OEM repro softtop question

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For those in the know...

Advantages and/or disadvantages to using straps with footman loops versus little twist fasteners, specifically for back window flap.

I suspect they're necessary to keep the top really tight and avoid flapping in the wind.

Having a one off top made and looking for customizing tips/suggestions

TIA
 
jfrench said:
For those in the know...

Advantages and/or disadvantages to using straps with footman loops versus little twist fasteners, specifically for back window flap.

I suspect they're necessary to keep the top really tight and avoid flapping in the wind.

Having a one off top made and looking for customizing tips/suggestions

TIA

I suspect that you're asking because you don't want to drill holes in your tub for the footman loops. Unless you have soft ambulance doors, then you'll need some sort of a tailgate. You can put footman loops on that and you could use twist lock fasteners on the lip of rear corners. One thing that happens with canvas tops as you're probably aware is they shrink and stretch. The straps allow you to slowly stretch the top by gradually tightening them. With twist locks everywhere you wouldn't be able to do that.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
SouthBostonFJ said:
I suspect that you're asking because you don't want to drill holes in your tub for the footman loops. Unless you have soft ambulance doors, then you'll need some sort of a tailgate. You can put footman loops on that and you could use twist lock fasteners on the lip of rear corners. One thing that happens with canvas tops as you're probably aware is they shrink and stretch. The straps allow you to slowly stretch the top by gradually tightening them. With twist locks everywhere you wouldn't be able to do that.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

Don't really care about drilling holes. Just think it looks cleaner without 10 straps and buckles across the back.

Have a tailgate that I will doctor as needed.

I'm having the top made from SeaMark. It's Sunbrella on the outside with a lining that makes it waterproof. Supposedly great for everything except breathability. Not sure how much it shrinks/stretches but it will be custom and they'll have my 42 while making it so it should fit tightly, at least at first. If it tends to shrink and stretch even if it's not as much as canvas I'll probably have to opt for the straps and footman loops.

Was mostly wondering if anyone had used something else and how it turned out.

Here's another question...OEM twist fasteners, Tenax or Lift the Dot? Anyone have experience with more than one and a preference?

Any other recommendations for custom features on a top? Removable side, back curtain?

I guess most of this is just personal preference.

Just looking for advice
Thanks
 
Sunbrella should not stretch much at all, but the rear straps help tighten the top up. I would still go with the straps in the back. What do you mean a lining to make it waterproof. I lining in the inside would allow water into the fabric and possible mold/mildew issues. Sunblrella makes several types of fabric that give you a balance between water proof and breath ability. Best part about then is the UV and color not fading.

Here is a good link to the different Sunbrella fabric., I wish it had the stretch part since that is key to your question
http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Outdoor Fabric Comparison Chart.pdf

Let us know which one they are using, and you must post some pictures of it when done.
 
I used lift the dot and haven't had any problems. No special tools were needed to install, just an awl.



image-2437549549.jpg
image-2437549549.jpg
 
The cleanest look would be no straps at all on the outside. You could use twist locks or some other fastener around the lip and hide them with a flap. You could use straps on the inside of the back flap that you'd reach by unzipping the flap.
 
I am thinking about design of a custom softtop as well - I am planning on removable windows - but I won't go for the OEM look anyway

I recently scored a one-piece tailgate :bounce: in blue :bounce: now if I only had a sill :doh: :rolleyes:
 
cjgoode said:
What do you mean a lining to make it waterproof. I lining in the inside would allow water into the fabric and possible mold/mildew issues. Sunblrella makes several types of fabric that give you a balance between water proof and breath ability.

Let us know which one they are using, and you must post some pictures of it when done.

It's called SeaMark, Sunbrella and Haartz together. There's info about it in the link you provided.

Here's more:
http://canvas-fabrics.com/SeaMark/index.htm

I talked with the canvas shop about recommended materials and this was their suggestion living at altitude here in Colorado.

Maybe I'll use straight Sunbrella on the side curtains for more breathability.

Will post all the juicy details once it's done

Thanks
 
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The cleanest look would be no straps at all on the outside. You could use twist locks or some other fastener around the lip and hide them with a flap. You could use straps on the inside of the back flap that you'd reach by unzipping the flap.

The cleanest look would be bungie cords in a zig zag fashion attached to 6mm metric hooks that are screwed into the holes that normally hold the hard top down. Then the outer flaps that have 1"fiberglass battens in them with Neodymium magnets attached to them just clamp onto the body for permanent but removable seal.

The bungie keeps the top under tension. No need to fuss with twrist locks or straps. And it's clean with no holes.

Magnets have come a long way. Six 1/8x1" magnets glued to the fiberglass down each side will give you 72lbs of clamping force.
 
I like the bungy cord and magnet idea, the magnets is a great idea even if you used straps in the back. That way when the top is off or sides rolled up you do not have the twist things sticking out. This is something I am going to look into when I start making my top.

edit--
Looked at the prices and sizes available of these magnets. I like that idea more and more, since I have not painted by body yet, I need to consider filling the factory holes for the twist things. With kids and climbing in and out not having the twist things will be a big plus.
 
