Downside is when the bearings go out next season after they hammered on it too much...
Mini Tractors - lets see um (5 Viewers)
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I think this thread needs a poll.
I am about to take custody of 35 acres of woods in NW GA. I can not decide what I need v what I should afford. We have all the major brands available here and I have of course been looking at used. I do not intend to need anything huge but want to move dirt, dig holes, drag trees, etc. I can't decide on an appropriate model or size that gives me the best bang for buck
I am about to take custody of 35 acres of woods in NW GA. I can not decide what I need v what I should afford. We have all the major brands available here and I have of course been looking at used. I do not intend to need anything huge but want to move dirt, dig holes, drag trees, etc. I can't decide on an appropriate model or size that gives me the best bang for buck
Dunbar
SILVER Star
Hugh,
Spend some time over on Orange Tractor Talk OTT and on Tractor by Net TbN. I spent quite a bit of lurking time on those before deciding on my Kubota L2501. There will be parameters that will help bracket what is your best fit. Forest and hills vs fields and brush etc. I looked used but it made total sense to buy new with zero % financing on the tractor, hydraulic remotes, and several attachments all on the same deal. I also was looking to avoid some of the Tier 4 emmissions stuff that could cause problems down the road.
Spend some time over on Orange Tractor Talk OTT and on Tractor by Net TbN. I spent quite a bit of lurking time on those before deciding on my Kubota L2501. There will be parameters that will help bracket what is your best fit. Forest and hills vs fields and brush etc. I looked used but it made total sense to buy new with zero % financing on the tractor, hydraulic remotes, and several attachments all on the same deal. I also was looking to avoid some of the Tier 4 emmissions stuff that could cause problems down the road.
Thanks for the tip. A buddy in NC bought a Kubota last year. It is larger than a residential model and said by not buying one of those compact tractors he got more bang for the buck.
I have been watching for the 0% sales. They advertised thebheck out of them when I was in VA but I am not seeing the ads down in GA. I have to keep an eye out.
I so think I need a backhoe attachment but those really boost the price.
I have been watching for the 0% sales. They advertised thebheck out of them when I was in VA but I am not seeing the ads down in GA. I have to keep an eye out.
I so think I need a backhoe attachment but those really boost the price.
100% of what @Dunbar said. Tractor by Net. Up here gently used costs about what new does. I have a 2006ish Kubota L2800DT that I could pretty much sell for what I paid for it 14 years ago (low hours.) I use it pretty much as you describe. It's the Goldilocks model. Allows me to get into the woods, and can lift 1,500 lbs on the front end loader. I've drug entire trees with the 3-point up to the house that had to weigh 5,000 lbs. Have a brush mower. Built a ballast box. Just bought a 3 point chipper/shredder. I've got multiple pics in this thread. Fun stuff.
1911
chupacabra
What those guys said, with the additional advice to buy the most hp you can afford; you can always use more power to lift or dig. I've said many times that mine have been the most useful tools for the money that I've ever had/spent.
I've had two Kubotas (down to one now) and they will do work out of all proportion to their size. To me, Kubota is like the Toyota of tractors; you will pay more up front for one, but the build quality is there and has been said the resale value is good. For 35 acres, I would be looking at the L Series if you can afford it.
A little off topic - but I see Dunbar's is an L25X. I don't follow the business as I'm totally happy with mine. But I was surprised to learn that anything over 25HP now has to meet a higher emissions standard (Blue Def?). So looks like Kubota and I assume others have de-rated the motor. I think I saw the L25X is 24.9 HP or something wink wink. Wonder if there's a mod to bump the HP once you have your hands on it? Just curious. But yes my tractor punches way over it's weight class.
I bought the other 'orange' tractor.....Kioti
Bought new in Oct '10....CK 35....now only with 440 hrs
Shuttle gear driven....4x4......have 23 acres
Has run flawlessly..easy to maintain...wouldn't be with out it.....
Bought new in Oct '10....CK 35....now only with 440 hrs
Shuttle gear driven....4x4......have 23 acres
Has run flawlessly..easy to maintain...wouldn't be with out it.....
