LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement (9 Viewers)

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Here's an update of where I'm at with my AHC repair job. I posted this in a few other threads as well.

I spent 4hrs in the garage last night, wrestling with this line that needs replaced, and it will not budge! The connectors on both ends of the line that needs replaced, are so seized on. But it's not just line.

After removing the plates from the Slee rock sliders, and actually being able inspect the accumulators, and bleeding valves, and being able to climb under the rear to work on the busted line, it's blanantly obvious that $6k-$7,500 was not spent replacing anything on this suspension system. Everything suspension wise is rusted! The rear passenger side shock, has a hole in the top of the shock.

I've pretty much accepted that I'm going to have to convert my LX570 to traditional suspension. This isn't how I wanted things to play out, but it is what it is.

Plus, the local Lexus dealership quoted me 8.5hrs of labor for replacing the line, and 4hrs to fill and bleed the system. I was told to be prepared to spend at a minimum around $2k to replace the line, and around another $400 for them to bleed the system. They also told me, that if my bleeder valves and accumulators look bad, or are rusty, then they will pass on the work. Here's a few pics of my accumulators.

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Here's an update of where I'm at with my AHC repair job. I posted this in a few other threads as well.

I spent 4hrs in the garage last night, wrestling with this line that needs replaced, and it will not budge! The connectors on both ends of the line that needs replaced, are so seized on. But it's not just line.

After removing the plates from the Slee rock sliders, and actually being able inspect the accumulators, and bleeding valves, and being able to climb under the rear to work on the busted line, it's blanantly obvious that $6k-$7,500 was not spent replacing anything on this suspension system. Everything suspension wise is rusted! The rear passenger side shock, has a hole in the top of the shock.

I've pretty much accepted that I'm going to have to convert my LX570 to traditional suspension. This isn't how I wanted things to play out, but it is what it is.

Plus, the local Lexus dealership quoted me 8.5hrs of labor for replacing the line, and 4hrs to fill and bleed the system. I was told to be prepared to spend at a minimum around $2k to replace the line, and around another $400 for them to bleed the system. They also told me, that if my bleeder valves and accumulators look bad, or are rusty, then they will pass on the work. Here's a few pics of my accumulators.

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I’d probably make same decision. Good luck 🫡
 
I ended up getting a pretty great deal this past Friday on a set of 200 series L.C. suspension that has maybe 5 miles on it. The Cruiser it came off of had OME BP-51's installed on it fresh off the truck at the dealership before the Cruiser went out on the lot. It may not be a set of BP-51's, Icon's, or King's, but it will get my Lux back on the road until I can get a suspension system installed that matches the comfort the AHC suspension had.

Now comes the fun part of removing all the old suspension...😬

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I ended up getting a pretty great deal this past Friday on a set of 200 series L.C. suspension that has maybe 5 miles on it. The Cruiser it came off of had OME BP-51's installed on it fresh off the truck at the dealership before the Cruiser went out on the lot. It may not be a set of BP-51's, Icon's, or King's, but it will get my Lux back on the road until I can get a suspension system installed that matches the comfort the AHC suspension had.

Now comes the fun part of removing all the old suspension...😬

View attachment 3560785
I think that your handling may not be great with LC suspension bc your LX anti-roll bars are smaller than LC. So those LC shocks and springs are made to work with thicker roll bars found on KDSS LC.
 
I think that your handling may not be great with LC suspension bc your LX anti-roll bars are smaller than LC. So those LC shocks and springs are made to work with thicker roll bars found on KDSS LC.
Thanks for that heads-up. I noticed that when I was under the rear last Thursday. The stock LX570 sway bar is not as beefy as the sway bar that was on my 2011 L.C. The current sway bar is the same thickness as the sway bar on my 2004 LX470. Once I get this suspension installed, I'll start looking at some bigger sway bars to install to compensate.
 
A sway bar is part of it, KDSS not being present is another part of it.
 
