Mable, third time's the charm

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One of the studs in your above pic has a shine on it close to the wheel. It almost looks as if the nuts are skipping threads rather than backing off. Are the threads feeling like they a fitting properly or is there a fair amount of play in them?

On another note a torque wrench is a really good idea. Don't skimp on the model.
 
One of the studs in your above pic has a shine on it close to the wheel. It almost looks as if the nuts are skipping threads rather than backing off. Are the threads feeling like they a fitting properly or is there a fair amount of play in them?

On another note a torque wrench is a really good idea. Don't skimp on the model.


The nuts thread on easy without any play. I'm headed out to pick up a torque wrench. 60 forum says 90# so that's what I'll set these to.
 
The spec is higher for FJ62s. I bet Toyota realized that 90ft/lbs wasn't enough. Set them to ~100ft/lbs, if not 110.
 
The spec is higher for FJ62s. I bet Toyota realized that 90ft/lbs wasn't enough. Set them to ~100ft/lbs, if not 110.

Set to 110#

I have a torque wrench if you don't buy one.....

Picked one up at HF. Don't tell @Rice I skimped

@tgadd You might also want to clean the studs and nuts of any grease or lubricants that might be there. Jack it up and remove the wheel to ensure cleaning it all off.

Nothing but the metal shavings on the studs.

Drove around for 30 miles today and didn't have any loosening. Going to drive some more tomorrow and check it out.
 
Make sure that your drums are going all the way in. There are one or two screws that hold the drum that could be loose and interfere with the wheel. A lot of time shops dont put them back in because they are just to hold the drums in place but if they back out it wont let the wheel tight to the axle
 
Last week headed down to my mom's house I took the long way home. Got some good pictures exploring Sumter National Forest

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Lug nut issue all better?

As a connected note it would not be a bad idea for all of us to do a torque check and while we're there also check caliper bolts.
 
The lug nuts, 1 wheel only were galled on the conical portion where it seats to the rim, very odd. That may have happened when they came loose, but I don't think so. Either way, a bit odd so I cleaned up the wheel a bit and we put some regular old lug nuts on it to see if that made a change. Scott will check them in a day or so.
 
That's preposterous, waste of time, lug nuts NEVER come off a wheel, never heard of it.

But I can check them this morning we we meet up if it matters...:bang:
 
That's preposterous, waste of time, lug nuts NEVER come off a wheel, never heard of it.

Though they never come off, it's quite a spectacular sight when they do. :D
 
The slip is facing down from the factory, not up towards the transfer case. Doesn't really matter, but I wanted to point out that that would not have contributed to your vibration problem at all.
 
Line drawings in the FSM show the slip toward the T-case, that's how I have come to the conclusion that it should be on the T-case side. . No thought at all that this was the cause of vibration.
 
You're right. The rear does have the slip at the t-case for the single-cardan shafts, yet the front has the slip at the differential. Huh. Rear DC shafts have the slip at the bottom, guess I thought both styles were oriented the same.

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Driveline vibration is good. Cruises smooth on 485 at 70 mph.

Lug nuts holding good, will be ordering some new ones @NCFJ recommended.

Now there is a "creak" coming from the front right suspension when I'm turned and hit a bump (like turning into my driveway). Will look under it this weekend to check the bushings.

The joys of daily driving a 30 year old truck.
 
First good place to look .... sway bar bushings.
 

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