Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (3 Viewers)

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Ordered my Tiny Tach. :bounce:

I'm getting a bunch of advice to play with the smoke screw in my aneroid before messing with the throttle index, as it controls low boost fuel supply. Think I should install the stage 2 fuel pin before anything else, seeing as I intend to do that anyway? That way I'll be making final adjustments as opposed to getting it running right to start off with, only to readjust everything later.

Thanks again for the advice!

You should index the throttle first, then play with the smoke screw. The VE pumped engines won't run well at all without that spring indexed correctly.

Its pretty easy to do, all you need to do is turn it by hand counter clockwise to create slack in the spring and then turn it clockwise until you feel tension and then slowly release the tension in the spring. Where it ends up is where you want to have it set to when you put it all back together.

You should put the new fuel pin while doing this too. It doesn't effect the throttle index and That way as you said you won't have to make more adjustments later.
 
Johnny,

Great to see your diesel come to life. Lots of good info in this thread. Keep it coming. I'm on the prowl for one too.

J

Thanks buddy! Good to hear from you. When you find your 4BT, hopefully Moonshine's thread helps :D

You should index the throttle first, then play with the smoke screw. The VE pumped engines won't run well at all without that spring indexed correctly.

Its pretty easy to do, all you need to do is turn it by hand counter clockwise to create slack in the spring and then turn it clockwise until you feel tension and then slowly release the tension in the spring. Where it ends up is where you want to have it set to when you put it all back together.

You should put the new fuel pin while doing this too. It doesn't effect the throttle index and That way as you said you won't have to make more adjustments later.

That's what I was originally thinking. I'll start on that tomorrow, with the fuel pin as well.

You mean turn counter clockwise to create spring tension, right? With an on-road VE, turning the throttle shaft counter clockwise opens the throttle, increasing RPM. Good advice man, thank you!
 
Got some work done on Moonshine today. Installed a new battery, made a new longer and larger gauge main ground, replace the split front brake line and bled the brakes.

DieHard Platinum P-2:
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IMG_20130105_134209.jpg


I then sought out to put the fuel cutofff solenoid on switched ignition power. I pulled the fuse block out and didn't find any open circuits, so I'd still have to find switched power somewhere. I'm not a fan of those wire taps, so I started thinking about alternate solutions.

While staring at the fuse diagram, I saw that there was an 'Engine' fuse and thought to myself, "What the hell is that for? The 2F didn't require power to stay running, other than for the spark plugs". I then remembered that the fuel cutoff solenoid for the carb uses switched ignition power. :idea: I measured the current of the black wire (hot) in the fuel cutoff solenoid plug while ignition was on, which read 12.12v. Off, the circuit read .083v, which shouldn't be enough residual power to keep the solenoid open. Wired it up and now my motor switches off with the key!!

IMG_20130105_154602.jpg


Tomorrow I'll reindex the throttle plate and install the stage two fuel pin. After that, I need to install the gauges and finish putting the interior back together.
 
Congrats on the engine swap! I just went through and got caught up on everything. I didn't even realize you had moved down from NY! Now that your right around the corner we'll have to get together. I don't get to see other 4bt's often (ok- I've only seen one other) so it's a morale boost for me. Also, if you haven't sold that rear full-floated I know somebody who wants one. :D
 
Congrats on the engine swap! I just went through and got caught up on everything. I didn't even realize you had moved down from NY! Now that your right around the corner we'll have to get together. I don't get to see other 4bt's often (ok- I've only seen one other) so it's a morale boost for me. Also, if you haven't sold that rear full-floater I know somebody who wants one. :D

Thank you sir! If I end up going to VA beach again this coming summer, I'll make sure to hit you up!

4BT cruisers are relatively rare. I haven't driven mine much yet but with some key fixes this week, she'll be good to go in no time.

If you find yourself in or driving through Raleigh make sure to let me know!
 
Got some work done on Moonshine today. Installed a new battery, made a new longer and larger gauge main ground, replace the split front brake line and bled the brakes.

