Skreddy
SILVER Star
It’s a small thing, but you can change the tach range also. I think I set mine to 5k max.
My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install….
- Thread starter knuckle47
- Start date
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You can make baby adjustments to see if it will eek up once it goes to zero. Drive it. Enjoy.
Also you probably need more timing. On the line is zero. BB is +7 which is stock. I find 10 to be good. Sometimes more
I’ve never seen an intake without some kind of PCV spot in it. Take a pic from the drivers fender looking in
Thanks for taking the time to respond. Having read many posts and recommendations on where to plumb it in I was puzzled like a Missouri mule and a new gate. I made so many mistakes on the first go around I decided one more time to try it again after fixing some of my mishaps.
You are good going into the base. Rock on
thank you Sir. One last question while the meter is running. How long should i expect to run it before it figures out everything it needs. Things like coming to a stop when first taking off, letting off the gas on a fast decel where it goes rich and such.
- Thread starter
- #128
@JKIII FJ40 if your talking about completing the learning cycle…I have read 200-300 miles…. Once I am secure that I have a few things on it as they should be, I can rack that up in a weekend 
many thanks, seems like I need to just run it. Thanks again for the thread, lots of good info here that I jumped in on. Keep posting, many are gaining from your experience.
- Thread starter
- #130
@jklll fj40. Is Ballston Lake the same as Ballston Spa off the NY Thruway. On the way to VT thru Lake George …I kinda remember this name going past the town of Half Moon and the bridge
close, its near Burnt Hills on the west side of Clifton Park.
- Thread starter
- #132
Todays wrap: Sunday
Spent about 2 hours with it adding the PCV valve, tubing and connecting it to the manifold. PO had the engine rebuilt and there was a cap on the manifold and the engine side cover so it’s now back to stock. Secured a few more hoses, wires and attached the throttle return spring. Decided to check timing.
Disconnected the DUI distributor vacuum and plugged it. Hit the timing light and found at about 850 rpm, the bb is 1 needle width past the pointer to the right ….so maybe that is around 9 degrees?
Started chasing the IAC again and wound up getting near 950 rpm before I could consistently get around 2-3 with a blip of the throttle when it would return to a stable idle… went up and down enough that I could be at 11-12….or Zero. Nothing in between. I don’t want to idle at 950 so it trimmed the “carb screw’ back to about 725…( which was about 1/16 of a turn) and said F it…. I’ll call Holley in the morning and see what they have to say
When I went to pull the truck back in the garage… idle was 720 +/- and the IAC was 3… stayed there for another 20 minutes as I drove around for a little.
Put it away with a little more confidence and will check it again tomorrow
Spent about 2 hours with it adding the PCV valve, tubing and connecting it to the manifold. PO had the engine rebuilt and there was a cap on the manifold and the engine side cover so it’s now back to stock. Secured a few more hoses, wires and attached the throttle return spring. Decided to check timing.
Disconnected the DUI distributor vacuum and plugged it. Hit the timing light and found at about 850 rpm, the bb is 1 needle width past the pointer to the right ….so maybe that is around 9 degrees?
Started chasing the IAC again and wound up getting near 950 rpm before I could consistently get around 2-3 with a blip of the throttle when it would return to a stable idle… went up and down enough that I could be at 11-12….or Zero. Nothing in between. I don’t want to idle at 950 so it trimmed the “carb screw’ back to about 725…( which was about 1/16 of a turn) and said F it…. I’ll call Holley in the morning and see what they have to say
When I went to pull the truck back in the garage… idle was 720 +/- and the IAC was 3… stayed there for another 20 minutes as I drove around for a little.
Put it away with a little more confidence and will check it again tomorrow
- Thread starter
- #133
Been two weeks running around in the 40 experimenting with the Holley Sniper setup so I figured it’s time to reinstall the passenger seat. Originally, I had cut an access hole in the tank cover and when I re-installed it, the fuel lines did not have enough clearance for the AN fittings. Had to remove it 3 times to trace out a new cut out pattern to allow clearance. Finally got it finished but it is already 6:45pm and decided …tomorrow is another day for this old man.
