Metal Tech Cage and Trail Max II seat for the family

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Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Threads
6
Messages
109
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Hey all,

I put a Metal Tech family cage in my 40 last fall and I am very happy with how it turned out. Want to be able to take both of my kids (5 and 3 years old) in the Cruiser and feel like they are going to be reasonably safe. I have been taking them one at a time with their car seat in the front seat since my daughter was born. They love it, but it will be fun to get the whole family in there.

The 40 before the new cage.

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My cousin is a professional welder and helped me out with it. After reading a lot of posts here, I was pretty anal about getting the fit just right so I could roll my windows down, remove the windshield knobs, etc… We had it tacked together and everything looked great. Took it to the shop to weld it up, brought it back, put it in and couldn’t get the windows down. Doh! Did a little adjusting with which bolts get tightened up first and it is better. I have to push it a bit, but it works. Anyone know of a slightly shorter window crank that would fit?

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Overall, I am really happy with the results.

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Definitely feel like the kids will be safer. Went with the front and rear frame tie-ins and the grab bars. I didn’t want to cut the wheel well supports, so I bought some 1.5x3” steel to build spacers. (see the pics) I think 1x3 would have done the trick, but the steel supplier I went to didn’t have it. We were moving pretty fast when we put together the frame tie-ins and I didn’t think about the fact that I wouldn’t be able to paint the tops of the custom tie-ins. Not sure how long that setup will last before it rusts out. I tried to spray a lot of paint up there, but… Not sure that I have a whole lot of options at this point to get at them other than cutting them out or removing the tub. Also not sure if the bolts need to be trimmed so the wheels don’t catch on them. Guess I should jack one wheel up to see what the clearance looks like. May have to use shorter bolts and sink the nuts into the steel.

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Didn’t go with the overhead bars and I am starting to wonder if I should have. I don’t wheel real hard, but every now and then I get into that situation where a I am really happy to have a good roll cage. Any thoughts on those?

Really liked the finish on ouroutdoorfamily’s cage, so I PM’d him to find out what he used. Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating was the ticket. Cleaned the cage up well (grinder and acetone) and put three coats on. Looks good and seems to be holding up pretty well. Only issue is dirty boots or hands leave a lot of dirt on the cage, and I don’t think it will be very easy to clean up.

I have noticed that the cage seems to shimmy when I am driving down the road. Not sure why it does that, but it is distracting and I worry about it rubbing against my dash pad over time. Any ideas?

Just got a Bestop Trailmax 2 (part number 39435-15) from Summit Racing. Going to go with the 6” seatbelt extension bracket from Wesco Performance for the front seat mounts. Now looking at seatbelts and trying to decide what to buy. I really like the idea of snap ends http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/ofsebe.html so I can remove the seatbelts really easily when I fold and tumble the seat, but I am not quite sure how to mount the eyelet to the roll cage. Don’t really want the eyelet going through the tube, as it will cause issues with the soft top (they aren’t long enough either). Don’t want to run it over the seat and to the floor as this won’t work when the kids get bigger. Thinking I may have to fab up a bracket and weld it to the cage. Looking for ideas here.
 
A couple of tie ins between the windshield and the front hoop would likely resolve the shimmy. As for the clearance, how about usiing a come along to tweak the front legs a hair? They've likely warped a bit when they were being welded... Even a ratchet strap to pull them together while you bolt them down might help.

If that doesn't work, I can PM you my address, and the cage will fit great in my 74 with thinner doors. :cheers:
 
The snap ends look cool... Although their disclaimer makes me worry a bit about having kids use them, and their security.
 
Every belt manufacturer is going to have that kind of disclaimer. It's a rule they all follow in this law-suit happy environment we live in.

Pauly, nice cage. As for the shimmy, mine does the same thing but I am not that concerned as mine is pretty much a trail rig and no where near as nice as yours. If you do find a solution though, I would like to see what it is. I do have the overhead spreader bars in mine as I wanted as much structural integrity as I could get. And as for the snap ends on the belts, you could just weld tabs to the inside of the cage to connect them to where they wouldn't interfere with the top. :cheers:
 
bikersmurf, thanks for the ideas about pulling the A pillars in with a strap. Will have to give it a try. The shimmy is in the cage, so I think tying it to the windshield frame would just make the windshield shake. If I just can't get it, I will shoot you a PM ;)

Bang Bang, interesting that your cage has the shimmy too. I may try to call Metal Tech. Your comment on putting a tab on the cage was one of those duh moments for me. I was so engrossed in getting the eyelet bolted to my frame, I didn't even consider just welding something on. Guess that is one of great reasons for putting a question up on this forum. :cheers:

lcwizard, is there not enough rigidity there? Seems to me like the frame tie ins would make this thing pretty stout.

