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Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by wantatlc, Mar 20, 2006.
Excellent! Good to know for when I TBI my 2F.
When I get my tig I am cutting out the tank so I can use 55 springs with yj flares. I put the filler out the back because every time I was leaning to the passenger side I would spill gas. And thre screw cap filler neck has anti flow back flap and is way easy to put gas in from a j##p can.
Nice pics and a lot of good information.
what size tires are you running? and do the tires come close to rubbing the fuel filler hose if that side was compressed? Also, is the in-line electric pump absolutely necessary or is it more for help? Would the stock fuel pump be strong enough to suck the fuel up from that distance?
does the spare tire carrier interfere when filling up? I really like that filler assembly, gonna have to pick on up. Thanks for posting pics.
On the subject of senders, if the stock sender unit is half the resistance of the aftermarket ones, I wonder how hard it would be to hook up a simple circuit inline to "fool" the gauge into reading correctly. I'm gonna have to talk to a friend who's a lot better at this stuff than I.
No problem with it yet the best mod I have so far. The spare tire carrier is my costum built bumper I will post pics when it is finished because this thing is awsome.
I run 33x12.5 (and as big as I plan to go). I cannot see any rub marks in the filler neck (and it happen to be rubber so it would flex I suppose), but I have not had an issue. it is set back far enough the the travel does not come in contact with the neck.
as for the pump. I think the pump is a must. a few times I have forgotten to flip the electrical pump on and started to bog down, flipped that on and fuel was good to go. Also, this could be further exacerbated if on a steep uphill climb? pump seems reasonable and necessary IMHO.
This would only be a concern if you have an in-tank pump. Otherwise, the tank switching valve is installed between the tanks & the electric fuel pump, where there is no pressure.
Mom has spoken!
wiring 2 tanks to 1 gague?
so, I got to thinking and wonder if this will work?
if you ran both leads from the sending units on 2 different tanks (your main and the auxillary) to a 2 position turn knob and then from said turn knob on to the post on the after market gas gauge on my dash that is currently setup to read just the main tank, could you not then turn the knob and switch between readings from 2 tanks? NOTE: both tanks would use the same brand/style sending unit made to work with the same style/brand gague on my dash so perfect compatability.
BTW, I know there are cool systems mentioned that with the flip of 1 switch can change tanks and use 1 gas gauge.. but you can see I already have a menchanical handle in place for selecting bewteen my 2 tanks and this setup I purpose, if possible, would only require a $4.00 turn knob.
can anyone with better wiring knowledge confirm if it is infact as simple as adding a turn knob between the gauge and both sending units to make it possible to flip flop between 2 tanks on 1 gauge?
if it is possible.. what type of turn knob configuration do you need? (i.e., SPDT - single pull double throw)
Aw shucks. Must not have really been Lingo's mom. What a shame...
Steve-O.. I'd say I have confirmed my tank has NO hole for a sending unit (I was able to get in a very awkward postion under my rig with a flashlight and saw over a frame rail). so, I was curious, if I install my own.. are there baffels in place in these old tanks that would determine where you can cut a hole? I have seen pictures of the newer tanks with the sending unit off to the far right (drivers side)... but wonder on these old ones with no hole if I can place it similarly or will you end up right on top of a baffel and screw yourself? or, are the old ones like this baffel free so I can place the hole about anywhere with no issues?
how did you avoid the baffels? did you just get lucky or did you locate them somehow before making the hole? please advise if you can.
Are you able to look through the filler hole? If it's like mine, I can see the inside of the tank through the hole and see the other end, so I know mine doesn't have any baffles.
I cant see through yet as I have not pulled it down as I am using the gas up in it.(I was trying to plan ahead to order the sending unit)... BUT, it seems the baffels would hang from top down, so if they stop a few inches from the bottom of tank to allow fuel to get to gather and get to the fuel line out... are you sure you would even see them?
If there were baffles, I assumed they would probably go from top to bottom, to give the tank some structural rigidity as well, but have holes or slots to allow gas to pass through without sloshing back and forth. But I could be wrong, since mine doesn't have any.
Mine tank looks almost identical to yours from what I can see, with the fuel filler tube coming out near the top of the passenger side of the tank. Meaning even if the baffles were attached from the top, they should large enough that you'd still be able to see them. The filler tube is pretty wide, I'm able to look inside and see a good portion of the opposite side of the tank. If you had a little mirror, you could probably look at the entire inside if you wanted to.
Sorry but we havent carried these for a few years, and I never really opened one up to check. I looked around for any sort of info on it but came up empty handed. Your best bet is probably do what ducktapeguy did, drop the tank and look in any filler holes with a flashlight to see what you can find.
thanks guys with what I have here, I think the only way is to finish using up the fuel and drop the tank. as soon as I empty the fuel I will be dropping the tank (likely this coming weekend as I burn fuel quick with that Chevy).
so, stay tuned as I will report bakc what I find out about my tank specifically AND I will report the process I use on this project to drop, drill, clean & line, install sending unit and toggle for 2 tanks on 1 gauge all when I am done.
Please keep this thread updated when you finish the project. I'd really like to see how it turns out. Assuming you dont' have to worry about baffles, where are you going to position the sending unit? In the center of the tank? Near the fuel pickup?
I saw your question about the switching the gas gauge, I'd also like to know the answer. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work, and i thought I read on this forum someone has done it (on an 80's series I think). Once you switch it over, the gauge shouldn't know the difference between one sending unit and another, assuming they were both the same. The only problem I can think of is if the auxilliary tank is much deeper than stock, I don't know if a stock sending unit will read correctly.
I will see this thread through until the end. photos and details and all upon completion.
anyway, I plan on mounting sending unit (ordered it today) similar to man-a-fre's current tanks which is more off to the drivers side corner/edge (if looking down). This will allow me to run less wiring along the drivers side frame rail, past the electric pump and up to the cab. that is the only reason why I plan to put it there.
it appears, as per answers from this topic my 2 tanks will work with 1 gauge using a SPDT switch (which I also got today in a paddle switch configuration... wanted a turn knob, but were impossible to find) between the 2 sending units.
FYI, I am NOT usng the stock sending units or gas gauges. My stock in dash unit never worked and I spent so much time trying to fix it, I just said it one day and got a generic sending/gauge setup from JC Whitney (part #CC124229). this runs my front tank currently and works perfect. you can adjust it to fit the depth of the tank. well, I will be using the SAME sending unit I ordered today (which will just be adjusted to fit a different depth tank) in the rear auxillary tank. this, I will have perfect symbiosis between gas gauge and 2 sending units. ta daaaa!
this is also related
Here is what I did with my tank / filler neck. I hate the old Conferr aluminum neck so I cut and fabbed in another housing so I had matching doors!! Lost the marker lights,... but oh well, and it fills so well now!!! Much better than before.
I will take a pic of my skid plate in the morning!
That's beautiful sheetmetal work, Morse_FJ40. I remember seeing a pic of another rig that did the same thing. It's a great idea. Come to think of it, everyone that discards an FJ40 tub should cut out and save any rust free gas filler sheetmetal & door. Could come in handy.
BTW, is it possible to key match the locks?