I also swore I was NOT going to change the check valve in the evap system under the fuel fill covers. But…it was easily going to make me nutty enough finally having the check valve and having it sit in the drawer. With the new steel fuel tank out of the truck, this was an easier job but the tank is in and 3/4 full so it became a tedious project with 90 degree needle nose and needle nose pliers…any way, aside from practicing a few of those new words my wife taught me from her embroidery machine….it is done!
I also swore I was NOT going to change the check valve in the evap system under the fuel fill covers. But…it was easily going to make me nutty enough finally having the check valve and having it sit in the drawer. With the new steel fuel tank out of the truck, this was an easier job but the tank is in and 3/4 full so it became a tedious project with 90 degree needle nose and needle nose pliers…any way, aside from practicing a few of those new words my wife taught me from her embroidery machine….it is done!
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Very nice job. Do you have a little of that green paint to put on the fresh cut metal for the tank cover to use as a rust preventative?
- Thread starter
- #135
@Green Bean once again, thank you… You noticed ! Yes, in fact once I have it all re-assembled and properly fit, I am removing the carpeting and re-spraying that Raptor coating where it was never done…I know the heavy outdoor carpet, looks like those heavy striped runners in a hotel lobby, keeps the noise down but I have adhesive sound deadener and may use it…or put a City Racer front mat in there….I also have the rear heater and all of the plumbing, brackets and pipes to go with it so this gets installed before the seat
I also discovered an isosceles triangle looking steel mount with a light similar to the one built into the upper dash pad. @Hodakaguy showed one a few months back that gets mounted by the parking brake and looks like it illuminates the left side of the heater. This is that same one and was stuffed behind the radio. I’d found it while trying to unscrew the pull choke knob from the dash.
Going to check timing again and change the plugs. My bigger problem is my own speed of my work. It is slower and I would have liked to be at this stage 3 weeks ago but honestly, I don’t see any advantage to being “done”. I’m a believer is that in this vein, it’s too much fun to work on and it’s never “done”.
By the way, the knee still is sore and when I need to get down low, that left leg gets stretched out in front first. . .since it hurts to do it normally. That makes getting back up very difficult. But it is better.
I also discovered an isosceles triangle looking steel mount with a light similar to the one built into the upper dash pad. @Hodakaguy showed one a few months back that gets mounted by the parking brake and looks like it illuminates the left side of the heater. This is that same one and was stuffed behind the radio. I’d found it while trying to unscrew the pull choke knob from the dash.
Going to check timing again and change the plugs. My bigger problem is my own speed of my work. It is slower and I would have liked to be at this stage 3 weeks ago but honestly, I don’t see any advantage to being “done”. I’m a believer is that in this vein, it’s too much fun to work on and it’s never “done”.
By the way, the knee still is sore and when I need to get down low, that left leg gets stretched out in front first. . .since it hurts to do it normally. That makes getting back up very difficult. But it is better.
- Thread starter
- #136
I pooped out fast today but wanted to change the spark plugs and plug wires. I was quite surprised when I pulled these old plugs to see how black they were. This may have contributed to a less than smooth idle as when I restarted the motor, it was substantially smoother and softer sounding.
i bought a set of livewires from Performance Distributors when I bought the Sniper about 17 months ago. To my surprise 3 of the 6 wires had 180 degree straight ends on each side …#2,#5 and #6. I used them as is but the old Livewires did have the standard 90 degree ends on the distributor cap side. Used the Denso W14EXR-U plugs.
Once again, the truck is running very smoothly and starts instantly so I am quite pleased overall. That IAC thing is still a 0 at idle but runs so much nicer than the Weber that was on it before
By the way, the sand on the old plug is from the driveway…I was just throwing the old ones on the ground but decided to take the picture after
i bought a set of livewires from Performance Distributors when I bought the Sniper about 17 months ago. To my surprise 3 of the 6 wires had 180 degree straight ends on each side …#2,#5 and #6. I used them as is but the old Livewires did have the standard 90 degree ends on the distributor cap side. Used the Denso W14EXR-U plugs.
