Marks adapters Hydro Boost Brake Booster

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

This is new to me, but I need it. The brakes on my rig lock up the wheels without any issue, but the travel at the top of the pedal is horrible, and the brake "feel" is horrendous. I get in my 200 and dream about the 80 having a similar pedal feel. Is there a tech thread for how to do the superduty booster mod with the OEM master (I just replaced mine this spring) and where to get those adapters? This looks slick! The Mark's setup is slick, but more than I would spend, and I don't want to go to aftermarket Wilwood. I removed ABS and LSPV a long time ago, am running EBC greenstuff pads with Toyota rotors, and I rebuilt the calipers myself so I know they were done correctly.
 
Last edited:
This is new to me, but I need it. The brakes on my rig lock up the wheels without any issue, but the travel at the top of the pedal is horrible, and the brake "feel" is horrendous. I get in my 200 and dream about the 80 having a similar pedal feel. Is there a tech thread for how to do the superduty booster mod with the OEM master (I just replaced mine this spring) and where to get those adapters? This looks slick! The Mark's setup is slick, but more than I would spend. I removed ABS and LSPV a long time ago, am running EBC greenstuff pads with Toyota rotors, and I rebuilt the calipers myself so I know they were done correctly.

The Superduty hydroboost kits are not quite ready for sale yet. I have a few interesting 80 series products that will release later this summer. They're not ready to ship and I'm not a vendor here yet. I have to thoroughly test, write instructions and get a bunch ready to ship. When that happens I'll do a write up here in the 80 section with links where you can buy.
 
The Superduty hydroboost kits are not quite ready for sale yet. I have a few interesting 80 series products that will release later this summer. They're not ready to ship and I'm not a vendor here yet. I have to thoroughly test, write instructions and get a bunch ready to ship. When that happens I'll do a write up here in the 80 section with links where you can buy.
You should take a bunch of preorders and make a bunch of promises and then just kinda disappear. Then you're allowed your vendor tag.
 
This is new to me, but I need it. The brakes on my rig lock up the wheels without any issue, but the travel at the top of the pedal is horrible, and the brake "feel" is horrendous. I get in my 200 and dream about the 80 having a similar pedal feel. Is there a tech thread for how to do the superduty booster mod with the OEM master (I just replaced mine this spring) and where to get those adapters? This looks slick! The Mark's setup is slick, but more than I would spend, and I don't want to go to aftermarket Wilwood. I removed ABS and LSPV a long time ago, am running EBC greenstuff pads with Toyota rotors, and I rebuilt the calipers myself so I know they were done correctly.

Is it too firm or too soft?
 
Is it too firm or too soft?
Too soft at the top of the stroke. And I've bled several quarts of brake fluid through it both with the Motive, pumping and gravity bleeding. I replaced the master cylinder. It brakes well once it gets to that part of the stroke, and will lock them all up if I try. Not any worse than the other 80's I've owned, but nothing like the pedal feel of a 200.
 
any chance i can get an adapter to use an 80 series master on a 2017 ford 250 hd hydro booster? i have currently a full ford setup and the pedal is HARD due to size of ford MC bore
 
This is new to me, but I need it. The brakes on my rig lock up the wheels without any issue, but the travel at the top of the pedal is horrible, and the brake "feel" is horrendous. I get in my 200 and dream about the 80 having a similar pedal feel. Is there a tech thread for how to do the superduty booster mod with the OEM master (I just replaced mine this spring) and where to get those adapters? This looks slick! The Mark's setup is slick, but more than I would spend, and I don't want to go to aftermarket Wilwood. I removed ABS and LSPV a long time ago, am running EBC greenstuff pads with Toyota rotors, and I rebuilt the calipers myself so I know they were done correctly.
i simply removed the entire booster and mc setup from 80, i cut off the studs from back of ford hydro unit, mocked up the ford super duty to firewall, marked the spots to drill new holes on the ford hydro and drilled and bolted up. i had to cut the brake pedal adapter off my old booster and weld it onto the ford arm for it to attached to brake pedal. and that was it, connect tup brake lines and make new power steering lines from steering box to hydro unit.
 
Last edited:
1719432788348.webp
 
  • Like
Reactions: PIP
Just to join the crowd and put some skin in the game. My 80 series New slotted dimpled front rear rotors, new calipers, Stainless Brake hoses, new master clyinder and dot 4 hi temp build. My brakes on my 94 80 series are better than they where and no where as goos as my 100 brakes same graded rotors, pads, calipers, and dot 4 fluid. I say this good feeling pedal to start and slows down, but step more into it and like getting against a wall not much more braking is happening. 30 MPH stop dry payment can't lock the tires up and get into ABS. So loaded truck makes my a little nervous hi way speeds, slows down fine, but panic stop not happing. Researched big brakes, the that's a rabbit hole to thrown money off in... Front and Rear really narrows options. Wheel size comes into play now. Ceika has kits front and rear for 17 inch wheels and keep OE E brake. ok.. not great reviews on the company. Power Brake yeah for serious coin for the front only! 3400-4400 depending on 16 or 17 inch wheels. Mud member doing he own machining work on Hats and Caliper brackets and use Wilwood mater cylinders and rotors. ok he doesn't do the machining any longer. Another company slip over hub optional rotors on wildwood calipers front and rear over 8000 bucks. yikes

So chasing brake booster options, Dual vacuum one will not fit 1FZ LHD 80 series, ok, now Hydro Boost, have put together your own, Marks quoted me 1477.96 shipped AUS.. Yikes! Sweeting has a new booster with mount 500.00 plus 350-450 hoses... and 90 days to ship product, 1990-1997 80 Series Land Cruiser Hydroboost kit - https://powertrain-integration.com/products/1990-1997-80-series-land-cruiser-hydroboost-kit, this guy has the firewall adapter and OE mater cylinder adapter to use your own 1 inch master clyinder and has a connecting Pin to brake pedal for 159.00 plus a booster, he recommends 05-10 Super Duty Ford 250-350. I bought a Morotcraft Ford New for 185.00 and has the Master clyinder push rod that he claims not all new units come with, so he recommends USED ones. This is the best value for the bucks paid. I ordered two fittings and 1 I may not need from Amazon and a Hose kit from Ebay to fit the Ford Booster. it could for more than that one for 60 bucks. I could throw the hose away and buy new 1000-3000 lbs hose and be ahead just to get the fittings in steel to connect to the Booster and Hose AN 6 fittings tight 90's. Booster arrived today, Here is the Ford Part number... in the Picture. once fittings and hoses arrive I will post the progress of the install.


I going to try the Hydro booster 1st. I have driven a lot of trucks with them. They give good assistance on pedal application. It could be my 80 has a bad booster, why it feels after applying the brake initially it get hard like a wall and this will cure it. It sure can't hurt! I am trying to keep my ABS system in tact, because it works and I have a good pedal feel initially. No sponge to speak of. Bleeding the brakes was a pain to get the sponge out, it took ABS activation to help that.

This is a rabbit hole and can't dump a lot of money into very quickly. I have new 17 inch wheels now and really do not want to change wheels and tires !
Ceika big brakes looks promising, but not if they are not any good. IF the booster doesn't solve the brake problem right off, I will engineer my own brakes and utilize Wildwood parts. a member shared a drawing that maybe I can create a CNC file to have my friend make me the parts on his CNC machine. So a work in progress let's say. For those that are interested the Ford Booster new price is good, the 159.00 price is good, just have to deal with the hydraulic hoses...

take care


My last 5 days research... enjoy

tempImagep4E8PS.webp
 
when i installed my hydro boost my rear calipers were not sliding properly so i had less than desirable braking. serviced the rear and it was like night and day. i had the same "wall" effect you having. have a look at caliper pins on all 4 corners and make sure piston ect moving smoothly
 
when i installed my hydro boost my rear calipers were not sliding properly so i had less than desirable braking. serviced the rear and it was like night and day. i had the same "wall" effect you having. have a look at caliper pins on all 4 corners and make sure piston ect moving smoothly
Appreciate it…

I bought new caliper for both front and rear. Be good to check tho
 
the low PSI output of stock pump is the other limiting factor when u go hydro boost. the marks sized hydro is your best bet. the larger vehciles like the ford ect needs 1500-1800 psi to work properly. our pumps at 1200 max
 
Interesting, Marks 4x4 gets the boosters from the USA I think I read they are AC Delco maybe… 🤔

We see how it goes…

I am planning on keeping load valve, I have the pressure gauges to attach to the calipers to actually read brake pressure and adjust it.

My mini truck I did a rear disc conversion and had to install an adjustable regulated line pressure device to help keep rear end from locking up and swap ends on wet payment.

Trying to keep the bias system in tact for now, and ABS works when tested gravel roads it tracts pretty good in gravel. Front and rear break loose about together.

Like I say a work in progress….

We will see soon enough better, worse or the same.
Just a few fittings to come in “steel” to make up the AN6 pressure hoses.
 
the low PSI output of stock pump is the other limiting factor when u go hydro boost. the marks sized hydro is your best bet. the larger vehciles like the ford ect needs 1500-1800 psi to work properly. our pumps at 1200 max

This is inaccurate.

Ford Superduty power steering runs about 1300 psi. GM trucks use the highest power steering pressure at 1400 psi.

