Marks adapters Hydro Boost Brake Booster (1 Viewer)

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Dec 8, 2010
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Location
Rotorua, New Zealand
Installed 1 of these a couple of months ago. Brake Booster - Hydraulic | Marks 4WD - https://www.marks4wd.com/brakes/hydraulic-brake-booster?wpf_filter_vehicle=toyota-landcruiser-80-series&wpf_fbv=1

Probably the best Brake upgrade I've installed (there have been many).
Pedal feel is instant. Pedal requires very little pressure to start activating. Braking power and performance is on par with a modern vehicle. Pedal is still a little stiff, but certainly not bad. I can now lock all 4 wheels with 37's easily with only about 5 inches of pedal travel. I couldn't lock them beforehand even with full pedal travel and pulling on the steering wheel for dear life.
As always with an 80, bleeding the brakes is a bitch and performance is totally dependent on multiple bleeding sessions.
I've suffered the 'long push' brake pedal for 20 years. Gone through every brake pad/rotor combination on the market. Multiple new master cylinders and 2 different vacuum boosters. I have 2 sets of calipers that i switch out as needed. Gallons of brake fluid bleed through it over the years chasing elusive air bubbles.
Currently running terrain tamer cross drilled and slotted rotors with Power stop pads, braided lines throughout, lspv still installed.

Marks Hydro Booster is worth every cent. I used to have nightmares about not being able to pull up my heavily laden 80.

No change in power steering feel and no change in pedal feel when aggressively using power steering.

Thumbs up from me.
 
Installed 1 of these a couple of months ago. Brake Booster - Hydraulic | Marks 4WD - https://www.marks4wd.com/brakes/hydraulic-brake-booster?wpf_filter_vehicle=toyota-landcruiser-80-series&wpf_fbv=1

Probably the best Brake upgrade I've installed (there have been many).
Pedal feel is instant. Pedal requires very little pressure to start activating. Braking power and performance is on par with a modern vehicle. Pedal is still a little stiff, but certainly not bad. I can now lock all 4 wheels with 37's easily with only about 5 inches of pedal travel. I couldn't lock them beforehand even with full pedal travel and pulling on the steering wheel for dear life.
As always with an 80, bleeding the brakes is a bitch and performance is totally dependent on multiple bleeding sessions.
I've suffered the 'long push' brake pedal for 20 years. Gone through every brake pad/rotor combination on the market. Multiple new master cylinders and 2 different vacuum boosters. I have 2 sets of calipers that i switch out as needed. Gallons of brake fluid bleed through it over the years chasing elusive air bubbles.
Currently running terrain tamer cross drilled and slotted rotors with Power stop pads, braided lines throughout, lspv still installed.

Marks Hydro Booster is worth every cent. I used to have nightmares about not being able to pull up my heavily laden 80.

No change in power steering feel and no change in pedal feel when aggressively using power steering.

Thumbs up from me.
Sounds awesome!! The brakes on these beasts are such a weak link. It can get scary sometimes even in stock configuration with no added weight.
 
Can you see the AC Delco part number on the booster? I'm curious which one they're using. It'd be nice if they just sold the adapters and hoses. My 2500 Suburbans have hydroboost and they stop significantly better than my 80.
 
Can you see the AC Delco part number on the booster? I'm curious which one they're using. It'd be nice if they just sold the adapters and hoses. My 2500 Suburbans have hydroboost and they stop significantly better than my 80.
There is no number on there. From marks website it states that they do machining on the original, so sounds like its not as easy as a direct swap over.
 
Ouch, sure glad I'm happy with my brakes.
That's a lot of coin
 
Installed 1 of these a couple of months ago. Brake Booster - Hydraulic | Marks 4WD - https://www.marks4wd.com/brakes/hydraulic-brake-booster?wpf_filter_vehicle=toyota-landcruiser-80-series&wpf_fbv=1

Probably the best Brake upgrade I've installed (there have been many).
Pedal feel is instant. Pedal requires very little pressure to start activating. Braking power and performance is on par with a modern vehicle. Pedal is still a little stiff, but certainly not bad. I can now lock all 4 wheels with 37's easily with only about 5 inches of pedal travel. I couldn't lock them beforehand even with full pedal travel and pulling on the steering wheel for dear life.
As always with an 80, bleeding the brakes is a bitch and performance is totally dependent on multiple bleeding sessions.
I've suffered the 'long push' brake pedal for 20 years. Gone through every brake pad/rotor combination on the market. Multiple new master cylinders and 2 different vacuum boosters. I have 2 sets of calipers that i switch out as needed. Gallons of brake fluid bleed through it over the years chasing elusive air bubbles.
Currently running terrain tamer cross drilled and slotted rotors with Power stop pads, braided lines throughout, lspv still installed.