I had been wondering if I have a shimmy in my truck somewhere that is too high of a frequency for me to notice (with all the other feedback coming at me), but that I can see when I am watching my cage.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
There's too much distance from floor to top of windshield. A dash bar will stabilize the front hoop and stop the shimmy. If you notice the mid and rear hoops don't have that same shake. Same happens when people try to build external cages with pillars that are unsupported for over four feet. After a couple hundred cages I'm kinda familiar with this
 
I have noticed that the cage seems to shimmy when I am driving down the road. Not sure why it does that, but it is distracting and I worry about it rubbing against my dash pad over time. Any ideas?

my cage shimmies exactly between 52 and 63 mph - my solution ? go faster :doh: :steer: in my truck, it's totally smooth sailing after 65

I have no idea why it does so at precisely a given speed, but it's totally predictable and it has been doing so since I got it - even reinforcing the rear mounts with larger plates under the fenderwells didn't change that :meh:

my cage is not tied into the frame currently, but I will get that taken care of soon - will report what it does to the shimmy
 
<quote >I have noticed that the cage seems to shimmy when I am driving down the road. Not sure why it does that, but it is distracting and I worry about it rubbing against my dash pad over time. Any ideas?


A dash bar just above the pad will solve that

Harmonics/resonance. Has anyone ever tried a piece of rubber under the mounting plates (isolator) to remidy issue? Just wondering.
 
CLAUDIA the shimmy is from your tires either not 100% balanced or aligned 100% that is the only thing that could make it go away by going faster or slower.
 
nope, not to do with tire balancing or air pressure - happens regardless

fireman is right on the harmonics of it all - with as floppy a tub as mine has been, things like this are going to happen :doh:

and since I can drive out of it, has only been of minor concern :meh: :hillbilly:
 
Mine had a shimmy around 50, it was from tweaked rims. Newer rims and tires have solved it... Now, even with a basic family cage, there isn't a visible one.

I'd be putting it on axle stand and being sure the rims run true. A local mudder had drum mounting bolts which weren't flush which caused a shake.
 
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Timely thread. I recently installed both a Trailmax II rear seat and an MT profile cage. I notice a slight vibration but what I really notice is a new squeak from the windshield frame.
 
I really like the idea of snap ends http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/ofsebe.html so I can remove the seatbelts really easily when I fold and tumble the seat, but I am not quite sure how to mount the eyelet to the roll cage. Don’t really want the eyelet going through the tube, as it will cause issues with the soft top (they aren’t long enough either). Don’t want to run it over the seat and to the floor as this won’t work when the kids get bigger. Thinking I may have to fab up a bracket and weld it to the cage. Looking for ideas here.

I just went thru the same discussion with seat belts. Why have a fold and tumble if it can't fold and tumble, right?

My plan is to weld a piece of flat stock across the bottom of the seat and mount three harnesses to it. I searched for a seat that could accommodate three kids and I kept seeing the Little Passengers seats for $700 -$1,000 depending on options. Those seats are roughly 40" across. Then I saw the Bestop Trailmax seat and it's 41" across. I'd only ever seen them set up with two seat belts and wondered why no one ever tried three seat belts. I ordered one and had three of my kids test it out. They fit comfortably. I'll post some pics when it's finished. The arrows are where the harness will be attached.

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I just went thru the same discussion with seat belts. Why have a fold and tumble if it can't fold and tumble, right?

My plan is to weld a piece of flat stock across the bottom of the seat and mount three harnesses to it. I searched for a seat that could accommodate three kids and I kept seeing the Little Passengers seats for $700 -$1,000 depending on options. Those seats are roughly 40" across. Then I saw the Bestop Trailmax seat and it's 41" across. I'd only ever seen them set up with two seat belts and wondered why no one ever tried three seat belts. I ordered one and had three of my kids test it out. They fit comfortably. I'll post some pics when it's finished. The arrows are where the harness will be attached.

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41" seems narrow for 3 car/booster seats... The trailmax seams ideal size wise for a 40. I'd like a better rear bench, but seating for 3 is required.

Let us know how it works out.:cheers:
 
Theres more than just tires that can cause a shimmy at certain speeds/RPMs... Like pointing your pinion to high with a DC rear shaft = 65MPH earthshake.
All vehicles have some vibration, but a lifted FJ40 on bigger tires and a soft/bikini or no top is especially prone to it. Also, there is some optical illusions happening where the windshiel frame and roll cage move out of synch which screws with your eyes.
 
41" seems narrow for 3 car/booster seats... The trailmax seams ideal size wise for a 40. I'd like a better rear bench, but seating for 3 is required.

Let us know how it works out.:cheers:

I thought so too. I am no longer using booster seats but three 10-12 year olds fit comfortably.
 
SouthB, how will you tie in the rear of the seat? Whatever you tie in with will have to take all of the weight and force of the kids in a frontal impact. That cross bar and tie ins will need some beef...

Pete
 

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