After the AHC lift adjustment. I assume it still moves up and down with the AHC control switch. It just starts off higher in normal mode? Does that feel like a stiffer ride than normal height pre AHC lift? I think that’s clearer
LX570 AHC height modifications (lift it!) (9 Viewers)
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I'll pile on to the "get an alignment" point. I did the sensor on the front of my '13 and had a guy stop me in my neighborhood to say, "truck looks great, you need an alignment!". Turns out he's a truck guy too and noticed the toe was off.
Hi all
Just confirming if this is still ok to do. I'd like to see the results right away
Thanks
Just confirming if this is still ok to do. I'd like to see the results right away
Thanks
it's fine, and it's no different than the wheel articulating while driving.
You need to break the nuts loose wile the rig is off, then hand tighten them back up. Start the rig, and slowly hand loosen a corner and move sensor. Might be helpful to cut a stick the exact size you're looking for to be used as a reference (or have someone hold a tape measure). You may also need to wait up to 30 seconds for the rig to respond to your adjustments.
Still need to do all this on level ground, only difference is that you may save a bit of time moving sensor, starting rig, measuring, stopping rig, moving again...
You need to break the nuts loose wile the rig is off, then hand tighten them back up. Start the rig, and slowly hand loosen a corner and move sensor. Might be helpful to cut a stick the exact size you're looking for to be used as a reference (or have someone hold a tape measure). You may also need to wait up to 30 seconds for the rig to respond to your adjustments.
Still need to do all this on level ground, only difference is that you may save a bit of time moving sensor, starting rig, measuring, stopping rig, moving again...
A question I can’t find in the thread. I’m considering doing a 1-2” sensor lift this spring since I’m due for summer tires and want to go up a size somwhere in the 33-34”. My question is anyone lifting for summer then lowering back down for winter?
I like the idea of lower CG in the winter but the larger concern is my ski rack that stays on all winter adds 4” to my height, so currently my LX has just under 1” clearance on my garage so if I did a 1-2” lift I couldn’t park in the garage.
I like the idea of lower CG in the winter but the larger concern is my ski rack that stays on all winter adds 4” to my height, so currently my LX has just under 1” clearance on my garage so if I did a 1-2” lift I couldn’t park in the garage.
this isn't a problem at all, it's easy to adjust it up or down as required.
for 33.5" tire you won't need much sensor lift. may need to do some wheel liner adjustments.
Thanks. I haven’t decided if I’ll use my 18 or 20’s. Looking at open country AT 3 or wild peaks in 285/60-20 or 275/70-18. At least I may just lift the front to level.
I did do an wheel alignment after the adjustment, so maybe price that in too?
There’s a lot going on here,
I read from 18 back to like 11.
Is it enough to grab some 2-2.5” strut spacers for an LC200/tundra to throw 33-34” tires and cut or push the wheel well plastic to prevent rubbing? Or do you also need to do the AHC sensor lift?
I read from 18 back to like 11.
Is it enough to grab some 2-2.5” strut spacers for an LC200/tundra to throw 33-34” tires and cut or push the wheel well plastic to prevent rubbing? Or do you also need to do the AHC sensor lift?
Lifting IFS doesn’t allow for bigger tires. You’ll want to make sure that you clear your tires in low mode.
You can easily fit 33’s with simply moving the liners and removing mud flaps.
Some notes
- Lift really has no bearing on tire fitment for an IFS as it only changes the neutral point of where the tire sits in the suspension travel. Tire still has to fit when articulating
- Can't run that thick of strut spacers as that will cause the shock to bottom out and destroy itself. One can use the LC stock spacer to help augment for weight handling and more down travel
- Wheel well plastic is easy to trim and move to accommodate more tire. This thread will show everything that needs to be done for up to 35s
got it. Well yes, I guess the spacers seemed thrown around in the beginning since people were mentioning the sensor lift affected the handling/ride and overall load the truck can handle.
So can one actually just run the spacers to not fill the bags as full and push or cut away the liners/wheel wells to run 33’s-34’s?
So as someone mentioned earlier you can just easily move the liners and run 33’s no problem. Is that also without needing to do the sensor lift?
seems like the jump from 33 to 34 or 35 is far more work like the BMC, spacers, sensor lift, etc.That’s good to know.Seems like more than I would be willing to do
Not sure what you mean by bags?
As I use to run 33s, here's a guide more specific to that. It really is as easy moving some liners
forum.ih8mud.com
As I use to run 33s, here's a guide more specific to that. It really is as easy moving some liners
Trimming Wheel Well for Larger Tires
I'm getting ready to have my 305/55/20's (33.2"x12.5") mounted tomorrow. I know there will be just a tad of kissing of the tires to wheel well liners at the front deflector and trailing mud flap. Wanted to see pics of what you guys have done. As a reference, I will be using my stock 20" LX570...
forum.ih8mud.com
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Yes, I would say your conclusions here are accurate. One thing to note is that there are a variety of widths you’ll find in those diameters you mentioned but in general you are correct.
Going from 33-34” would mean removing the mud flap in addition to the modification of the front of the inner liner in my experience. Again, depending on width of tire and offset of wheel. Going to 35” means following TeCK’s advice.
Not sure what you mean by bags?
As a use to run 33s, here's a guide more specific to that. It really is as easy moving some liners
Trimming Wheel Well for Larger Tires
I'm getting ready to have my 305/55/20's (33.2"x12.5") mounted tomorrow. I know there will be just a tad of kissing of the tires to wheel well liners at the front deflector and trailing mud flap. Wanted to see pics of what you guys have done. As a reference, I will be using my stock 20" LX570...
thank you.sorry by bags im referring to air suspension which is not accurate for AHC. But the spacers should simply
Not require the AHC to use as high of a pressure
Yea I def don’t want 35’s enough to start cutting into the body. But if I also can’t do 34’s with just wheel spacer, strut spacer, and moving around the laps Nd liners, but I also need a sensor lift? I just have yet to drive a 570 with the sensor lift so I hear about the decrease on ride quality, turns etc so that concerns me
None of that is true. Ride quality is basically unchanged with adjustment. You didn’t need that or a strut spacer to run a 34” 11-ish wide tire. You will need a wheel offset between 25-40mm and to remove the front mud flap. The fender liner mod really depends on tire. I didn’t need it for mild AT like falken but did when I went to a mud terrain.
TN LX570
SILVER Star
The strut spacer is not going to gain you anything in the way of lift. This is simply increasing the preload on the springs and reducing the load on the AHC. Maybe some have found a "decrease on ride quality, turns etc", but I beg to differ. I'm quite content and confident with my 34s.
If you follow a narrow tire and optimal offset path you can run a very tall 35 with liner mods and a moderate sensor adjustment only. If you want less offset or wider tires, you’ll move into bmc or fender contour land.
I managed a 275/65R20 before any sensor lift, if I am remembering the order of everything I did correctly. I had to move the front liner forward and remove the front mud flap and I also have a 3/4" Bora wheel adapter, although I don't recall if it is necessary.
I don't remember any decrease in ride quality from the sensor adjustment. But I definitely feel a dramatic difference in High mode compared to Normal mode. This may be due to the reduced down travel available while in this position also, but off-road, I feel it is a little harsh to remain in High for an entire trail. I can't say how much effect the strut spacer has, but in theory it helps things.
To @grinchy 's point, I love the idea of the Kenda thats available in the 35x10.5r17 but I didn't have the intention of wheeling this 200 much when I put on the 34" Coopers (285/75R17) I am currently running during the summer. If I did it over again (and wasn't obsessed with going up to a larger tire than that), that is the tire I would run.
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