You can still get the cylinder with new keys at Toyota. When I got mine I think it was less than $20.Morse_FJ40 said:Yep, I took it down to the local locksmith and for $20 he matched the keys. I need to head backdown there to see if he can get a key for my rear door. I have 3 sets of doors with no keys.
I will take all precautions... be rest assured... you might want to read this thread if you have not seen it as it covers drilling and sawing into gas tanks. seems too be a pretty good consensus on it being safe and doable (following certain procedures) for the everyday kind of guy. also, a pro will be cleaning and lining the tank for me.... I will just be drilling the holes for the sending unit.hi50phd said:Had a gas tank repaired and refinished on my Jensen-Heally. The guy who did it, did all the repairs requiring welding under water. He told me that gas fumes sequester in the rust/flakes and leak out for weeks to months. Explosions may occur for that length of time.
Please be careful.
Or, consider: http://www.gastankrenu.com/how.htm
I 'was' going to do it myself, but this guy will do an acid bath and lining pretty affordably (compared to the time and cost associated with buying the kit and doing it yourself) AND there is a bit of toxic crap left over when you use the do it yourself kits and I do not know of a kind way to dispose of it. I also read the do it yourself kits are not as good at cleaning so I am letting the radi guy do it.peesalot said:eastwood sells the coating you poor in and roll tank around. Seals the usty top half nicely.
so, I got to thinking and wonder if this will work?
if you ran both leads from the sending units on 2 different tanks (your main and the auxillary) to a 2 position turn knob and then from said turn knob on to the post on the after market gas gauge on my dash that is currently setup to read just the main tank, could you not then turn the knob and switch between readings from 2 tanks? NOTE: both tanks would use the same brand/style sending unit made to work with the same style/brand gague on my dash so perfect compatability.
BTW, I know there are cool systems mentioned that with the flip of 1 switch can change tanks and use 1 gas gauge.. but you can see I already have a menchanical handle in place for selecting bewteen my 2 tanks and this setup I purpose, if possible, would only require a $4.00 turn knob.
can anyone with better wiring knowledge confirm if it is infact as simple as adding a turn knob between the gauge and both sending units to make it possible to flip flop between 2 tanks on 1 gauge?
if it is possible.. what type of turn knob configuration do you need? (i.e., SPDT - single pull double throw)
Ok,final installment to finish this off.
Got it boiled and lined very affordablly ($125 total). the lining is some kind of rubbery feeling, blood red material. turned out awesome. I then sanded it up outside, primed it and painted it black. the sending unit (JC Whitney 124229 FUEL LEVEL GAUGE WITH FLOAT) went in with only a small glitch (the pattern for the holes did not line up with the actual holes on the sending unit lip, so I redrillled new hole son the lip rather than the tank and just filled in the old holes with JB Weld on the lip). Used black RTV to make the seal. even built new 12.5" long bolts to hold the tank in place as the old ones were bent and rusted.
Use this tank switch - it works great!
POLLAK® ELECTRIC FUEL TANK SELECTOR VALVES - JCWhitney Truck Parts
Vortec_Cruiser and bsevans thanks. This looks like a nice solution to the switch issue. Can you tell me how was the install? Were the instructions that came with the switch clear and easy to follow. These are important questions for a guy like me who is learning as I go with the build of this rig. BTW I'm still interested in an answer to my earlier post on what exactly wantatic finally did. Thanks.I use the Pollak Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve setup and it is a great system. it switches fuel level senders and will turn one fuel pump on/off. It is only powered when switching from one tank to the other tank. Then it turns off. There is no power required to keep it in one position, unlike a solenoid valve which requires constant power to maintain flow from one tank.
Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve