Awesome... wish you lived a little closer
I'll reiterate this again, even after it's OFF it'll still sew through 1/4" of leather, fingers, bone, or ...
making your own soft top.. because lets be honest.. you've built everything else (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter antFJ
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I'll reiterate this again, even after it's OFF it'll still sew through 1/4" of leather, fingers, bone, or ...
Thanks so much! I ran across the same place but didn't see this. I really appreciate it.
Subscribed. Please give us a durability report down the road and anything you would change in a year or so.
- Thread starter
- #124
siobhan - i purposefully went away from the cotton canvas because of its poor UV resistance and the fact that it is easily damaged from the elements. That being said a good cotton canvas with the right treatment isn't a bad way to go.
just depends on what kind of product you're looking to make in the end
Ok, thanks Ant. What other material would you recommend?
- Thread starter
- #126
not sure
i'm trying out this polyester marine canvas right now but i haven't had it out in the weather yet.
i am by no means an expert - if you want the good info about materials i would talk to JohnnyC
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/159334-canvas-maintenance-oem-soft-tops.html
OCD highly recommended the heavy cotton canvas, the stretching of the material allows for less precise measurements with still a great fit. I am on the fence between Cotton Duck marine treated and Sunbrella marine grade. Have not looked at the stretch of the Sunbrella but I am looking for breath ability and water resistance.
Here is a good link for some comparison of different outdoor fabrics, UV resistance, water resistance breath ability etc. Very good reference.
http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Outdoor Fabric Comparison Chart.pdf
Here is a place that sells canvas, they have 18 ounce, as well as 21, 24 and 30 ounce. They have colored and water resistance treated option but the web site only shows it for 10oz weight. But on the page for the heavier stuff like the 18 oz it says call them for custom color or treatment. So I am planning on calling them to find out about a tan water resistant treated 18 or maybe 24 oz fabric. for the 60 inch 18 oz 25 yard roll it woks out to less then $8 per yard. Just wonder what the cost would be if I did not buy a full roll and had it died and treated. I could also just die it myself and treat it and allow it to shrink before I do a final pattern cut.
Cotton Canvas | Numbered Ducks | By The Roll | Bulk | Wholesale
Here is a good link for some comparison of different outdoor fabrics, UV resistance, water resistance breath ability etc. Very good reference.
http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Outdoor Fabric Comparison Chart.pdf
Here is a place that sells canvas, they have 18 ounce, as well as 21, 24 and 30 ounce. They have colored and water resistance treated option but the web site only shows it for 10oz weight. But on the page for the heavier stuff like the 18 oz it says call them for custom color or treatment. So I am planning on calling them to find out about a tan water resistant treated 18 or maybe 24 oz fabric. for the 60 inch 18 oz 25 yard roll it woks out to less then $8 per yard. Just wonder what the cost would be if I did not buy a full roll and had it died and treated. I could also just die it myself and treat it and allow it to shrink before I do a final pattern cut.
Cotton Canvas | Numbered Ducks | By The Roll | Bulk | Wholesale
In another thread about tops, Trollhole provide this idea regarding straps or no straps to attach top to the rear as well as options for not using those twist attachments on the side. I though I would document it here for people following this.
from trollhole on https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/585213-oem-repro-softtop-question.html
The cleanest look would be bungie cords in a zig zag fashion attached to 6mm metric hooks that are screwed into the holes that normally hold the hard top down. Then the outer flaps that have 1"fiberglass battens in them with Neodymium magnets attached to them just clamp onto the body for permanent but removable seal.
The bungie keeps the top under tension. No need to fuss with twrist locks or straps. And it's clean with no holes.
Magnets have come a long way. Six 1/8x1" magnets glued to the fiberglass down each side will give you 72lbs of clamping force.
Get n52 magnets. They make them in all kinds of sizes. I picked round ones with a hole because I thought it would hold the epoxy better against the fiberglass. I also used some heat shrink tubing over them to seal them as well as a second barrier. They are really strong and very small. I think I paid 1.50 each for them.
Just for giggle I bought a 1"x1" cube of this. It takes 150lbs to separate it from steel. Crazy strong. I'm going to use these small magnets in everything I design on the top. Even when I roll up the windows there will be magnets that hold it up. Not straps. Also goes for the top hold down loops. These magnets will replace those.
from trollhole on https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/585213-oem-repro-softtop-question.html
The cleanest look would be bungie cords in a zig zag fashion attached to 6mm metric hooks that are screwed into the holes that normally hold the hard top down. Then the outer flaps that have 1"fiberglass battens in them with Neodymium magnets attached to them just clamp onto the body for permanent but removable seal.
The bungie keeps the top under tension. No need to fuss with twrist locks or straps. And it's clean with no holes.
