My 3FE into FJ40 swap

[Curtice]

Just an update post with some pics and info of my progress.

First, got the fuel system completed.

I made new hard fuel lines using the old lines as a template, then modified as necessary for the in line fuel pump (old lines next to the new ones):

Couple pics installed:

And the fuel pump along the passenger side frame rail. I would have like to installed this closer to the tank (tank outlet is underneath on the the driver side, but just could not find a good spot.).

I got a gas pedal from an early year cruiser that seems to fit perfectly. I used on existing hole from the stock pedal, and drilled a hole for the other and for throttle cable to come in:

Wiring: If you read my thread, this was where I had the most questions. The nice thing was that the engine harness came with the engine, so I didn't have to do anything there, other than modify the connection point between the harnesses (my engine harness is an 89, but the main harness I obtained was an 88...the bridge between the two was different for those years...come to that in a minute).

Like others suggested, I started with the ECU connector on the FJ62 harness and traced and tagged every wire. I then pulled those from the rest of the harness:

Organized a bit:

I then fitted against the 40 harness to get an idea on lengths, and to figure out the points in which I needed to splice the ECU harness into the main 40 harness:

I then spliced all wires in. Wired up the new switched relay as per instructions/help from the guys earlier in this thread. No pic yet, but I will post as I think it might be helpful to others (this was the most confusing part for me as a guy new at this stuff).

As for the 88 to 89 harness bridge connector. My engine harness was fitted for an 89, which has a round 5 pin connector and a separate 2 pin connector. The 88 harness had one 7 pin connector. In order to mate the two, I obtained the male end of the 5 pin connector that I needed. Then cut the 7 pin connector and joined the necessary 5 wires to the 5 pin connector:

For the two remaining green wires, I still need to connect them.

I then put all the wiring in the cruiser to test fit, and also to get a few things connect. I wanted to see if I could at least get the engine to turn over (I did - so on the right track!). This is how it is now...a bit messy still...I want to tighten up the wiring and get the lengths exact and marked before I pull the harnesses to wrap it. I also need to figure out where to put another hole in the firewall as the current one is not big enough.

Also need to get rid of the unused stuff from the 40 harness (e.g. alternator connections, carb connections, smog stuff). What did others do here? Did you just cut and cap them, or completely remove them?

 

[mdsims]

So, question: in your splices, is the center band a metal crimp? what are the red rings? I like the clear shrink, seeing the splice is great for troubleshooting. Maybe a quick rundown of your process would be nice.

Matt

 

[Curtice]

They are heat shrink solder connectors. That center band is a solder ring. Mesh the two wires together and slide the connector over. Then use a heat gun and after a few seconds, the solder starts to bubble and flows into the wiring strands. At the same time, it shrinks the heat shrink. Not sure what the red rings are, they just shrink along with the rest of the tubing.

This was the first time I did this, but the connections seem real solid, and I have good continuity...tested each splice.

I used these (they have different gauge sizes): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001H1HI5Q/?tag=ihco-20

 

[mdsims]

Checked them out, those are great. The colored band is a glue ring, takes some stress off the connection if they get pulled. Cool note, the colored glue rings correlate to standard electrical spade, splice, crimp sizes. Red being good for 18-22awg, blue 14-16 awg, etc. Makes for a clean installation. I'll have to get a set and test them out. Thanks for the information.

 

[lelandEOD]

Dude... I love the wiring connectors. Sure wish I had found those before I spent 8 weeks crimping butt connectors and fiddling with shrink tubing.

 

[pappy]

Another source for those solder/shinktube connectors: http://www.delcity.net/

 

[Curtice]

They worked well for someone like me who lacks soldering skills.

Quick question. Does anyone have pics of their heater hose routing with the 3FE?

This is what I got and where I think 2 hoses go, but not sure about one outlet pipe. Do I just t-fit it into the others?

 

[lelandEOD]

That needs to be capped off. I believe it is the pipe for the FJ62 rear heater. I have a rubber plug on mine but it's only a temporary solution as it's already cracked with ozone rot and it hasn't even been on there a year.

I'm hoping someone has a better/long term solution for the pipe cap.

 

[pappy]

There is a factory cap you can use.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks guys. i'll try to track one of those down somewhere.

 

[pappy]

One of these two. I think it's the second part number.

Port plug: 90339-16001
Rear heater port plug: 90339-13009

 

[Curtice]

Thanks much!

 

[Curtice]

Another quick question. There is an outlet on the smog pump that looks like there is a hose running from this to the air intake (see highlighted hose in pictures below). Since I do not have an intake assembly, do I need this hose...what should I do with this?

From another 3FE showing the hose routing:

 

[Stumpalama]

Another quick question. There is an outlet on the smog pump that looks like there is a hose running from this to the air intake (see highlighted hose in pictures below). Since I do not have an intake assembly, do I need this hose...what should I do with this?

From another 3FE showing the hose routing:

What is your plan for the intake? That hose just brings filtered outside air into the smog pump for injection into the cylinders through the air injection rail. You could cut down the soft hose and install an individual filter, like a valve cover filter from a chevy V8 or something of the sort.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks Stump for the explanation. I have a cone filter mated to the intake tube in place of the assembly.

I'll probably do just that - get some sort of smaller individual filter.

 

[Curtice]

woohoo!

 

[Curtice]

So as you can see above, got the engine started. No cooling system hooked up yet, so I only let run for a few seconds.

Had one problem with the ignition wiring though. When I first tried, I wasn't getting spark. But when I jumped from the coil + to the battery + , it fired right up. I traced the problem to the new relay which provides power to the ECU and to the coil, which I wired up as (hopefully correctly). For some reason, power is not getting through the relay. If I jump directly from the BY ignition switch wire to the BL wire to the ignitor/ecu, etc. it works great.

The diagram below is what I have wired up for the relay. The red line represents the jump that makes it work. I have double checked my relay configuration and pretty sure I do have it wired exactly as in the diagram below, but the fact that that red line jump makes it work makes me wonder if I do have something wrong. Any thoughts on why it might not work? I am going to check that I have it grounded well, but I think I do, so wanted to see if any other suggestions.

 

[pappy]

Why use the relay? Did I miss something in a previous discussion?

 

[Curtice]

Well I am mostly blindly follow instructions since I have never done anything like this before...

But my understanding that I read somewhere, at least one reason is to take some of the load off the stock ignition switch, and provide direct battery power with the addition of the new 62 circuits.

But maybe someone more in the know can chime in.

 

[Stumpalama]

Check the power to the relay in your wire with the fusable link that provides power to the B-L wire through the relay. Unless I misread your previous post, you did not check power there.