Additionally, all hydroboost units have the exact same internal displacement. Marks unit is an unknown application hydroboost externally modified, but it is internally the same as any other.
 
This is inaccurate.

Ford Superduty power steering runs about 1300 psi. GM trucks use the highest power steering pressure at 1400 psi.

Additionally, all hydroboost units have the exact same internal displacement. Marks unit is an unknown application hydroboost externally modified, but it is internally the same as any other
What's the 80 pump run at ?
 
ok tks for the info, i used chat gpt to find out the ford psi as i couldn't find that info otherwise and thats what it reported.
 
Around 1200 psi.

The early 99-03 7.3 Superduty trucks are also 1200 psi and run hydroboost just fine.
Hydro assist not so much.
 
Just to join the crowd and put some skin in the game. My 80 series New slotted dimpled front rear rotors, new calipers, Stainless Brake hoses, new master clyinder and dot 4 hi temp build. My brakes on my 94 80 series are better than they where and no where as goos as my 100 brakes same graded rotors, pads, calipers, and dot 4 fluid. I say this good feeling pedal to start and slows down, but step more into it and like getting against a wall not much more braking is happening. 30 MPH stop dry payment can't lock the tires up and get into ABS. So loaded truck makes my a little nervous hi way speeds, slows down fine, but panic stop not happing. Researched big brakes, the that's a rabbit hole to thrown money off in... Front and Rear really narrows options. Wheel size comes into play now. Ceika has kits front and rear for 17 inch wheels and keep OE E brake. ok.. not great reviews on the company. Power Brake yeah for serious coin for the front only! 3400-4400 depending on 16 or 17 inch wheels. Mud member doing he own machining work on Hats and Caliper brackets and use Wilwood mater cylinders and rotors. ok he doesn't do the machining any longer. Another company slip over hub optional rotors on wildwood calipers front and rear over 8000 bucks. yikes

So chasing brake booster options, Dual vacuum one will not fit 1FZ LHD 80 series, ok, now Hydro Boost, have put together your own, Marks quoted me 1477.96 shipped AUS.. Yikes! Sweeting has a new booster with mount 500.00 plus 350-450 hoses... and 90 days to ship product, 1990-1997 80 Series Land Cruiser Hydroboost kit - https://powertrain-integration.com/products/1990-1997-80-series-land-cruiser-hydroboost-kit, this guy has the firewall adapter and OE mater cylinder adapter to use your own 1 inch master clyinder and has a connecting Pin to brake pedal for 159.00 plus a booster, he recommends 05-10 Super Duty Ford 250-350. I bought a Morotcraft Ford New for 185.00 and has the Master clyinder push rod that he claims not all new units come with, so he recommends USED ones. This is the best value for the bucks paid. I ordered two fittings and 1 I may not need from Amazon and a Hose kit from Ebay to fit the Ford Booster. it could for more than that one for 60 bucks. I could throw the hose away and buy new 1000-3000 lbs hose and be ahead just to get the fittings in steel to connect to the Booster and Hose AN 6 fittings tight 90's. Booster arrived today, Here is the Ford Part number... in the Picture. once fittings and hoses arrive I will post the progress of the install.


I going to try the Hydro booster 1st. I have driven a lot of trucks with them. They give good assistance on pedal application. It could be my 80 has a bad booster, why it feels after applying the brake initially it get hard like a wall and this will cure it. It sure can't hurt! I am trying to keep my ABS system in tact, because it works and I have a good pedal feel initially. No sponge to speak of. Bleeding the brakes was a pain to get the sponge out, it took ABS activation to help that.

This is a rabbit hole and can't dump a lot of money into very quickly. I have new 17 inch wheels now and really do not want to change wheels and tires !
Ceika big brakes looks promising, but not if they are not any good. IF the booster doesn't solve the brake problem right off, I will engineer my own brakes and utilize Wildwood parts. a member shared a drawing that maybe I can create a CNC file to have my friend make me the parts on his CNC machine. So a work in progress let's say. For those that are interested the Ford Booster new price is good, the 159.00 price is good, just have to deal with the hydraulic hoses...

take care

My last 5 days research... enjoy
You really need to start your own thread with "Powertrain Integration Products (PIP) Hydro Boost" in the title --- people are going think this about the Marks set up.

I have been looking at the PIP setup thinking that when my vacuum booster goes again I would do the swap. PIP seems to make good stuff-- see how much everyone loves the Window Rocket.

But I was wondering why I hadn't seen much talk about it. I would prefer to keep the stock 80 master cylinder so it seems like a good way to go for that reason alone. And the price seems awesome.
 
Back
Top Bottom