I have a Massey Ferguson, made by Iseki in Japan, because we have always had a Massey on the ranch. The Japan made tractors and engines (Kubota, Iseki, Yanmar, Mitsubishi, Sibuhura) are all very well made. They all have been doing it for a long time and have it figured out. I haven't seen a Kioti tractor in the flesh yet, but I think it's a very nice tractor as well and have heard good things about them.
I have the backhoe attachment and granted, it doesn't get used all the time, but when it does, you thank yourself for getting it.
Tractors are so handy for so many things. Once you have one, there will be so many things you will find yourself using it for.
I have the backhoe attachment and granted, it doesn't get used all the time, but when it does, you thank yourself for getting it.
Tractors are so handy for so many things. Once you have one, there will be so many things you will find yourself using it for.
Good advice in this thread. I have been leaning toward Kubota for all the reasons listed and we have a dealer in town that has been around for many years. We close on the property June 1 so it will be after that I make the purchase. The wife thinks I am nuts but that is nothing new.
If I had to do it again, I would have gotten one size bigger and had some remote hydraulics installed. I thought I’d use the Mid mount PTO but will probably never attach a belly mower. I wish I’d have gotten the quick disconnect bucket and a grapple or dedicated pallet forks.
How many attachments do you plan to purchase along with a tractor? Bushhog, tiller, box blade, things like this. Make that decision first then budget in one tractor/implement because perhaps the greatest aggravation with tractor ownership is swapping out attachments.
I get that. I have been through that on some JDs. There are three or four specific items. Loader, back hoe, box blade to.maintain a long driveway are the main ones. Because I have so many trees and large rocks I was considering a grapple. I will not need a mower at all.
Log peavy or something similar is very helpful because you use it to apply gentle leverage to move an implement into place. For example I often need it with a bush hog to slightly move it to one side to align the lower lifts.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
The main thing I would research would be the utility of having the backhoe attachment on hand vs saving up jobs and renting a mini-excavator. There are lots of threads on OTT and TBN on that subject. From what I gather, Mini-excavators are an order of magnitude more capable on digging stumps and holes than the backhoe attachment. A job that would take half an hour with a mini-ex might take 4 hours with the attachment. The backhoe attachment for my L2051 is about $10k. I can rent a mini-excavator for a weekend for less than $500. Most of the long time posters on the forums believe it is better to rent an excavator. However, there is a thread on "What made you glad you purchased the backhoe attachment?". Considerations are, how far to the rental place and how often you need one. There is a lot to be said for having the tool on hand when you need it. How tall are you? The backhoe attachment seat is very close to the controls and if your tall and using it a lot that would be something to consider. I really wanted to have the backhoe but am doing fine without it. For your situation I would lean towards getting it.
Without the need to mow you would probably have the backhoe on most of the time. Since your only rear other implement would be a box blade, or better for driveway maintenance, a land plane grader you will not be switching implements very much except for putting on the backhoe attachment. I have a rear finish mower, a rotary cutter (Bush Hog) a box blade and a BigToolRack. I have a QH15 quick hitch adapter and rear hydraulic remotes to operate the Top and Tilt, TnT, making it much easier to switch between attachments.
On the other end of the tractor I would absolutely get a third function remote and a Quick Attach bucket. My Wicked Root Rake Grapple by EA is my favorite implement and it needs the 3rd function hydraulic to operate. I also use my forks and a front receiver hitch plate. The quick attach vs pinned on bucket gives you the option to quickly switch from one to another front implement.
Tractor size - Some say that they like the smaller tractors for the woods to be able to get in tighter spots. The price difference between the largest B series Kubota and a Standard L series bottom end is about the same. The B series has creature comfort ergonomic controls. There are plastic consoles with cable operated controls vs long attachment rods. Even though I have only 4 acres I opted for the larger physical tractor without the fancy features. More weight means the ability to do more work, even with the same HP.
Engine size - Kubota engines with less than 25 HP meet tier 4 emissions without a DPF, diesel particulate filter. In order to operate a DPF there must be a computer and lots of sensors etc. If I had the need for higher HP I would buy a much larger tractor and dealt with the emissions. I must say that I have not needed any more power than I have with the L2501. Everyone seems to think that it is a sleeper. The same engine overseas is tuned to produce much more power but the one here is de-tuned and makes it's HP at lower RPM. Neither the front loader nor the backhoe attachment depend on HP of the tractor. For me it was no contest between the L2501 and the L3301 and L3901 sporting the DPF. I am more concerned about the electronics associated with the DPF than the unit itself. I just don't want error codes on a tractor.
