Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (9 Viewers)

[GLTHFJ60]

I like the second angle better as well and agree that a tad more vertical would be fine but that might just be splitting hairs. With it laid over as much as it was the spring rate would have been very soft. Making the shackle more vertical will help stiffen it up which is good for the heavy diesel and front end control when cornering. During my second round of shackle set ups I went with shorter and more vertical set ups (from what I had) and the handling tightened up which was a good direction for a SOA with no sway bars. Of course too vertical is way too stiff so one could go too far.

Second round of shackle setups with the D60? I guess I need to sit tight and wait for more updates

Good point on cornering as it relates to shackle angle. I hadn't even thought of that. I felt that Moonshine was pretty stable in the corners for a top heavy truck, so it'll be interesting to see how handling changes with this new axle.

 

[John Smith]

Your new angle is much better. With your first setup, it would be very easy to invert the shackle.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Your new angle is much better. With your first setup, it would be very easy to invert the shackle.

Completely agreed, thanks for weighing in! At first I was reluctant to move the shackle hanger, just because I didn't want to move it, but I'm glad I did. This should be much better.

 

[boots4]

Second round of shackle setups with the D60? I guess I need to sit tight and wait for more updates

Good point on cornering as it relates to shackle angle. I hadn't even thought of that. I felt that Moonshine was pretty stable in the corners for a top heavy truck, so it'll be interesting to see how handling changes with this new axle.

Second round overall. I've changed the angle on the rear previously and then on the front when I put in the D60. Both are more vertical and shorter in shackle length.

For me since I hadn't driven my truck for about 5 months and had gotten used to the modern car the whole rig felt really heavy. I probably gained 200 pounds with the D60 I'm guessing. I am getting used to it again and even though it can't compare to the modern car I find myself wanting to drive it. Weird addiction I guess.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got the material yesterday and remembered that I had my recovery points from the CUCV still left. Going to see about sticking these in the mix, welded to the frame, sticking out from the front crossmember.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Like this. Thoughts? They'll be welded in place.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

If they don't interfere with your tube bumper (if that's what your putting on).. I say burn 'em in Johnny.

J

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If they don't interfere with your tube bumper (if that's what your putting on).. I say burn 'em in Johnny.

J

I'm not sure what I'm doing for the full bumper yet. I know that I need recovery points, and I know that I need a front crossmember, so it only seems natural that I'd integrate the recovery points into the crossmember.

Some guys in my club say I should be using solid steel recovery points, that are welded right to the face of a heavy duty crossmember. Think that would be stronger, equally strong, or weaker?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I'm not sure what I'm doing for the full bumper yet. I know that I need recovery points, and I know that I need a front crossmember, so it only seems natural that I'd integrate the recovery points into the crossmember.

Some guys in my club say I should be using solid steel recovery points, that are welded right to the face of a heavy duty crossmember. Think that would be stronger, equally strong, or weaker?

I usually integrate my recovery point/frame mount (use a piece of 3/4" x 4" strap to act as the bumper mount to the frame and shackle point all in one) through the front bumper shell. I think the solid is stronger. Looks like yours are .250" tubing.. Still strong, but I'd trust a 1/2" or thicker plate more.

Edit.. If you are unsure, for now, drill and bolt them in with grade 8/10 bolts and then when you decide, you can plug weld the holes and weld/attach the new RPs in... The more you weld and cut on the frame the weaker it will make it over time due to the HAZ and stresses.

Just my .02

J

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I am unsure, but the only way I could make these work is if I built the front crossmember around them. I can't bolt it in for now, because they'd have to be part of the crossmember.

Guess I'll just make the crossmember for now and build in recovery points later.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

10/4... indecision is a B!&(H! You'll get it.. I have faith Bro.

J

 

[boots4]

If you closed in the ends and sleeved the hole I think they'd be stronger however, do you have a shackle wide enough to go through that hole? That looks wide for an average sized shackle. You could bring the hole size down with the thickness of the sleeve but it's still pretty wide.

How are you planning to integrate the cross member?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

They fit my shackles, but I got shackles with a 1" diameter pin.

Lots of people have little confidence in these recovery points. Out the window they go.

This is the plan for the crossmember.

 

[boots4]

Good, I was hoping you'd tie in the front horns that way. I think that will look nice.

 

[davegonz]

That's going to ride nice, but I just wonder about big hits/bumps. Are you going to have some fancy bump stops?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's going to ride nice, but I just wonder about big hits/bumps. Are you going to have some fancy bump stops?

Bumpstops are part of the plan to restrict upward movement, to ensure that the driveshaft and tie rod both have clearance to the drivetrain.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Today's progress:

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Bumpstops are on my list to get. Do you have a brand you like Johnny. I was looking around under Goss today and I noticed there is a little dent in the oil pan from the pinion flange looks like...

I found these at Summit. I'll have to fab an extension to make up the remaining height needed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9109g/overview

Nice work on the crossmember.


J

 

[cruisermatt]

Tell me if I have this right:

You could try shorter leaf springs and improve your shackle angle (closer to vertical), but you would lose flexibility? If not, why not try leaf springs that are 3-4 inches shorter?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Bumpstops are on my list to get. Do you have a brand you like Johnny. I was looking around under Goss today and I noticed there is a little dent in the oil pan from the pinion flange looks like...

I found these at Summit. I'll have to fab an extension to make up the remaining height needed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9109g/overview

Nice work on the crossmember.


J

Thanks j! I've used different bumpstops in the past. The link should be in this thread, back about a year ago. I'll find it and post it up again.

I might use something stiffer this time to prevent riding on them all the time though.

Tell me if I have this right:

You could try shorter leaf springs and improve your shackle angle (closer to vertical), but you would lose flexibility? If not, why not try leaf springs that are 3-4 inches shorter?

Since I've fabricated the shackle locations myself, I can put them wherever. I chose this shackle angle because I think it will be ideal for articulation and provide a good ride.