Builds My 40 build (1 Viewer)

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Rusty 72 said:
Picked up some 5% moly grease for the birfs. Found some powdered graphite at my local ag dealer. Will put a cup or so in all the gear boxes and diffs.


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Can U Please Elaborate on the installation & Use of powdered graphite in all the gear boxes and diffs. ?

This is something i have never heard of , but sounds interesting :idea:

Can U use it with Full Synthetic GL-4 / GL-5 Gear Box & axle lube oil's ?
 
RAGINGMATT said:
Can U Please Elaborate on the installation & Use of powdered graphite in all the gear boxes and diffs. ?

This is something i have never heard of , but sounds interesting :idea:

Can U use it with Full Synthetic GL-4 / GL-5 Gear Box & axle lube oil's ?
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Back when I was in high school, late 70's, I worked part time for the local garage. I was the kid who got to do all the oil changes. If someone came in complaining about a noisy rearend or gearbox it was my job to suck some oil out and put a pint or so of the mixed graphite/oil back into it. Took a few miles but it really made a difference in the noise. All I can say about the mixed oil it was 80-90 and was in a 2 gallon container. The regular oil was in 55 gallon barrel. If you got the mixed oil on your skin you wore it for several days. Synthetic in the late 70's, never heard of it.
 
I recently received a 1981 2F back from My machine shop , The Master Machinist Spec'd this product ZDDP ,
( Zinc & phosphorous ) for the Cam & Lifter break in , I Wonder if the LUCAS Company is using Graphite in there products because a few i have used are a very dark grey ?

Have U ever heard of this product , and if so what is your opinion , Do U plan on using it on your engine coming back from your machine shop soon ...

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I am using lucas hotrod and classic oil. It should have the proper amount of zddp in it. Too much zddp is bad.
 
Painted my knobs. Will clean them up when they are dry. The white H will be for heater and red H will be for hazard switch.

I work for a small company and we are required to watch youtube safety videos. Well after I finished my video I got the brilliant idea of watching a video about Finland. The video was almost 4 hours long. Well I got a good butt chewing over that.
 
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Worked on the computer bracket. Added USB charging ports and a bit of felt. Now to figure out something to secure the computer on the bracket. Need sometimg that can be removed easily. Thought about zip ties but that kinda looks cheesy.

The cluster, I changed the volt gauge face and added a N for normal range but not especially liking it. Maybe a green area would be better. Installed a 78ish speedometer. Had to drill new holes in cluster housing so I could mount the speedo. Painted the turn signal indicators black so they would not be lite up when cluster lights were on. Now I have mph and kmh. In my mess of parts I found a good later model speedo cable. Bought a new kmh speedo from @447xpro a while back to install later. If I ever get this pile of parts running I will need to see how far off the speedo is and get a correction box for it.
 
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Well I'm just beaming with intelligence today. While driving home from work this morning I decided to look for my new locks. After looking in a couple different boxes I found the door and hatch locks. Looked at the numbers on all the locks I found the door and ign switch were just off one number. Now this is where I really start to shine. I got the idea to just remove the one pin in ign switch that was different. This will allow the door key to work in ign switch also. Took the ign switch apart, removed the pin then started to reassemble the cylinder. Installed all the springs and used a small screwdriver to compress it. I'm really shining bright now. Next thing I know everything is bouncing off the garage floor. Bummer.... After looking for quite a while I did not find any springs. Now I am short at least two springs for the brass pins and one for the detent ball. I thought no problem. There is a lock in the hatch I can get the springs from it. Removed the lock and guess what, the only spring it has is the detent ball. Now somewhere in my crap I have some locks from older Ford and GM cars. Has been at least 20 years since I have rekeyed any locks but I think GM uses similar springs on the door locks. So thats was my adventure for today.
 
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Rusty 72 said:
Well I'm just beaming with intelligence today. While driving home from work this morning I decided to look for my new locks. After looking in a couple different boxes I found the door and hatch locks. Looked at the numbers on all the locks I found the door and ign switch were just off one number. Now this is where I really start to shine. I got the idea to just remove the one pin in ign switch that was different. This will allow the door key to work in ign switch also. Took the ign switch apart, removed the pin then started to reassemble the cylinder. Installed all the springs and used a small screwdriver to compress it. I'm really shining bright now. Next thing I know everything is bouncing off the garage floor. Bummer.... After looking for quite a while I did not find any springs. Now I am short at least two springs for the brass pins and one for the detent ball. I thought no problem. There is a lock in the hatch I can get the springs from it. Removed the lock and guess what, the only spring it has is the detent ball. Now somewhere in my crap I have some locks from older Ford and GM cars. Has been at least 20 years since I have rekeyed any locks but I think GM uses similar springs on the door locks. So thats was my adventure for today.


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I always, when possible, assemble small things with springs and such inside a plastic bag. That way the little stuff can only come out one way when they go.
 
Just a couple issues with fuel tanks. Have the original 72 tank but sometime it had water in it and its rusty on the inside. Bought a used 71 tank it was supposed to be good. Removed some paint from the bottom and quite a bit of pitting. This is the tank I installed the fuel pump module in. Tried to find someone to weld on it but no luck. Looked around and found a few places that would clean and seal the tanks but the cheapest was a little over $200. Now for a more brilliant idea. I bought a new tank. The top is different than the others. Its going to be difficult at best to install the fuel pump module. If its a failure I think someone will weld it back together since it has not had gas in it. Here it is taped off and ready to start drilling.
 
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Bought LED's for the cluster. Going to redo the lettering. Thinking about painting it white, install the letters the paint it satin black and maybe a satin clear.
 
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What my thoughts for today are.....


One of my co-workers hauled off an old VW bug, washer and dry then threw some scrap metal inside the bug. He got $372. I got to thinking how much my 40 and all parts I have would be worth. Probably close to $500-600. Now if I had a trailer to haul everything to scrap my headaches would be gone.
 
74fj40 said:
You could probably rent a trailer $50. May be worth it. I consider it all the time
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I like that idea. Looks like I could have $450 in my pocket now and not be spending $500 a month on parts. That really sounds like a winner in my book. Oh......what happened to the 20K I already dumped into the 40?
 
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