I just joined rising sun recently. Good for meeting more people to wheel with, lots of great information, and supporting the maintinence of trails so we can keep them open. We should wheel 100s sometime when this late start winter starts to wind down.
LXColorado Builds the Mako (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LXColorado
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 100 series build lx470
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I just joined rising sun recently. Good for meeting more people to wheel with, lots of great information, and supporting the maintinence of trails so we can keep them open. We should wheel 100s sometime when this late start winter starts to wind down.
@LXColorado I was a member! I moved to Italy but I really enjoyed the club, great guys who know where to go, know what they are doing, do it safely and have a good time.
I highly recommend joining! New people are always welcome at the meetings, just show up with your LX and check it out! Nothing more needed
I highly recommend joining! New people are always welcome at the meetings, just show up with your LX and check it out! Nothing more needed
my twin! Great build
I highly recommend you get that "High Mileage" (HM) oil out of your rig. That HM stuff is like "crack", once used for two oil changes (according to Mobile One tech support) you must use forever. It's a petroleum base seal modifier that swells rubber seals, which you do not want.
If you've an oil leak or one develops try AT-205 reseal. It's a Plasticizer that used in manufacturing process of seals. Over time the Plasticizer leaches out and seal shrink and harden.
Your rig is really coming along nice, what a sweet ride it's become. I've seen you do a lot difficult jobs really well on your rig. Kudos to you!
You're going to hate me! But I'd get those brass heater T's out and go with plastic OEM T's & OEM clamps, or Aluminum T's w/your clamps. I stop using the brass myself out of concern with electrolysis, just not worth the risk adding one more element IMHO. If not, flushing coolant annually or bi may be best practice.
Last edited:
LXColorado
LX -> LC
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks, Buc!
I'll check them out! Always looking to meet new people.
Thanks! Black LX's are the best LX's
LXColorado
LX -> LC
- Thread starter
- #28
Hey, P! I did take it out. I read more about it (also read how reliable these 2UZ-FE engines are), and the next oil change I switched back to full synthetic. I'm running Mobil 1 full synthetic 0W-40 now, and change every 5,000 miles with a M1-209 filter. Overkill? Definitely! But I enjoy the process and working with my hands - it's a zen thing
Thank you! It's been a steep learning curve on the installs. The only one I did correctly the first time was the rear bumper. Everything else I've had to redo, at least once
ESPECIALLY electrical stuff. No hate!!!! That's the beauty of the forum: learning from the masters! I had this exact thought with the brass T's. I picked it over SS because it is less corrosive, and over aluminum and the OEM plastic because it's stronger/less brittle. Brass doesn't do so well with acidic solutions, and that's exactly what coolant becomes over a long period of time. From what I've read, it takes a LONG time for coolant to become acidic enough to corrode brass, and I do change it frequently. But it's been about a year since I've had them in, so it's due for new coolant; next coolant change I'll take them out and report on them!
lt1fire
SILVER Star
good looking LX
I've more than once woke up in the morning not happy with a job from the day before, and redone it. You're by no means alone on that score.
I've not tried the 0W-40 oil. I have consider the 0W-30 or W0-20 but just keep buying the recommended 5W-30. That large M1-209 filter is probably a good idea, being closer to OEM size. The M1-102 mobil list for our use is kind of small.
@abuck99 and I have been kicking around the issue of coolant. For some reason I'm finding more electrolysis with the newer rigs that use the Toyota SLL pink stuff. We both agree it's best to change more frequent than the recommended 100K or 10 yr first flush, 50K or 5yr thereafter. We're kicking around 30K or 2 yr as a best practices.
I like the plastic T's just to be OEM correct, and scheduled replacement with Timing Belt job at 90K or 7 yr max. I know someone would rather just do Tee's once and not worry about so they go with metal Tee's. I suggested aluminum Tee's otherwise, because that metal is in our systems already and the coolant is designed for it. The one time I used brass, was because the hoses were swollen and I could not get new ones within the time frame I needed to do the repair. So oversized brass was a quick temp fix.
Funny I just pick up a 200 series and Toyota still use the same plastic tee's in them.
I've not tried the 0W-40 oil. I have consider the 0W-30 or W0-20 but just keep buying the recommended 5W-30. That large M1-209 filter is probably a good idea, being closer to OEM size. The M1-102 mobil list for our use is kind of small.
@abuck99 and I have been kicking around the issue of coolant. For some reason I'm finding more electrolysis with the newer rigs that use the Toyota SLL pink stuff. We both agree it's best to change more frequent than the recommended 100K or 10 yr first flush, 50K or 5yr thereafter. We're kicking around 30K or 2 yr as a best practices.
I like the plastic T's just to be OEM correct, and scheduled replacement with Timing Belt job at 90K or 7 yr max. I know someone would rather just do Tee's once and not worry about so they go with metal Tee's. I suggested aluminum Tee's otherwise, because that metal is in our systems already and the coolant is designed for it. The one time I used brass, was because the hoses were swollen and I could not get new ones within the time frame I needed to do the repair. So oversized brass was a quick temp fix.
Funny I just pick up a 200 series and Toyota still use the same plastic tee's in them.
Last edited:
Subbed
You’re right, crazy how many people are selling brand new Tundra TRD rims and tires. I wish I would have bought about this before I bought my last set of tires. Good to know for future though. Rig looks tight!
Red stripe adds a lot of aesthetic. Looks real nice.
Where is this...
Nice build on your LX. Looks like you have some beautiful country to explore.
LXColorado
LX -> LC
- Thread starter
- #37
It's been a while since I've logged in, sorry for the late response. It's Wearyman Creek off Vail Pass.
LXColorado
LX -> LC
- Thread starter
- #38
Still using the mediums. It dropped it about 3/4" or so ? I didn't take any exact measurements, sorry. It's definitely not a 2.5" lift anymore with all the weight I've thrown on it - probably closer to 1 - 1.5" lift. I prefer it that way, 2.5" seemed slightly too tall for my taste. Next up is replacing the god-awful OME sport shocks. They're so damned stiff, even with the additional weight.
Out of curiosity, why blackout the hood?
LXColorado
LX -> LC
- Thread starter
- #40
Helps immensely with sun glare - especially when you are off road and it's easy for the sun to catch the hood.
