Hate to see the backhoe go - but when you're spending more time fixing than using it it might be time.
Edit - I missed the orange backhoe the first time. Nice!
Edit - I missed the orange backhoe the first time. Nice!
Mini Tractors - lets see um
- Thread starter AdventureToolCompany
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2006
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 1,650
- Location
- Boulder County, Colorado
- Website
- www.adventuretoolcompany.com
- Thread starter
- #182
yep....going to need a set of chains if I keep taking the kubota down the hill to clear the shooting range....momma and the sammi had to come and pull me up the icee stretch...again...
View attachment 2228369
View attachment 2228369
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2006
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 1,650
- Location
- Boulder County, Colorado
- Website
- www.adventuretoolcompany.com
- Thread starter
- #183
Clearing a route to get to the beach chairs for a cold one.....
The gray box on the left side of the ROPS was a plastic tool box mounted on a piece of steel clamped to the roll bar. It came from the dealer like that. In theory a good idea but I mangled it on a tree pretty quickly and it’s not on there any more.
I have a trick. My kubota currently lives up behind my house in one of those heavy duty shelter logic tents. Even with its 4wd and diff locked it’s often too steep and to slippery. So I back up the hill and then I use the flip of the bucket to push the tractor up the hill. After the first couple tries you get the hang of it and can move pretty quickly.
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2006
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 1,650
- Location
- Boulder County, Colorado
- Website
- www.adventuretoolcompany.com
- Thread starter
- #186
Thanks for the suggestion. I actually tried that, except I was facing forward and used the FEL bucket but, it was so icy that ever time I went to reset the bucket I’d go sliding back down the trail and towards the edge of an embankment.
The last time I did this (I never seem to learn....) I did back up the hill and used the backhoe to pull me up. This time it was just too icy to even turn around. thanks!
Without chains all these small tractors are pretty scary when it comes to hills and ice or well packed hard snow. I've had a few luge run experiences where I was more suggesting where the tractor should go. Chains were on the list for this winter but then we have not had a lot of snow so far. I've only needed to clean snow twice. I of course have just doomed myself to a record snow fall in the coming months
Without chains all these small tractors are pretty scary when it comes to hills and ice or well packed hard snow. I've had a few luge run experiences where I was more suggesting where the tractor should go. Chains were on the list for this winter but then we have not had a lot of snow so far. I've only needed to clean snow twice. I of course have just doomed myself to a record snow fall in the coming months
I have chains for both the front and rear tires. I agree - once you make a luge run with a tractor, you either get chains or wear brown underwear...
Today, months later after accepting defeat, I towed to the shop to have the stump jumper pulled.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
Let us know what the results are. I spent an hour and a half running my RCR1860 today. I know the clutch is working because it slipped when needed. I also managed to kill the engine about 3 times on very short stumps. Once I have to adjust my TnT as well as lifting the 3 point to get it disengaged from the stump/ground in order to get re-started. Brush Hogging is a violent task.
I'm facing a similar issue with pulling the flywheel from my Bobcat. The shroud keeps you from getting behind the flywheel and the flywheel has to be removed to get at the bolts to remove the shroud. Umm... I've tried a variety of penetrating oils, tapping on the shaft (which is the end of the crankshaft, so I don't want to beat on it too hard), heat, and trying to grab onto the fins with a modified vice grip slide hammer I put together.
The suggestion has been made to just cut the shroud and then weld it back together. It might come to that. I watched the video you posted about welding the cage to the stump jumper to apply a jack. I'm not sure about welding to the flywheel, though. The FSM states to remove the nut (which was a bear itself) and then the flywheel just slides off. Yeah - about that - maybe if it hasn't been on there for forty years it will slide right off...
Yes. No problem getting the nut off. I had the bush hog tilted vertical, chained to the front bucket of the tractor, an FJ60 chained to rear of the tractor as an anchor, with a second FJ60 with 12k winch, pulling on the stump jumper. I had a lot of tension on it and could see it deflecting but it would not release. Off to the Kubota shop where I bought it. I should hear something back next week.
I'd be curious if they'll let you know how they ended up removing it. I'm going to look at the flywheel again today to see if I think welding to it is an option.
1911
chupacabra
1911
chupacabra
I have beat the sh!t out of my brush hog in the 14 years I have owned it; it still works but I dread the thought of ever having to work on it.
Mowed the pasture around Mrs. 1911's chicken coop and over the top of the septic leach field today, but not until I fixed my Kubota. Last time I used it (repairing our road), it slowed down and stopped unexpectedly. Turns out, (short story) the spring clip holding the return fuel line onto the tank failed and the return line slipped off, slowly emptying my tank on the ground, and the tractor ran out of fuel for the first time ever. Fixed that return line with a new (better than stock) clamp, and hoped there might be enough fuel in the pump and injectors to start, but no dice. It coughed a couple of times, then nothing.
There is no vent bolt on either the fuel filter or the injection pump, so I haul out the Factory Service Manual, and this is how it says to bleed the fuel system (I copied and pasted this from the FSM):
Brilliant! When the engine won't start because there is air in the injector lines, just start the engine. Why didn't I think of that?
The fuel filter was full. I cracked the nut on the fuel line to the injector pump and cranked it until fuel came out. Then I cracked the #1 injector fuel line until fuel came out. Tractor immediately tried to start but would not stay running. Cracked the #2 injector fuel line, and the tractor started but ran rough. Cracked the #3 injector fuel line and then it ran fine. So now I now how to bleed/prime a dry Kubota, no thanks to the FSM.
Mowed the pasture around Mrs. 1911's chicken coop and over the top of the septic leach field today, but not until I fixed my Kubota. Last time I used it (repairing our road), it slowed down and stopped unexpectedly. Turns out, (short story) the spring clip holding the return fuel line onto the tank failed and the return line slipped off, slowly emptying my tank on the ground, and the tractor ran out of fuel for the first time ever. Fixed that return line with a new (better than stock) clamp, and hoped there might be enough fuel in the pump and injectors to start, but no dice. It coughed a couple of times, then nothing.
There is no vent bolt on either the fuel filter or the injection pump, so I haul out the Factory Service Manual, and this is how it says to bleed the fuel system (I copied and pasted this from the FSM):
Brilliant! When the engine won't start because there is air in the injector lines, just start the engine. Why didn't I think of that?
The fuel filter was full. I cracked the nut on the fuel line to the injector pump and cranked it until fuel came out. Then I cracked the #1 injector fuel line until fuel came out. Tractor immediately tried to start but would not stay running. Cracked the #2 injector fuel line, and the tractor started but ran rough. Cracked the #3 injector fuel line and then it ran fine. So now I now how to bleed/prime a dry Kubota, no thanks to the FSM.
$170 later and the bush hog has been repaired. The total also includes replacing the two seals of the gear box. I did not have the opportunity to speak with anyone in the shop that worked on it but the guy that loaded it said, "they beat on it." I guess they had a larger hammer than I did. 
Shop time was 1.5 hrs.
Shop time was 1.5 hrs.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
When beating on your own machines with a BFH you take a modicum of care. Shop monkeys beating on a customers machine beat until it yields without worry. They can always grab a new part to replace they one they destroyed, and charge the customer for it.
I was close to the point of using a grinder to cut it off.