Marks Hydro Booster is worth every cent. I used to have nightmares about not being able to pull up my heavily laden 80.

No change in power steering feel and no change in pedal feel when aggressively using power steering.

Thumbs up from me.
Do you have any pics? And do you have an early or late master cylinder?
 
In using a Marks Hydraulic Brake Booster conversion (or similar), the power steering reservoir might be located lower in height than the brake booster. If so, does this cause an issue with bleeding the system?

The installation information posted at the Marks site does not mention relocation of the reservoir as a consideration. What is identified is turning the wheels from full-stop to full stop (with the motor off) multiple times and refilling the reservoir until is stops dropping in level, then start the motor and repeat.

Is the reservoir location relative to the pump the key consideration? I have never worked with power steering systems tied to a hydraulic brake booster before, so I don't have experience to tell me that there is no issue or to be very very careful in how the reservoir is positioned.

Thanks in advance
 
That how the FSM Instruct you to bleed the system.
@ Baldilocks runs Hydro boost brake system and I don’t think he moved the reservoir.
IMO like you said it’s the pump to reservoir orientation that matters.
I think you’re fine.
I’m sure Steve will chime in.
 
Reservoir location should not matter.

I've been driving my '97 with '05+ Superduty Hydroboost for awhile now and it works well. The setup I'm using is $150 and bolts in any 05+ Superduty Hydroboost using either the stock 80 series 1" Master or a Tundra 1-1/16" Master. I prefer the stock master cylinder on my '97 with 33" tires and I prefer using a common as dirt $80 on Ebay Hydroboost as apposed to some custom thing I cannot get anywhere when it leaks.
 
This is on my 2003 Suburban. The hydroboost is much higher than the pump and reservoir.

PXL_20240624_224634121.jpg
 
I have always been interested in the hydro boost setup from Marks but they want a pretty penny for one and they are currently out of stock. With the exchange rate the kit is $1100 US before shipping.
 
Reservoir location should not matter.

I've been driving my '97 with '05+ Superduty Hydroboost for awhile now and it works well. The setup I'm using is $150 and bolts in any 05+ Superduty Hydroboost using either the stock 80 series 1" Master or a Tundra 1-1/16" Master. I prefer the stock master cylinder on my '97 with 33" tires and I prefer using a common as dirt $80 on Ebay Hydroboost as apposed to some custom thing I cannot get anywhere when it leaks.
Can you post some pictures of your set-up?
 
Did you mean to forget the pictures?
 
In using a Marks Hydraulic Brake Booster conversion (or similar), the power steering reservoir might be located lower in height than the brake booster. If so, does this cause an issue with bleeding the system?

The installation information posted at the Marks site does not mention relocation of the reservoir as a consideration. What is identified is turning the wheels from full-stop to full stop (with the motor off) multiple times and refilling the reservoir until is stops dropping in level, then start the motor and repeat.

Is the reservoir location relative to the pump the key consideration? I have never worked with power steering systems tied to a hydraulic brake booster before, so I don't have experience to tell me that there is no issue or to be very very careful in how the reservoir is positioned.

Thanks in advance
When a hydro-booster is installed On an 80 with 1fz-fe, the reservoir does not need to be relocated. As for bleeding the air from the system, following the FSM procedure is great but I have found that doing this procedure and then allowing the vehicle sit over night ensures complete bleeding.
 
View attachment 3662707
Here's the setup in my driver.
View attachment 3662709
Here's the firewall and master adapter. I don't have a good picture of the pedal bushing, sorry.

Wow, gorgeous adapters. Does the Super Duty booster not have the little anti-rotation tab?
I'm considering going back to a Toyota master cylinder as I am so sick of my GM master cylinder lid that leaks fluid all over my engine bay whenever I'm off -road.
 
Wow, gorgeous adapters. Does the Super Duty booster not have the little anti-rotation tab?
I'm considering going back to a Toyota master cylinder as I am so sick of my GM master cylinder lid that leaks fluid all over my engine bay whenever I'm off -road.
It has the tab. It uses a stainless ball bearing instead of the tab.

The Toyota masters works good with hydroboost. I'm using the stock 1" bore 80 series master and it works good. It's not too touchy.
 

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