My 3FE into FJ40 swap (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Curtice
- Start date
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Yes.
cold start timer - works with cold start injector
water temp sensor - THW signal to ECU for timing correction (red-wht)
Water temp switch - TWS signal to ECU for fuel line pressure up (pink)
Water temp sender - to temp gauge (green) - splice to your original wire (yellow?) that went from the temp gauge to the old sender.
water temp sensor - THW signal to ECU for timing correction (red-wht)
Water temp switch - TWS signal to ECU for fuel line pressure up (pink)
Water temp sender - to temp gauge (green) - splice to your original wire (yellow?) that went from the temp gauge to the old sender.
Curtice
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #145
It is yellow actually, so that is perfect. Splicing it in is what I figured from pappy's info, so thanks for that. Good info on all the temp stuff.
The only other wiring questions I still have (for now) is the old/unused stuff. I want to delete the old emission control computer and connection, but looks like those wires route to various places. Did you guys keep that in (even though not needed now)?
The only other wiring questions I still have (for now) is the old/unused stuff. I want to delete the old emission control computer and connection, but looks like those wires route to various places. Did you guys keep that in (even though not needed now)?
Curtice
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #147
I got worried pulling some of those wires would mess something else up (kind of like my ECU relay ground didn't work without the light switch connected).
I'll add the extra ground. Thanks for the tip. I am cleaning a lot of wires and connections that are in bad shape.
I'll add the extra ground. Thanks for the tip. I am cleaning a lot of wires and connections that are in bad shape.
Curtice
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #148
ok. Here is where I am at (which is stuck 
)
I finished all of the wiring, hooked up all everything in the truck and tested. All accessories worked, engine fired up, so I was happy. Pulled the harness out to wrap it. Did that, and put it back in. Hooked up a bunch of other things (vacuum lines, charcoal canister, cooling system). Filled the radiator and was ready to turn on the engine and let it run for a bit.
Except now I have problems. The engine will start, but only stay running for 1-2 seconds. I have read a bunch of threads on this issue, but cannot seem to track down what to do. Have followed the FSM troubleshooting, but everything seems fine (AFM, EFI Relay, etc.). Here is what I figure: its starts for 1-2 seconds because the cold start injector always squirts fuel when the key is turned. But for some reason, the other injectors are not injecting fuel. I have spark, and have confirmed fuel is getting to the injectors (unplugged the cold start banjo and turned it over...fuel spurted all over).
Check engine codes only give me o2 sensor problems, which makes sense as I do not have the exhaust pipe installed yet. But it gives no other error codes.
The one problem it may be is the circuit open relay. I tested continuity per the FSM and two of the terminals that are supposed to have continuity don't. So I ordered a new one. But I am not convinced that is it. When I bypass that relay by jumping the +B and Fp terminals in the diagnostic box, I have the same problem. I guess my question is if I bypass the relay, should the engine run? Or does that only confirm the pump works...does the engine require the relay to continue to run continuously?
Beyond that, not sure what to check next. Like I said, it ran fine when I had the harness in for testing. I can't imagine what changed. If anyone has any thoughts or has run into this problem, would appreciate any ideas.
So close...
)I finished all of the wiring, hooked up all everything in the truck and tested. All accessories worked, engine fired up, so I was happy. Pulled the harness out to wrap it. Did that, and put it back in. Hooked up a bunch of other things (vacuum lines, charcoal canister, cooling system). Filled the radiator and was ready to turn on the engine and let it run for a bit.
Except now I have problems. The engine will start, but only stay running for 1-2 seconds. I have read a bunch of threads on this issue, but cannot seem to track down what to do. Have followed the FSM troubleshooting, but everything seems fine (AFM, EFI Relay, etc.). Here is what I figure: its starts for 1-2 seconds because the cold start injector always squirts fuel when the key is turned. But for some reason, the other injectors are not injecting fuel. I have spark, and have confirmed fuel is getting to the injectors (unplugged the cold start banjo and turned it over...fuel spurted all over).
Check engine codes only give me o2 sensor problems, which makes sense as I do not have the exhaust pipe installed yet. But it gives no other error codes.
The one problem it may be is the circuit open relay. I tested continuity per the FSM and two of the terminals that are supposed to have continuity don't. So I ordered a new one. But I am not convinced that is it. When I bypass that relay by jumping the +B and Fp terminals in the diagnostic box, I have the same problem. I guess my question is if I bypass the relay, should the engine run? Or does that only confirm the pump works...does the engine require the relay to continue to run continuously?
Beyond that, not sure what to check next. Like I said, it ran fine when I had the harness in for testing. I can't imagine what changed. If anyone has any thoughts or has run into this problem, would appreciate any ideas.
So close...
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Wondering, why are you running all the emissions equipment? The 3fe runs pretty much the same with or without, less clutter too.
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
Is your fuel pump maintaining fuel pressure? I.e. is your pump running after cranking to start? Check to make sure all your grgrounds are good and you didn't miss a connection. I'd also check to make sure your injectors are firing. There is a procedure where you pull one and have it squirt into a jar to confirm operation.
Curtice
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #151
Thanks. Fuel pump is running after cranking. If I jump it so it runs constantly, I still have the same issue. I although I have not connected a gauge to test the actual fuel pressure. I do know it squirts out pretty hard though.
I have checked my grounds, but I am wondering if I missed a key ground in my wiring. I had it running before, so I don't think so.
I am pretty sure the injectors are not firing, but the question is why? I think the ECU thinks something is wrong and is not sending the signal to the injectors to fire. I will look up that procedure...I guess that is the next step. I really didn't want to take things apart to get to the injectors.
Question - if one injector fails (like clogged or something) will the engine still run, even if poorly?
I have checked my grounds, but I am wondering if I missed a key ground in my wiring. I had it running before, so I don't think so.
I am pretty sure the injectors are not firing, but the question is why? I think the ECU thinks something is wrong and is not sending the signal to the injectors to fire. I will look up that procedure...I guess that is the next step. I really didn't want to take things apart to get to the injectors.
Question - if one injector fails (like clogged or something) will the engine still run, even if poorly?
1911
chupacabra
My experience is yes - I had a 3FE-equipped FJ80, where the insulation burned off of the wires to two injectors (due to contact with the air injection rail) and shorted. The truck still ran and was even drivable, though it ran pretty rough.
Double check the AFM.
Curtice
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #154
I'll check again...when I did before resistance levels were at FSM spec. Anything else I should check for on that? Perhaps wire continuity from the AFM to the ECU?
I took the filter off to watch the measuring plate (the flap in the AFM that moves and allows airflow) as the engine starts. I was wondering if perhaps it wasn't opening and allowing air in. When starting, I can see it move, and it opens a little bit, but not very wide. Is it supposed to open wide, or not at this point since no throttle?
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
Will it run if you stay on the gas pedal?
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
And you don't get any other trouble codes? Check all your fuses. Though it sounds like something isn't functioning when you transition from a richened state to a running state. Does it just die or does it struggle when it shuts off?
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
The next logical step, in my opinion is to "ohm out" (check for continuity) in all your wires including all grounds. You could have damaged one of the wires or broken a splice while reinstalling the wiring.
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
Can't see the video...
