Builds Meet “Marge” our new Piggy (2 Viewers)

[jestlurnin]

Thanks Bob! Can you confirm or deny that the larger electrical connection (not the one that actually connects to the carb connection) has had a wire cut? I attempted to measure voltage at that connection with the key in the on position and got nada but the leads on my multimeter are super short and I’m not sure I was getting good contact.

 

[bobm]

Not good with electrical!! When i pushed down on that wire it started and never had that problem again.

 

[MacDaddyRabbit]

Thanks Bob! Can you confirm or deny that the larger electrical connection (not the one that actually connects to the carb connection) has had a wire cut? I attempted to measure voltage at that connection with the key in the on position and got nada but the leads on my multimeter are super short and I’m not sure I was getting good contact.

Not sure but I don't think that's the correct connection from the firewall (the two wire morphed down to a single wire..)... I'm going to my garage today and I'll check.. and get some pics... both are 77's and I believe them both to be pretty OEM wiring so maybe .... later today... I'm pretty certain you should be looking for a single wire connection ... and the OEM connector is green if memory serves me (big question there .. grins)

So, I think the green single connector held in your hand is correct, but the double wire morphed down to one is wrong... but...I'll check

 

[bobm]

Pretty sure the large green 1 is correct. Lot of threads on the 2f fuel cutoff. All point to that. Carb i bought for 78 had it also.

 

[bobm]

Wish i had better pics

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Nice carb Bob. Where'd ya get it?

 

[jestlurnin]

Pics are great Bob. It looks like the wire going through the firewall to the carb connection comes out of the same hole that the choke cable comes out of. If Macdaddyrabbit confirms that routing it looks like I might be digging into my dash to try and find the dang thing. The wires in my pictures above originate from the big loom coming through the firewall near the drivers side fender.

This 55 was rewired to some extent at some point. It has aftermarket gauges and all the wiring is wrapped in a “fuzzy” like tape that is definitely not OEM.

I’m not good at electrical either but I’m hell bent on putting this thing back to OEM one step at a time. I need reliability if I’m gonna be driving this thing 3+ hours to camp and adventure.

 

[jestlurnin]

On a side note…. had a treat show up from overseas. The heater valve was a bit sticky on Marge and since these seem to be long gone I figured I’d get it for when I need it if I need it.

 

[bobm]

Nice score

 

[bobm]

Nice carb Bob. Where'd ya get it?

Cruiser parts. Sullivan NH. Non US i believe. They have like 8 different types

 

[RUSH55]

What does the book show?

 

[MacDaddyRabbit]

Not sure but I don't think that's the correct connection from the firewall (the two wire morphed down to a single wire..)... I'm going to my garage today and I'll check.. and get some pics... both are 77's and I believe them both to be pretty OEM wiring so maybe .... later today... I'm pretty certain you should be looking for a single wire connection ... and the OEM connector is green if memory serves me (big question there .. grins)

So, I think the green single connector held in your hand is correct, but the double wire morphed down to one is wrong... but...I'll check

I'll get some pics up in a bit re the carb electrical lead.. Until then,
Locate the small bundle loom coming out on the driver's side firewall and follow it along the top of the inner fender wall until it partly separates, with a section going down to a fender strap under the brake booster.. both a red wire and a black wire come out of the OEM loom ,, and the red wire (on both my 77's) goes to the bottom of the brake booster fluid bowl (activates the alarm/light when low)...
The black wire is the wire that goes to the carb connection...
SO .... I'll get pics up in a bit...

Is your truck originally from Cal?

 

[MacDaddyRabbit]

I'll get some pics up in a bit re the carb electrical lead.. Until then,
Locate the small bundle loom coming out on the driver's side firewall and follow it along the top of the inner fender wall until it partly separates, with a section going down to a fender strap under the brake booster.. both a red wire and a black wire come out of the OEM loom ,, and the red wire (on both my 77's) goes to the bottom of the brake booster fluid bowl (activates the alarm/light when low)...
The black wire is the wire that goes to the carb connection...
SO .... I'll get pics up in a bit...

Is your truck originally from Cal?

 

[MacDaddyRabbit]

 

[MacDaddyRabbit]

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[MacDaddyRabbit]

View attachment 3007236

In the above pic follow the green plug w the black wire I'm holding down ... it exits out of a heat resistant tubing along w a red wire, and those both travel into the loom up the driver's fender wall and joins into the loom that also goes to the voltage regulator (forward) and backward into the firewall below the master clutch cylinder... hope this helps..

Pics are of both trucks... identical wiring... one of the green female plugs has been replaced w a white plug..

 

[bobm]

Engine is Filthy you need to clean it up

 

[jestlurnin]

@MacDaddyRabbit description and picture are amazing. I’m headed to the shop tomorrow to try and sort this out and everything you provided is going to be a massive help. I have a vague memory of those wires you pointed out.

Stay tuned! Thank you again.

 

[jestlurnin]

@MacDaddyRabbit to the rescue again!! Between @ToyotaMatt holding my hand and supplying parts (Macdaddyrabbit also supplied a crucial parts piece of the puzzle) and Macdaddyrabbits pictures I located the black wire that hooks up to the fuel cut solenoid. Like I said Marge has been rewired to some degree at some point and the fuel cut solenoid wire was taped up in the loom on the driver side fender. Checked for 12 volts with the key in the on position , Threw a new spade connector on (the city racer carb connector didn’t fit the OEM connector) connected it to the carb with key in on position and heard the idle cut solenoid click and she fired up when I turned the key. Lean dropped the carb, had to mess with the timing as well and was able to get the idle down to about 680/690 and the vacuum at about 19!

Once again the Mud/55 community comes threw. Appreciate you guys/gals and all your help.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

@MacDaddyRabbit to the rescue again!! Between @ToyotaMatt holding my hand and supplying parts (Macdaddyrabbit also supplied a crucial parts piece of the puzzle) and Macdaddyrabbits pictures I located the black wire that hooks up to the fuel cut solenoid. Like I said Marge has been rewired to some degree at some point and the fuel cut solenoid wire was taped up in the loom on the driver side fender. Checked for 12 volts with the key in the on position , Threw a new spade connector on (the city racer carb connector didn’t fit the OEM connector) connected it to the carb with key in on position and heard the idle cut solenoid click and she fired up when I turned the key. Lean dropped the carb, had to mess with the timing as well and was able to get the idle down to about 680/690 and the vacuum at about 19!

Once again the Mud/55 community comes threw. Appreciate you guys/gals and all your help.View attachment 3008004View attachment 3008005View attachment 3008007

View attachment 3008006

thanks brother !

always glad to assist a fellow member in any way i can .....

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also , a noteworthy note :


sooner rather then later here part # 87240-60020 will indeed LIVE ONCE Again !


i began this pjct. several months ago , with the input and help of my SOLID MUD BUDDY , @Blastservices

and , the final ICING on the Teq FJ55 cake is coming together rather nicely i may add



so , summery , it's not a question of if , h#ll no !

its simply a question of when : HOUSTON : THE TEq is About to LAND ...........