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man-a-fre auxillary tank question?

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by wantatlc, Mar 20, 2006.

  1. Morse_FJ40

    Morse_FJ40

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    Yep, I took it down to the local locksmith and for $20 he matched the keys. I need to head backdown there to see if he can get a key for my rear door. I have 3 sets of doors with no keys.

    later
    Ryan
     
  2. lingo

    lingo

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    You can still get the cylinder with new keys at Toyota. When I got mine I think it was less than $20.
     
  3. Ian Rogers

    Ian Rogers

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    yeah but they would not match
     
  4. lingo

    lingo

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    My bad, I was thinking rear amby door. He meant rear fuel door. sorry
     
  5. wantatlc

    wantatlc

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    so, I juts now got out the tank. Damn... proved tougher than expected as the PO welded the long bolts to the body on the top side under my rear seat (whcih I then had to take out)! I thought they were just on these reninforcement plates, but it was actaully welded to the body! pictures coming soon.

    BTW, thing sounds like a sand box inside and you can look in and see rust ALL along the top and in the fill tube..

    seems this one has no baffels as I can see across to other side :) which means after all of this I CAN put in the sending unit with no issues.

    UPDATE: washed it out like 5 times with sloshing water. now letting it sit for a few days with fill tube facing up so vapors move out. when I washed it out, a TON of huge rust flakes came out. seem to be from the top (where no fuel hangs out) as lower down looks clean.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    not much to see for now. will get it cleaned, lined, painted, install sending unit (which is where images will benefit I think).
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2007
  6. hi50phd

    hi50phd

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    Had a gas tank repaired and refinished on my Jensen-Heally. The guy who did it, did all the repairs requiring welding under water. He told me that gas fumes sequester in the rust/flakes and leak out for weeks to months. Explosions may occur for that length of time.

    Please be careful.

    Or, consider: http://www.gastankrenu.com/how.htm
     
  7. wantatlc

    wantatlc

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    I will take all precautions... be rest assured... :) you might want to read this thread if you have not seen it as it covers drilling and sawing into gas tanks. seems too be a pretty good consensus on it being safe and doable (following certain procedures) for the everyday kind of guy. also, a pro will be cleaning and lining the tank for me.... I will just be drilling the holes for the sending unit.
     
  8. peesalot

    peesalot

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    eastwood sells the coating you poor in and roll tank around. Seals the usty top half nicely.
     
  9. wantatlc

    wantatlc

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    I 'was' going to do it myself, but this guy will do an acid bath and lining pretty affordably (compared to the time and cost associated with buying the kit and doing it yourself) AND there is a bit of toxic crap left over when you use the do it yourself kits and I do not know of a kind way to dispose of it. I also read the do it yourself kits are not as good at cleaning so I am letting the radi guy do it.
     
  10. wantatlc

    wantatlc

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    BTW, I was able to successfully drill the tank hole today and live to tell the tell. follow the link in post #67 to read about drilling into a tank and what final process I used to make it safe.

    also, I will post up photos soon as I sanded it down, drilled the hole, prepped it to be lined and I also have a photo of the hole I took out with the hole saw to show just how rusty the tank was on the ceiling inside.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2007
  11. wantatlc

    wantatlc

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    final installment to finish this off.

    Got it boiled and lined very affordablly ($125 total). the lining is some kind of rubbery feeling, blood red material. turned out awesome. I then sanded it up outside, primed it and painted it black. the sending unit (JC Whitney 124229 FUEL LEVEL GAUGE WITH FLOAT) went in with only a small glitch (the pattern for the holes did not line up with the actual holes on the sending unit lip, so I redrillled new hole son the lip rather than the tank and just filled in the old holes with JB Weld on the lip). Used black RTV to make the seal. even built new 12.5" long bolts to hold the tank in place as the old ones were bent and rusted.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    sweeet!
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2007
  12. jabxyz

    jabxyz

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    Ok,
    I just found this thread and I wanted to do a re
    cap so that I have clear what you ended up doing.

    1)You have two fuel tanks, a main and an auxiliary.
    2)Each tank has it's own sender unit (identical.)
    3)The two sender units are each wired to a in-dash switch.
    4)The in-dash switch then is connected to the common fuel gauge. You toggle between the senders with the switch thus allowing the gauge to read each tank (one at a time of course)
    5)Each tank has its own electric pump, the electric fuel pump for the auxiliary tank is mounted between the frame rails somewhere as is the tank BTW correct?
    6)The fuel line for the auxiliary tank runs from the aux tank to the pump to: (a) a join in the main fuel line used by the main tank? or (b) directly to the engine ending in the same place as the main fuel line?
    Also a couple of follow-up questions:
    How/where did you vent the auxiliary tank?
    How/where did you place the filler neck?
    Thanks for your time and the info. Just in case you don't check this old thread I'm going to cut and paste this post into a PM as well.:cheers:
     
  13. mustardfj40

    mustardfj40

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    On a related subject, I've just replaced my original aux. skid plate with a Heavy Duty one made by Decker (a vendor at PMC swapmeet) that I have sitting around in the garage for last couple years, the new skid plate is much thicker than the original one:

    [​IMG]
     
  14. jimhendrixx

    jimhendrixx

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    I used a universal sender and it works fine.
     
  15. Vortec_Cruiser

    Vortec_Cruiser

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  16. bsevans

    bsevans Focus on the Journey

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    I use the Pollak Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve setup and it is a great system. it switches fuel level senders and will turn one fuel pump on/off. It is only powered when switching from one tank to the other tank. Then it turns off. There is no power required to keep it in one position, unlike a solenoid valve which requires constant power to maintain flow from one tank.

    Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve
    Fuel Switching Valve 01.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2008
  17. Kofoed

    Kofoed

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    The feul valve shown in the link is a 6-port with three rubber caps, making a "three" port. Napa sells a real three port for carb guys for 3 bucks less. The only ghetto thing about theirs is that it "fits" 5/16 and 3/8 hose..:rolleyes:
     
  18. Vortec_Cruiser

    Vortec_Cruiser

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    Only if you have no fuel return line. ;)
     
  19. jabxyz

    jabxyz

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    Vortec_Cruiser and bsevans thanks. This looks like a nice solution to the switch issue. Can you tell me how was the install? Were the instructions that came with the switch clear and easy to follow. These are important questions for a guy like me who is learning as I go with the build of this rig. BTW I'm still interested in an answer to my earlier post on what exactly wantatic finally did. Thanks.:cheers:
     
  20. Vortec_Cruiser

    Vortec_Cruiser

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    When I purchased my Pollak valve from J.C. Whitney several years ago, it included an excellent installation diagram & narrative. If you need more info on the installation, I can send you a copy of the installation diagram.