My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install….

[Jdc1]

That might be for the Sniper 2 that has bluetooth connectivity…..

 

[knuckle47]

They CLAIM you can can buy an adapter that connects to the Sniper.. I don’t remember the cost

 

[zerotreedelta]

In all actuality, the SD card mode works nicely in that you can keep a running version of tuning changes in a folder of files - I never even bothered to connect the laptop directly to the Sniper. I think the main advantage to the direct connection would be more like doing dyno tuning.

(I'd still like to get mine on a dyno... not that it's a powerhouse, but that I suspect there's some tuning on the table still)

 

[knuckle47]

Fully understood and agree… I just tend to think that a fully efficient metering and timing just makes things cleaner..not EPA clean but as meant to run at its best. Like an Olympian at the top peak ability of their game.

The tools are in place…get them doing their best.

 

[knuckle47]

As an avid forum reader, I see there are a fair amount of Sniper EFI users. Has anyone modified any of the settings with regards to fuel and timing?
I am happy with the performance of the unit and the ignition system, but I have always been a tinkerer and someone looking to see how far this can be changed for the better.

It is March 29, 2025. Basically 6 months into the finished Sniper project. All winter long I have had too many other projects but I think about the fuel injection routinely. Along those lines, I’ve just added a laptop to the pole barn to experiment with sniper EFI software and to be able to dissect the timing tables and fuel maps on the SD card and throttle body ECU. I have a total lack of knowledge about fuel injection so it’s a learning experience and after all of this, it may show nothing.

I have read and watched hundreds of video and hundreds of pages of information from Holley and posts out in the real world from people who say while the system can set itself to your operating conditions and will do well, these are approximations. On the other hand there are a multitude of changes that can tweak this Performance to an even higher level. Kind of like seeking the higher high.

After all of this, I may find it is exactly where it needs to be, but I cannot make that assumption without knowing what’s on the other side. Kind of like Christopher Columbus when he looked out towards the ocean.

If anyone feels, they would like to share some of the settings that they have experimented with I would be anxious to plug them in and see where it takes me. I have already had some very gracious members send me some files back in August and I am finding some of them worked very well And some of them make things a little more difficult. Clearly this is all based on the set up of each individual engine. And if it is good enough to leave it where it is, I can always upload the same file currently

I know I can toss a LS into it and muscle the hell out of it. I know we say it’s tractor motor… I have already committed to simply looking for efficiency regarding the ability of the engine to breathe properly, burn fuel properly and be a reliable operating part of my 40. This is not a race engine as we all know. A highly trained athlete can run the extra distance because his own body has been tweaked for maximum levels of performance. I would love to see my engine working the same way and I will never know it unless I get in and screw it up.

All thoughts appreciated

Rob@moselymotors, @zerotreedelta and @jhsmith thank you once again for access to your information early on with my original setup. I’ll keep you posted as anything develops

 

[zerotreedelta]

Road salt season is finally coming to an end here... I'm curious to track down a chassis down in the area this summer. Not expecting anything amazing, but it would make dialing in a tune a bit faster and safer. I'm also curious what the self tune + close to factory timing leaves on the table. Guessing not a ton, given it's only 110hp+/-, but still would be interesting.

 

[knuckle47]

@zerotreedelta My thoughts exactly… according to several videos I have seen especially a few by Joe Simpson, although he does sell a tuning course, there are several adjustments always available as each engine has different requirements. I gotta see for myself if it’s anything to make note of

I do notice…if it’s reading properly, why does a cold cold winter start NOT regulate the initial idle during warmup?

 

[mrboatman]

It will be interesting to see if there is a custom tune for the 2F that does anything better than the self tune

 

[knuckle47]

101%. I figure I’ll never know without trying … I’m happy but…

 

[mrboatman]

101%. I figure I’ll never know without trying … I’m happy but…

I totally agree

 

[GA Architect]

FWIW: @knuckle47 - at 4.5 years & about 15K (+) miles of running my Sniper 2300, I've yet to adjust any of the wizard's initial start-up settings.

 

[Skreddy]

I’ve adjusted my target AFR’s and settings related to startup but otherwise, I let the wizard do its thing. I don’t have a distributor capable of spark control so can’t help there.

 

[knuckle47]

@GA Architect and @Skreddy these are decent track records and certainly encouraging to anyone thinking about this changeover. Hell, it convinced me just reading about it. My experience so far , while limited, is comparable. The starting process alone is now a party. By that I mean since I don’t run it regularly at the moment, It could be a month or more before I get to take it somewhere so the starting process is difficult ( Weber Carb). Now, even on the coldest winter day it starts within 2-3 seconds of cranking. I do need to feather the throttle a little for 8-10 seconds or so for a smooth idle to set in but that’s it. I can stomp on the throttle and it does not hesitate. The Weber would randomly cough and hesitate so these are things that had not happened previously

The consensus seems to be that the wizard has a good generalized setting for many of the vehicles that are setup with it but there are engines that do benefit from a tweak somewhere. I am HOPING to see if this helps or hurts my operating environment. Idle hands and an overactive brain as they say. For anyone who remembers “ The National Enquirer”. . .that slogan was….inquiring minds want to know….

 

[Skreddy]

@GA Architect and @Skreddy these are decent track records and certainly encouraging to anyone thinking about this changeover. Hell, it convinced me just reading about it. My experience so far , while limited, is comparable. The starting process alone is now a party. By that I mean since I don’t run it regularly at the moment, It could be a month or more before I get to take it somewhere so the starting process is difficult ( Weber Carb). Now, even on the coldest winter day it starts within 2-3 seconds of cranking. I do need to feather the throttle a little for 8-10 seconds or so for a smooth idle to set in but that’s it. I can stomp on the throttle and it does not hesitate. The Weber would randomly cough and hesitate so these are things that had not happened previously

The consensus seems to be that the wizard has a good generalized setting for many of the vehicles that are setup with it but there are engines that do benefit from a tweak somewhere. I am HOPING to see if this helps or hurts my operating environment. Idle hands and an overactive brain as they say. For anyone who remembers “ The National Enquirer”. . .that slogan was….inquiring minds want to know….

I’d have to take pics of my settings to remember what I changed, but I had similar cold start issues where I needed to help it throttle up. I seem to have cleared pretty much all of that up except on really cold mornings, like sub 20 degrees F. It now will start and instead of chugging around 400 rpm until it dies, it’ll start, sorta rough idle around 600 for 2-3 seconds, then come up to 900-1000 and slowly back down with time and coolant temp. I have my idle set around 780 rpm I think? A higher idle definitely helped with the startup, as the throttle blades are open more to help out the IAC. I also like a higher idle (750+) because splashy oil makes happy pistons. Lube is good.

 

[knuckle47]

So then, we actually had similar startup processes. My idle is set for 750. It just seemed that I could not depend on the idle setting in setup to bring the warm temp idle (above 160) to 700 without added pedal and proper IAC. The IAC would work its way down from 100% to 70% to 40% to 10% approx while warming up. I tried 650 idle speed and it runs well but I felt it just “sounded” better at 750. Again, all of that is AFTER it reaches 160 or above and at that point, it’s all great.

HOWEVER. Why is it that the ECU would not set the cold (below 25*) start at a higher idle ON ITS OWN and then gradually reduce that speed as temperatures increase in the engine. Basically, I have to do that with the throttle. Granted…it only takes a few seconds , maybe 10 -15 seconds to get the fuel feed stabilized enough to run smoothly. Once it get over 100* it seems to be good.

My oldest vehicle that had fuel injection…even at -30*F would start, idle higher, warm up and drop to normal eventually.

I hope I am getting my thoughts across

AND FOR ANYONE READING THIS: this issue is really insignificant in the every day running world of the Sniper EFI … THIS IS MERELY A NIT PICKING SESSION. If you’re thinking about a swap… I love it

 

[Skreddy]

So then, we actually had similar startup processes. My idle is set for 750. It just seemed that I could not depend on the idle setting in setup to bring the warm temp idle (above 160) to 700 without added pedal and proper IAC. The IAC would work its way down from 100% to 70% to 40% to 10% approx while warming up. I tried 650 idle speed and it runs well but I felt it just “sounded” better at 750. Again, all of that is AFTER it reaches 160 or above and at that point, it’s all great.

HOWEVER. Why is it that the ECU would not set the cold (below 25*) start at a higher idle ON ITS OWN and then gradually reduce that speed as temperatures increase in the engine. Basically, I have to do that with the throttle. Granted…it only takes a few seconds , maybe 10 -15 seconds to get the fuel feed stabilized enough to run smoothly. Once it get over 100* it seems to be good.

My oldest vehicle that had fuel injection…even at -30*F would start, idle higher, warm up and drop to normal eventually.

I hope I am getting my thoughts across

AND FOR ANYONE READING THIS: this issue is really insignificant in the every day running world of the Sniper EFI … THIS IS MERELY A NIT PICKING SESSION. If you’re thinking about a swap… I love it

The problem, as I understand it, is the IAC is just very limited in what it can do. It can’t compensate for more than a few hundred rpm really, that’s why a higher initial idle/throttle blade opening can cure it/help cure it; the IAC isn’t at its limits and doing all the work.

There’s some decent write ups on taping over the IAC completely for tuning, then when you’re done and take the tape off, you know the IAC wasn’t involved so it can only help. I didn’t get into any of that on mine though. I’ll try to post some pics of my settings tomorrow. Cold starts are the hardest to tune because you really only get 1 without waiting a few hours.

 

[knuckle47]

I did try the tape thing… I can’t say that it revealed any illuminating plan or idea. I have tried IAC adjustments maybe 10 times already and still find the same end result…which I guess in one way shows consistency

As for the 1 try…that’s 100%.

I believe this is the one area of improvement I would consider a great success with all of this “ playing around “ about to ensue. One the other hand… you may have identified the limits already with the IAC that I have not

 

[Skreddy]

I did try the tape thing… I can’t say that it revealed any illuminating plan or idea. I have tried IAC adjustments maybe 10 times already and still find the same end result…which I guess in one way shows consistency

As for the 1 try…that’s 100%.

I believe this is the one area of improvement I would consider a great success with all of this “ playing around “ about to ensue. One the other hand… you may have identified the limits already with the IAC that I have not

If I remember right, my improvements came in the coolant centered tables of adjustment. But again, I’ll check tomorrow.

 

[mrboatman]

I’ve messed with the primer and percent amount for starting. The best I’ve found to help starting and getting it stabilized is turn the key on and let it prime wait for 3” screen to come alive then turn the key off and turn key back on and when screen is ready then start engine. Or to simplify it just double prime

 

[knuckle47]

@mrboatman I’m going to try this double prime. In fact, by accident, I have probably done this several times but never really took note of the way it started…especially if it was cold out

Before I start messing around with things, it pays to document each reaction in case it need to be repeatable