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Get n52 magnets. They make them in all kinds of sizes. I picked round ones with a hole because I thought it would hold the epoxy better against the fiberglass. I also used some heat shrink tubing over them to seal them as well as a second barrier. They are really strong and very small. I think I paid 1.50 each for them.

Just for giggle I bought a 1"x1" cube of this. It takes 150lbs to separate it from steel. Crazy strong. I'm going to use these small magnets in everything I design on the top. Even when I roll up the windows there will be magnets that hold it up. Not straps. Also goes for the top hold down loops. These magnets will replace those.
 
Trollhole said:
The cleanest look would be bungie cords in a zig zag fashion attached to 6mm metric hooks that are screwed into the holes that normally hold the hard top down. Then the outer flaps that have 1"fiberglass battens in them with Neodymium magnets attached to them just clamp onto the body for permanent but removable seal.

The bungie keeps the top under tension. No need to fuss with twrist locks or straps. And it's clean with no holes.

Magnets have come a long way. Six 1/8x1" magnets glued to the fiberglass down each side will give you 72lbs of clamping force.

You running this setup now?

Got pics?
 
i would suggest seamark for the sides instead of just sunbrella....lined means its urethane coated on one side of the sunbrella.
the seamark will be a little heavier/thicker than just plain sunbrella which is better in my opinion.

flaps that are sewn along the insides for fasteners can be used all the way around corners and rear. with a material dimensionally stable as seamark you want a nice fit as it wont shrink to your bows the way canvas does. canvas will shrink toward the point its secured so it "fits" itself and is therefore a little forgiving with each individual bow/truck setup.....
seamark/sunbrella/dimensionally stable fabric isnt as forgiving and relies on the closest fit possible.....therefore if you can give allowances to fit and or adjustment itll give you more control over fit....ie adjustability with straps/fasteners/etc...

heavier fabric gives in less to billowing and flapping but nothing reduces it more than a proper fit....weight also helps with road noise...

make sure they fit and tighten from the front-with corners secured at windshield corners- then to the rear...the rear will never fit correctly unless its attached properly at front first...

:)
 
jfrench said:
For those in the know...

Advantages and/or disadvantages to using straps with footman loops versus little twist fasteners, specifically for back window flap.

I suspect they're necessary to keep the top really tight and avoid flapping in the wind.

Having a one off top made and looking for customizing tips/suggestions

TIA

important here is to consider how itll be secured when sides and rear are rolled up....ive found the twist fastener/grommets on the side skirts undone before not intentionally (although little fingers may have contributed)....i wouldnt like it as a possibility on the corners with sides and rear rolled up....the corners will take a bit of wind as well so personally i like the straps....i do believe there are other ways however....some of this depends on how youll use your vehicle....my sides and rear stay rolled up so straps on the corner make me happy and its a no brainer to look and know its secure....
a picture of mine with sides and rear rolled up...

edit: on another note ive often wished for a quicker way to open the rear curtain short of undoing six buckles....twist fasteners would be quicker but youd loose the ability to cinch down the top to snug it....with twist fasteners youd have to pull the top (and at that point youre pulling the length of the top) with your hands to get the grommets lined to the fasteners and it will only be so snug to allow that....buckles give you pulling power/leverage past that...
image-3933840578.jpg
 
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Thanks for the recs OCD
 
toyota used straps because canvas shrinks

toyota went with twists for a few years ...like...late64/65 till late71/72 when they went with the vinyl

Toyota switched back to straps I think they thought that shrinkage wouldn't be as much as a concern with the vinyl and you would be able to stretch it....but...they found that it was a concern...and went with a more secure strap set-up then. :meh:
 
I've got a top made of Sonnendeck German style lined canvas. It doesn't have corner straps on it. I'm debating whether to pay to have corner straps sewn on or to just use twist locks in the corners because the sonnendeck is not very stretchy. It does have straps across the rear flap. Not to beat a dead horse, but does anyone have a differing opinion given this fabric?
 
That's a very sound material...Kayline replacement tops had just twists on the corners...when I had that top it worked fine... Your material there should be not much concern ... Did you have weather flaps over the twist ends? Throne thing I found was the exposed twist ends wore out due to weather faster without a protective flap

Got any pics of your top
 
Johnny,

No pics yet, waiting on my bows from Alex. Will post when mounted. I do have weather flaps over all twist lock areas including corners. I'm leaning toward the straps, barring the installation isn't too expensive at a local upholstery shop. I went to a reccomended shop to have some seat covers from AAtlas installed, and they wanted 700$. SO, I have to find a better shop for that to work out. If anyone reccomends a place near San Jose, CA, let me know.

Edit: Johnny, is it you that used acorn nuts instead of twist locks on the front corners? If so, what gromets did you use to reinforce the front, and what, if any, is the advantage besides aesthetic? Any pics of that set up greatly appreciated.
 

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