Thanks for that heads-up. I noticed that when I was under the rear last Thursday. The stock LX570 sway bar is not as beefy as the sway bar that was on my 2011 L.C. The current sway bar is the same thickness as the sway bar on my 2004 LX470. Once I get this suspension installed, I'll start looking at some bigger sway bars to install to compensate.
Just wait and see how it goes first. IIRC, I’m sure the LX sway bars were the same part numbers as the local AU vehicles without KDSS.

Remember the KDSS models don’t have sway bars, they have a sway control system, the bars are thinker as they don’t work on torsion like conventional systems.
 
Remember the KDSS models don’t have sway bars, they have a sway control system, the bars are thinker as they don’t work on torsion like conventional systems.

I’m not sure that’s accurate.

Under cornering conditions they work just like very thick sway bars, with the rams working against each other to stay static and the bar resisting body roll.

But those bars would be too thick for decent off-road performance, if the rams didn’t let them effectively disconnect under articulation.
 
Gah. Replacing globes on my new-to-me LX this weekend. This process was flawless on my last LX. This time, not so much.

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Successfully replaced 3 out of 4. Managed to strip the bolt on the front passenger globe. Used a Dremel to grind it down and hammer a smaller socket on there, but that stripped as well.

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I tried drilling into the side, so I could insert a bolt for leverage and loosen it with a wrench. I got a few millimeters deep and had to give up. Never penetrated the gas chamber. LX was already bled and on the bump stops, so I had no leverage with the drill and I kept sheering off bits.

Called it quits. Heading to a trusted Toyota fella in the AM to see if he can spare a lift and a tech for 20 minutes.

Career-wise, I’m 7 for 8 on these things. Could’ve done two full swaps with the amount of time I’ve messed with this one trouble globe.
 
Gah. Replacing globes on my new-to-me LX this weekend. This process was flawless on my last LX. This time, not so much.

View attachment 3573282

Successfully replaced 3 out of 4. Managed to strip the bolt on the front passenger globe. Used a Dremel to grind it down and hammer a smaller socket on there, but that stripped as well.

View attachment 3573283

I tried drilling into the side, so I could insert a bolt for leverage and loosen it with a wrench. I got a few millimeters deep and had to give up. Never penetrated the gas chamber. LX was already bled and on the bump stops, so I had no leverage with the drill and I kept sheering off bits.

Called it quits. Heading to a trusted Toyota fella in the AM to see if he can spare a lift and a tech for 20 minutes.

Career-wise, I’m 7 for 8 on these things. Could’ve done two full swaps with the amount of time I’ve messed with this one trouble globe.

Don’t be afraid to punch a big hole in them. The nitrogen will drain slow if you drill slowly. I ended up making a hole big enough for a pry bar.
 
Don’t be afraid to punch a big hole in them. The nitrogen will drain slow if you drill slowly. I ended up making a hole big enough for a pry bar.
I’m not afraid if it - that’s exactly what I was trying to do. I’m just out gas and time. I don’t think my bits were the right ones for the job
 
Don’t be afraid to punch a big hole in them. The nitrogen will drain slow if you drill slowly. I ended up making a hole big enough for a pry bar.

Which globe was it and what did you use to make the hole? Any chance you have pictures? I’d like to see your angle of attack.
 
Which globe was it and what did you use to make the hole? Any chance you have pictures? I’d like to see your angle of attack.

Not a great pic

 
Another option is to put a 3/8-1/2” hole in the red circle and use a flat end punch and hammer in a counterclockwise direction to knock it loose. This is what I had to do to remove the accumulator stuck onto the KDSS valve I dissected that was riddled with cancer.

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Another option is to put a 3/8-1/2” hole in the red circle and use a flat end punch and hammer in a counterclockwise direction to knock it loose. This is what I had to do to remove the accumulator stuck onto the KDSS valve I dissected that was riddled with cancer.

View attachment 3573560
Thanks @tbisaacs for the pictures. Definitely used that post as my point of reference for attempting to drill it out, but didn't realize they were your pics.

And same brain, @bloc. That's exactly where I started my punch/drill process. I just ran out of daylight, drill bits, and kid-free time to get the job done before an upcoming camping trip. Already booked time with a local toyota mechanic to make fast work of this last one.
 

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