Once again, the truck is running very smoothly and starts instantly so I am quite pleased overall. That IAC thing is still a 0 at idle but runs so much nicer than the Weber that was on it before
By the way, the sand on the old plug is from the driveway…I was just throwing the old ones on the ground but decided to take the picture after
- Thread starter
- #137
Seems as though I may have gotten the IAC setting correctly tuned in. Took me long enough and I guess I know why. I confused the “carb throttle screw” as an idle speed setting. Until I learned that the idle speed is controlled by the computer, I did not recognize the difference. This screw only controls the IAC position that keeps the butterflies in The throat and I would try chasing it the wrong way.
I tried several methods of correcting the issue and the Holly technique and already told to me my @wngrog did set it straight using the tape technique and blocking off the air input . So to add to my learning experience and not feel like it was just luck, I messed around and tried some other suggestion. I did crank that screw way out of adjustment …now understanding that it is a control setting for something else. I let the computer set the idle setting I had in the setup file which I set at 750 rpm. Then, backed out the “carb throttle screw” gradually and blipped the throttle to get the system to stabilize after each adjustment.
Within 3-4 minutes I arrive at a sensitive balance point where idle is around 750 and IAC stays around 10. The book says 8-12. Seems like it may have been resolved. After 50+ years of carburetors the concept was just way beyond reach that this screw setting was not a speed control screw. Old dog learned a new trick this weekend.
Since I was in a good mood from that success, I added these grab handles and took it for a ride. Now I can move on the another item. Even found some of the original tools that came with my ‘74 50 yrs ago
I tried several methods of correcting the issue and the Holly technique and already told to me my @wngrog did set it straight using the tape technique and blocking off the air input . So to add to my learning experience and not feel like it was just luck, I messed around and tried some other suggestion. I did crank that screw way out of adjustment …now understanding that it is a control setting for something else. I let the computer set the idle setting I had in the setup file which I set at 750 rpm. Then, backed out the “carb throttle screw” gradually and blipped the throttle to get the system to stabilize after each adjustment.
Within 3-4 minutes I arrive at a sensitive balance point where idle is around 750 and IAC stays around 10. The book says 8-12. Seems like it may have been resolved. After 50+ years of carburetors the concept was just way beyond reach that this screw setting was not a speed control screw. Old dog learned a new trick this weekend.
Since I was in a good mood from that success, I added these grab handles and took it for a ride. Now I can move on the another item. Even found some of the original tools that came with my ‘74 50 yrs ago
It’s always a good day when you figure something out and even better when you see just how simple it was 
- Thread starter
- #139
@mrboatman oh my yes… something so clear now but completely obscured… it’s a good feeling …
- Thread starter
- #140
Today is Aug 1…gorgeous weather….one of those days where you just won’t go out to work on the Land Cruiser. Heat index of 113*
Yet, this was at my garage door yesterday. Here is a few pictures of inside of the box. My painting is going well but I am not touching the clear coat until it hardens more. The sniper is running nicely despite a floating IAC between 0 and 14. That tweaks my brain since they ask it to be above 3 and under 12 and I just don’t seem to get it there…it floats around never a steady 6,7 or under 12. So additionally, Rob at Mosley told me he has a few for instructions to send so I’m waiting. I have to question where all of these parts are going to fit in the engine bay aside from the actual distributor.
Yet, this was at my garage door yesterday. Here is a few pictures of inside of the box. My painting is going well but I am not touching the clear coat until it hardens more. The sniper is running nicely despite a floating IAC between 0 and 14. That tweaks my brain since they ask it to be above 3 and under 12 and I just don’t seem to get it there…it floats around never a steady 6,7 or under 12. So additionally, Rob at Mosley told me he has a few for instructions to send so I’m waiting. I have to question where all of these parts are going to fit in the engine bay aside from the actual distributor.
