Motor mounts

[terrapin]

Thanks, I just so happen to have a 2004 LX so this is perfect. Did you happen to notice what the spec is for the single nut that attaches to the engine? I'm no engineer, but the torque specs for the mounts seem really low for something that vibrates all the time. Do folks use locktite on these?

 

[Nightbrew]

Thinking it's time to replace mine. 22 years and 250k. 1998 LX.

Looks like the part # for my engine mounts is 12361-50210. Found them for $88 online from Toyota. Curiously, I found these from Febest on Amazon. Anyone ever consider these? They are only $24 each. Amazon product ASIN B00HCOIMBQ
The transmission mount for mine is 12371-50080 and found one online for $78 from Toyota.

Other than the engine/transmission mounts, the body mounts and the front LCA bushings, I've replaced all of the bushings over the past 2 years.

Did you end up trying the febest? If you did would you recommend them to others? OEM seems pricey for such a simple piece, but it is what it is. Thanks

 

[Eyedaho]

I just got a Beck Arnley transmission mount from Rock Auto for $15 on wholesaler closeout. It says made in Taiwan on the sticker, but has 12371-50080 molded into the side of it. Seems quality and possibly OEM for way cheaper than the $84 online Toyota price that I was seeing.

 

[Nightbrew]

Am I supposed to remove the crossmember directly under the oil pan? I’m concerned that if I don’t, I won’t have much room for a board and I will be putting too much pressure on a small area. I certainly don’t want to crush the oil pan. Can someone describe or show a pic of how the set up their support board? Thanks

 

[2001LC]

Put your jack under the leading edge of bell housing. Is how I lift engine off LH mount for steering rack & pinion R&R. It should work for engine mounts as well.

Do not lift more than and ~1/2", without first removing fan shroud bolts. Or you may damage shroud and or fan blade.

 

[Nightbrew]

Put your jack under the leading edge of bell housing. Is how I lift engine off LH mount for steering rack & pinion R&R. It should work for engine mounts as well.

Do not lift more than and ~1/2", without first removing fan shroud bolts. Or you may damage shroud and or fan blade.
View attachment 2434393

Thanks @2001LC as usual. I will give it a try.

 

[abuck99]

Undo and replace one side at a time- that will keep engine lift to a minimum

 

[Nightbrew]

Is it best to remove the nut closest to the engine, before or after lifting up the engine. The nuts look difficult to access, especially the one on the driver’s side. How is everyone getting at those?

 

[RootMeanSqr]

Is it best to remove the nut closest to the engine, before or after lifting up the engine. The nuts look difficult to access, especially the one on the driver’s side. How is everyone getting at those?

I removed that nut before lifting the engine. Removed the top nut, then lifted the engine, then removed the the two bolts attaching the mount to the frame, if I recall, the forward bolt has a welded/captive nut, making it easier. I just used a ratcheting box wrench. Might need a socket, or other wrench on the rear bottom side nut when you are loosening the bolt.

I accessed by laying under the truck behind the left front wheel. Have to remove the splash guards / belly pans.

 

[Nightbrew]

Well, I am in need of further help from the community. I spent the last few hours trying to get the driver side mount to realign correctly for replacement. Has anyone else had trouble getting these to line back up after removal of the old ones? In case it helps, let me tell you what I have done. I have loosened the nuts on the 2 bolts the go through the cross member for the trans mount. I have them a couple turns away from coming completely off. On passenger side motor mount the 2 bolts are broke free and about finger tight, and same goes for the nut on top of stud. On the drivers side mount I have tried differing setups to get it to line up. I have attached the top stud/bolt, both loose and snug. I couldn't get the holes for the bolts to line up. It seems a little twisted and needs to come slightly in toward the engine. I have also tried attaching the 2 bolts first, both loose and snug. When I do this and start to lower the engine the stud is misaligned from its hole. The engine's weight rests on top of the stud. I tried using a prybar to better orient the stud to no avail. However it did come close, but I was concerned that if it did start to go through the hole, the threads might be damaged. I also tried jacking up the engine a couple of different ways, with no noticeable difference. What am I missing here? Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated as usual.

 

[Nightbrew]

Thinking a little more on this. Should the opposite side mount bolts/nut be tight. Seeing how I left mine snug, I wonder is this allowing for too much movement?

 

[RootMeanSqr]

Thinking a little more on this. Should the opposite side mount bolts/nut be tight. Seeing how I left mine snug, I wonder is this allowing for too much movement?

As a reference, I didn't touch the transmission mount and left the passenger side torqued down when I did the driver side. I think I might have had to use a screwdriver to maneuver the mount a little to get things to align. If I recall, I bolted the mou t to the frame first, then dropped the engine.

As an alternative something to try, you could loosely bolt to engine first, slowly lower engine, get one of the mounting bolts in (forward bolt?) and then use a screwdriver through the holes to try an align as you push the bolt through.

 

[Nightbrew]

As a reference, I didn't touch the transmission mount and left the passenger side torqued down when I did the driver side. I think I might have had to use a screwdriver to maneuver the mount a little to get things to align. If I recall, I bolted the mou t to the frame first, then dropped the engine.

As an alternative something to try, you could loosely bolt to engine first, slowly lower engine, get one of the mounting bolts in (forward bolt?) and then use a screwdriver through the holes to try an align as you push the bolt through.

Thanks, this is almost what I did. I put the top nut on the stud, loosely. Lowered the engine just the right amount and got the front bolt in, loosely. Lowered a little more, and with some pressure I was able to get the rear bolt through. Still seems way too hard. Now I have spent the last bit just trying to get the passenger side mount loose. It seems like the top is bonded to the bracket coming off the engine. I’m going to finish lunch, and then get back out there to whoop it. Thanks

 

[zhloea]

So I learned some things on the way, I'll break it down in steps.

1. Remove all skids
2. Loosen transfer case mount bolts as much as possible, do not remove them. Yes, even if you are not replacing the transfer case mount.
3. Pick which side you want to do first, one at a time. Driver side is more difficult than passenger side because there is less room, so I recommend you do driver side first.
4. Support oil pan with 2x4's under a jack. You will need to be able to move it up and down.
5. Remove mount bolts. Don't worry the engine will not drop there is a pin holding the engine/mount on the frame even after removing the bolt.
6. Lift/tilt engine with jack under oil pan (you only need 1~2 inches
7. Lift/Slide out engine mount & replace new one.
8. Finger tighten bolt and move to passenger side and repeat
9. Tighten all bolts and transfer case bolt.
10. Done

Hi, looking into this project now, thanks for your info.
1. When we said " Loosen transfer case mount bolts as much as possible", you mean the two bolts which can reach from the underneath of the member bar as the pic below right?

2. " Lift/tilt engine with a jack under oil pan (you only need 1~2 inches", instead of this, can I lift it from the underneath of the bell but still follow your other steps? (That is because I have lifted driver side one time from there and the bell feeling more solid.... )

Thanks!

 

[zhloea]

Also, did anyone try those 25 dollars amazon mounts? how about them?

 

[flintknapper]

Also, did anyone try those 25 dollars amazon mounts? how about them?

NO...NO......

This is one of those things you want to use OEM or a very GOOD aftermarket part for. You don't want to have to do this again anytime soon.

 

[savirc]

Hi, looking into this project now, thanks for your info.
1. When we said " Loosen transfer case mount bolts as much as possible", you mean the two bolts which can reach from the underneath of the member bar as the pic below right?
View attachment 2664762

2. " Lift/tilt engine with a jack under oil pan (you only need 1~2 inches", instead of this, can I lift it from the underneath of the bell but still follow your other steps? (That is because I have lifted driver side one time from there and the bell feeling more solid.... )

Thanks!

1) yes

2)yes

Whatever you do, dont remove the bolts from the transfer case just loosen them leave a few threads on also one mount at a time

 

[zhloea]

NO...NO......

This is one of those things you want to use OEM or a very GOOD aftermarket part for. You don't want to have to do this again anytime soon.

Thanks, man, the OEMs currently 130+ each, a little pain, so I need your inputs like that as a "pain release..."

 

[zhloea]

1) yes

2)yes

Whatever you do, dont remove the bolts from the transfer case just loosen them leave a few threads on also one mount at a time

Thanks for the help!
I will also replace the trans mount after I finish the engine mount. So do I need support or / a little lift under the trans oil pan after I complete these engine mount and start to work on the trans mount?

 

[savirc]

Also, did anyone try those 25 dollars amazon mounts? how about them?

Please don't. You'll be replacing them again in short of a year. Not in this case but in other applications I've bought nonoem rubber and it has dissentigrated. Rubber has quality process involved