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Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by wantatlc, Mar 20, 2006.
Here it is for a 2-tank installation.
Installation was very easy. One point, you need to use a switch like the one on the website I posted. It reverses the 12v polarity. You can buy a complete system that has the switch, switch plate, 6-port valve and connector. You can also get a rocker switch that is labeled AUX & MAIN. The only real difficulty I ran into was making a 1/4" Aluminum mounting plate that picked up existing holes on the frame. I really like the way it turned out. I have never had any issues and it has worked every time. You will not hear it when it operates. Here is a photo of the switch.
Note: You need to install a filter on the supply lines from both tanks prior to the 6-port valve so you minimize contaminates getting into the valve which could block the valve from switching.
A couple questions:
For you guys with the Pollak -
Did you also use just one electric pump between the valve and the aux tank?
Did you by-pass the mechanical pump at all?
Did you block off the "return line from the carb"
Was there no polarity issues with the Toyota gas guage and the switch and/or the JCW universal sender?
I am not running an aux fuel pump only the stock one, it pulls fuel from either tank depending on witch way the valve is set. I have an electric switch that switches the fuel gauge and the valve at the same time, works great.
Sorry I'm not sure , do you mean that the fuel lines from both the main and the auxillary tanks pass through the stock fuel pump?If not how does the stock fuel pump, pump fuel through the auxillary line? It may be clear to others but I'm confused. Thanks for any clarification.
I only use the factory mechanical pump
It is not smart to block off the return line. If you do not use a return line then you do not need a 6-port fuel-switching valve - you would need a 3-port. The switch has no connection to the fuel gauge or sending unit. The output of the sending unit is switched at the valve. The sending unit output is passed through the valve to the fuel gauge. When you flip the switch to change tanks then the other sending unit is passed through to the fuel gauge. The sending units in both tanks have to have the same range of output from empty to full.
I don't think anyone linked this but I was looking through the tech links and found the original instructions for the Confer tank on there. They are also available on pdf in the tech links and print out very well. The second to last page shows where the one baffle is located in these style tanks (if all is equal)
conferr tank instructions
Connections for old Aero tank
Someone might find this info useful. My Aero tank, which I bought about 10 years ago, differed from the diagram in the number of connections it had. The notes on the left side show what my actual connections were.
Dual Filler neck
In my continuing quest to get smarter on this stuff I was trying to figure out the logistics of the filler neck problem, It seems that a number of folks who run dual tanks in 40s also have two filler necks and cuts in the body of the rig the original door and filler neck and another set for the aux tank. Always trying to find an easier way I ran accross some threads and sites which spoke about dual filler necks. Apparently if you ordered the LoneRanger? Lone rider aux tank option on the 80 series a dual filler neck came with the kit. One door, One filler neck that feeds both tanks, just angle the pump nozzle into the tank that you want to fill and squeeze. This sounds like a winner to me. Are any of you guys running this solution, if so what do you think?
You're going to have a real hard time doing that with an FJ40, since the stock filler neck goes in just behind the passenger seat. And the filler for the aux tank is under the body just above the rear axle. I ran my aux tank filler up through the rear passenger fender well between the roll bar mount and the tailgate. I used an aluminum filler cap from a boat tank.
Does the ability to run a dual filler neck then depend on which aux tank you pick, that is to say do all of the various brands and versions of aux tanks have a filler neck that will aim out of the driver's side? If that is the case, how tough would it be to close off the drivers side filler neck hole and pop a new hole on the passenger side of the tank and then plumb a filler neck from the aux tank to the dual filler neck running from the OEM spot? (assuming that sender position and baffles wouldn't be compromised by the new filler neck position) Admitedly the plumbing could get tricky around/above the drive shaft trying to clear everything and keep the right pitch and angle.
The filler on the rear aux tanks is on the passenger side, but the plumbing would not be easy.
I thought so but I wasn't sure. Thanks for clearing that up. I know that this post was originally about the man a fre tank but I wonder if anyone has found the filler neck plumbing a little easier on any of the other tanks that people use?
I would love to see some pics of how folks have setup their rear tank filler neck. I have not seen any picks and I would love to do it right the first time.
This what I did.
Fuel Door Location
Inside the Wheelwell
The Pollak Fuel Switching Valve
This is where I put the switch.
here's mine, I found an old confer unit and modded it to fit......
Don't happen to know what the ohms were on that sender do you?