DieHard Platinum P-2:




I then sought out to put the fuel cutofff solenoid on switched ignition power. I pulled the fuse block out and didn't find any open circuits, so I'd still have to find switched power somewhere. I'm not a fan of those wire taps, so I started thinking about alternate solutions.

While staring at the fuse diagram, I saw that there was an 'Engine' fuse and thought to myself, "What the **** is that for? The 2F didn't require power to stay running, other than for the spark plugs". I then remembered that the fuel cutoff solenoid for the carb uses switched ignition power. :idea: I measured the current of the black wire (hot) in the fuel cutoff solenoid plug while ignition was on, which read 12.12v. Off, the circuit read .083v, which shouldn't be enough residual power to keep the solenoid open. Wired it up and now my motor switches off with the key!!



Tomorrow I'll reindex the throttle plate and install the stage two fuel pin. After that, I need to install the gauges and finish putting the interior back together.


Johnny,

How did the 65 group battery fit in the stock tray? I have a 27 in Marley now and I'm about to go for a dual set-up. I was looking at the 34s but I like the 930 CCA aspect of the 65 vs the 850 CCA of the 34 especially with a dual set up and the price is the same.... :grinpimp:

J
 
Johnny,

How did the 65 group battery fit in the stock tray? I have a 27 in Marley now and I'm about to go for a dual set-up. I was looking at the 34s but I like the 930 CCA aspect of the 65 vs the 850 CCA of the 34 especially with a dual set up and the price is the same.... :grinpimp:

J

It fit with room to spare. It's a no-brainer to install a group 65. I haven't put the hold-down on yet, but I don't expect to see a problem there either.

I can get some closer pictures of the fitment if you'd like.
 
It fit with room to spare. It's a no-brainer to install a group 65. I haven't put the hold-down on yet, but I don't expect to see a problem there either.

I can get some closer pictures of the fitment if you'd like.

After reviewing the dimensions, the 27 is larger than the 65 so I think that will be the route I go.. 65 group X2 :grinpimp:

Thanks Johnny

J
 
After reviewing the dimensions, the 27 is larger than the 65 so I think that will be the route I go.. 65 group X2 :grinpimp:

Thanks Johnny

J

No problem man!
 
It fit with room to spare. It's a no-brainer to install a group 65. I haven't put the hold-down on yet, but I don't expect to see a problem there either.

I can get some closer pictures of the fitment if you'd like.

It will be about a inch short. for a temp (perm) solution i put a 3/4" piece of wood under mine.
 
It will be about a inch short. for a temp (perm) solution i put a 3/4" piece of wood under mine.

Cool man, thank you! I've got a couple of pieces sitting in my garage ( if I can find them ). I envision a cut piece of 3/4" being the temp solution, then the permanent solution is that same cut piece of wood painted black :D
 
Havent checked in here in awhile... things are looking good!

Thanks Zach!


Got some progress done last night. Got my gauges installed on top of the dash and modified my AC box to fit with my floor modifications. Didn't have to trim too much and filled the gap in with two layers of adhesive foam. Got the blower motor and AC box reinstalled after that.

Today my Tiny Tach should be delivered, so I'll work on getting that put on the gauge cluster. I'll start working on the wiring for the Tiny Tach as well as the boost and pyro gauges and maybe even get the dash installed.

Where are you guys tapping into the harness to get signal for the gauge backlights?

IMG_20130108_200153.jpg


IMG_20130108_213757.jpg
 
I tagged into the instrument cluster's gauge lights so that the new gauges would dim with the old gauges.

If I were to redo the mounting of my gauge pod on my dash I'd simply use Velcro to hold it in place instead of putting a screw in it. I do like mine in that spot.
 
I tagged into the instrument cluster's gauge lights so that the new gauges would dim with the old gauges.

If I were to redo the mounting of my gauge pod on my dash I'd simply use Velcro to hold it in place instead of putting a screw in it. I do like mine in that spot.

Tagged into as in you used one of those vampire clips? I thought about that, but wanted to know if there was a better way.

Used screws with speed nuts on the back side so I could put some good tension on the gauge pod to eliminate vibrations. I don't want to have to pull this dash out ( again ) for a while!
 

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