Magnets have come a long way. Six 1/8x1" magnets glued to the fiberglass down each side will give you 72lbs of clamping force.
Get n52 magnets. They make them in all kinds of sizes. I picked round ones with a hole because I thought it would hold the epoxy better against the fiberglass. I also used some heat shrink tubing over them to seal them as well as a second barrier. They are really strong and very small. I think I paid 1.50 each for them.
Just for giggle I bought a 1"x1" cube of this. It takes 150lbs to separate it from steel. Crazy strong. I'm going to use these small magnets in everything I design on the top. Even when I roll up the windows there will be magnets that hold it up. Not straps. Also goes for the top hold down loops. These magnets will replace those.
as far as strap/no strap.....remember when you have both sides and rear curtain rolled up the straps or whatever is used on the corner fabric will be most important as sides and rear wont be secure (theyre rolled up).
if using other than straps try to figure out a way to tight/loosen/adjust as temperature and use can/will affect fit.....probably not much but it feels nice to snug the straps if needed....just dont end up too loose if using other than straps....
if using other than straps try to figure out a way to tight/loosen/adjust as temperature and use can/will affect fit.....probably not much but it feels nice to snug the straps if needed....just dont end up too loose if using other than straps....
Subscribed. Great read as usual ANT.
- Thread starter
- #133
alright sorry for the delay.. i've finally got most of the top done. i can tell you right now... using a binder attachment Binder Attachments for Sewing Machine - YouTube
IS WAY EASIER... just cut the pieces to fit and then finish them with the binding.
I also got the basting tape for my zippers and it makes aligning the panels a snap! I ran out of fabric for the 2nd top piece so I've been working on the side panels for now. All I need are some windows and I'm good to go!
IS WAY EASIER... just cut the pieces to fit and then finish them with the binding.
I also got the basting tape for my zippers and it makes aligning the panels a snap! I ran out of fabric for the 2nd top piece so I've been working on the side panels for now. All I need are some windows and I'm good to go!
- Thread starter
- #134
if the airforce kicks me out I'd gladly sit at a table and make these things all day - it is a lot of fun.. just dont tell anyone I said that!
Mopdog
SILVER Star
Unbelievable work. If you are not going to be selling these is there any chance you are going to work up a detailed pattern to sell? Having a pattern to take to a local canvas place would be awsome, thanks for posting all this info.
- Thread starter
- #137
as far as patterns go - the measurements are on page 5 i think. Trust me I have made this top with a measuring tape, yard stick, some marking chalk, and scissors. I'm not using a pattern anymore because using these measurements are much more accurate. With the measurements on that page and your truck in-house any shop should be able to make you a top no problem.
I added the windows the last couple days - the stitching didn't come out as nice as some of the other pieces since I had to line up the binding by hand
I added the windows the last couple days - the stitching didn't come out as nice as some of the other pieces since I had to line up the binding by hand
Looking great, I have my machine and I am ready to go, just need to paint my fj40 first and it needs to cool off for both, it is like a 1,000 degrees non stop here.
As for the template I would agree with ant, if you are going to have a shop make one you are much better taking the rig to them with some pictures of what you want, let them make it for your truck. If they follow a template you give them and you end up with a saggy top you will be out of luck and your $$$. Here is link to where they made a top for a troopy, shows how they made the template out of a plastic sheet. It was further up in this thread. It is a much safer approach. Ant's measurements back up i the thread are extremely helpful for a starting point.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owner...-top-restoration-super-mod-2.html#post6257821
As for the template I would agree with ant, if you are going to have a shop make one you are much better taking the rig to them with some pictures of what you want, let them make it for your truck. If they follow a template you give them and you end up with a saggy top you will be out of luck and your $$$. Here is link to where they made a top for a troopy, shows how they made the template out of a plastic sheet. It was further up in this thread. It is a much safer approach. Ant's measurements back up i the thread are extremely helpful for a starting point.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owner...-top-restoration-super-mod-2.html#post6257821
Cjgoode has good points. It would be best to let the make measure the pattern. But if want to make your own the Troopy Soft Top Rest thread has a great idea. From what I've learned it is best to use 6 mil shrink wrap instead of plastic. Shrink wrap is more stable than plastic with temp changes. You can use double sided seam tape to hold the shrink wrap to the bows.
Kevin
Kevin
- Thread starter
- #140
Well here is the final product not bad for my second attempt. I love the zippers and this material... It is strong!
It took me so long to finish because i was trying to color match... My first supplier ran out of the lighter color. I gave up and made a two tone top piece
It took me so long to finish because i was trying to color match... My first supplier ran out of the lighter color. I gave up and made a two tone top piece
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