You need the tractor Day 1. Yes your wife is the crazy one not you. She will reconcile this fact in short order.
Without the need to mow you would probably have the backhoe on most of the time. Since your only rear other implement would be a box blade, or better for driveway maintenance, a land plane grader you will not be switching implements very much except for putting on the backhoe attachment. I have a rear finish mower, a rotary cutter (Bush Hog) a box blade and a BigToolRack. I have a QH15 quick hitch adapter and rear hydraulic remotes to operate the Top and Tilt, TnT, making it much easier to switch between attachments.
On the other end of the tractor I would absolutely get a third function remote and a Quick Attach bucket. My Wicked Root Rake Grapple by EA is my favorite implement and it needs the 3rd function hydraulic to operate. I also use my forks and a front receiver hitch plate. The quick attach vs pinned on bucket gives you the option to quickly switch from one to another front implement.
Tractor size - Some say that they like the smaller tractors for the woods to be able to get in tighter spots. The price difference between the largest B series Kubota and a Standard L series bottom end is about the same. The B series has creature comfort ergonomic controls. There are plastic consoles with cable operated controls vs long attachment rods. Even though I have only 4 acres I opted for the larger physical tractor without the fancy features. More weight means the ability to do more work, even with the same HP.
Engine size - Kubota engines with less than 25 HP meet tier 4 emissions without a DPF, diesel particulate filter. In order to operate a DPF there must be a computer and lots of sensors etc. If I had the need for higher HP I would buy a much larger tractor and dealt with the emissions. I must say that I have not needed any more power than I have with the L2501. Everyone seems to think that it is a sleeper. The same engine overseas is tuned to produce much more power but the one here is de-tuned and makes it's HP at lower RPM. Neither the front loader nor the backhoe attachment depend on HP of the tractor. For me it was no contest between the L2501 and the L3301 and L3901 sporting the DPF. I am more concerned about the electronics associated with the DPF than the unit itself. I just don't want error codes on a tractor.
You need the tractor Day 1. Yes your wife is the crazy one not you. She will reconcile this fact in short order.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Personally I’m all about mini excavators. These out perform a backhoe time and time again.
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Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
I do enjoy my Massey 1529 farm tractor but so does my dog Reload.
Thanks for taking the time to type all that. I read every word and found it very helpful.
I had considered an older used tractor due to the electronics in newer ones to take advantage of a bigger engine but as we all know, you can never know what a PO did (or did not do) to an older vehicle. As mentioned before, with the 0% incentives and a warrantee, it seems unwise to by used.
I was trying to justify the backhoe attachment but you guys may have talked me out if it.
I am hoping to get more into my woodworking when I retire in a couple years. Having something that can handle logs is important. I anticipate moving quite a bit of gravel and topsoil as well. Pulling up a few stumps.
I have a few jobs I anticipate needing an excavator or backhoe for. None will happen at the same time. But you guys are right, if it was 5 weekend jobs it would be less than half or even a quarter of the attachment. I could always buy one latter if I found it to be a necessity. Once I get a relationship with my dealer, who knows, maybe even less.
I had considered an older used tractor due to the electronics in newer ones to take advantage of a bigger engine but as we all know, you can never know what a PO did (or did not do) to an older vehicle. As mentioned before, with the 0% incentives and a warrantee, it seems unwise to by used.
I was trying to justify the backhoe attachment but you guys may have talked me out if it.
I am hoping to get more into my woodworking when I retire in a couple years. Having something that can handle logs is important. I anticipate moving quite a bit of gravel and topsoil as well. Pulling up a few stumps.
I have a few jobs I anticipate needing an excavator or backhoe for. None will happen at the same time. But you guys are right, if it was 5 weekend jobs it would be less than half or even a quarter of the attachment. I could always buy one latter if I found it to be a necessity. Once I get a relationship with my dealer, who knows, maybe even less.
