solid.
I also got my Factor 55 winch thimble in the mail today.
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- #166
Took it out today
Nice!
corleykj
Jack of some, definately master of none.
That looks like a blast.
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
awesome rig and build. your rig has once again swung me in favor of white for my 40. it really is a sweet color on them.
your rig has once again swung me in favor of white for my 40. it really is a sweet color on them.
- Thread starter
- #170
Out with the old and in with the new.
- Thread starter
- #171
I got the brake booster / master cyl as well as all the hard brake lines out of a 91 4runner.
I installed the booster using an adapter from JT Outfitters to clear the firewall rib. I had to grind the front of the clutch master as well as part of the booster rib to clear. Not enough to hurt the diaphragm on the booster so I think it will be fine. It fits albeit tight but it fits. Even the stock air cleaner clears. I welded up a lengthened pushrod too. I am converting the rear to disc brakes at the same time. I got the brackets from JT as well. And the calipers and hoses & hardware from a 85 Monte Carlo and rotors from a 90 GM K1500 from The parts store.
The 4 Runner did not have a proportionating valve. I'm not sure if I will need one or not? Any idea??
I did grab one off a 95 Isuzu Rodeo (Aisin) While I was at the pick n pull. We will see. I might end up using a adjustable one if necessary.
Now it's time to start plumbing the hard lines.
I installed the booster using an adapter from JT Outfitters to clear the firewall rib. I had to grind the front of the clutch master as well as part of the booster rib to clear. Not enough to hurt the diaphragm on the booster so I think it will be fine. It fits albeit tight but it fits. Even the stock air cleaner clears. I welded up a lengthened pushrod too. I am converting the rear to disc brakes at the same time. I got the brackets from JT as well. And the calipers and hoses & hardware from a 85 Monte Carlo and rotors from a 90 GM K1500 from The parts store.
The 4 Runner did not have a proportionating valve. I'm not sure if I will need one or not? Any idea??
I did grab one off a 95 Isuzu Rodeo (Aisin) While I was at the pick n pull. We will see. I might end up using a adjustable one if necessary.
Now it's time to start plumbing the hard lines.
- Thread starter
- #172
Finally Discs on the front and back! I also put a adjustable proportioning valve, All new 10mm brake lines, took the rear end all apart and adjusted the preload. Installed new pinion seals and wheel seals and u joints that I got from cruiser outfitters. Along with some magnetic drain plugs. Now it's time to bleed the brakes and see if it all works.
Nice!
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- #174
Well it works! I about put my nose through the windshield the first time I stomped on them.
It stops sooooo good! And with such little effort. What a difference.
I was prepared for something go go wrong and not work after using so many different parts from different cars. But I bled the brakes and it just worked.
well did have to use the adjustable proportioning valve. If its not all the way reduced it will lock up the rear before the front. Once adjusted its perfect. What a cool upgrade. I highly recommend it.
It stops sooooo good! And with such little effort. What a difference.
I was prepared for something go go wrong and not work after using so many different parts from different cars. But I bled the brakes and it just worked.
well did have to use the adjustable proportioning valve. If its not all the way reduced it will lock up the rear before the front. Once adjusted its perfect. What a cool upgrade. I highly recommend it.
Awesome thread! You've done some really nice work. I'm a Dad to 4 , and you've definitely given me some encouragement that this can be done!
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- #176
Thanks! Yes it can be done.
I have been thinking about the position of the calipers. I did not like how they sat so low. I was worried they would get hit on rocks or get mud stuck in them ect. So I rotated the mounting bracket up so now the calipers are up and out of harms way. Much better now.
I also have been thinking about the wheel studs. With the conversion they just did not stick out far enough for me. So after some research on mud I found that the Dorman 610-414 is the way to go. So I installed them today as well. Much better as well.
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- #178
Thanks man
Are you afraid the relative movement between the tub and frame (by way of the body mount bushings) will cause problems with where the tub is now hard bolted to the frame via the sliders? (although I guess this is no different than your basic frame tie-ins for a roll cage...)
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- #180
I did think about that. But the roll cage needed to be tied to the frame to be safe for my family. And the rubber body mounts are 48 years old and hard as a rock. Not sure they flexed much anyway. So I went this route. Hopefully it will be ok.
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