LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I suspect the fluid exiting the bleed port at such high speed introduces turbulence that causes air entrainment.. I bled my friend’s AHC system lately and each screw had air which eventually separated out. System works great, no bad accumulators as far as we could tell.


Exactly - look at the stream not the bottle you’re draining into
 
3/4 of the way into this and the bolt head on the last accumulator rounded off. The PO under coated the globes so the surface was a mess.

So frustrating. Set it aside for the night before I did more damage to the nut. Going to try a lug nut extractor tomorrow.

My current luck aside, this is a super easy job. I was on track that be done in less than an hour. Shoutout to the Slee wizards for leaving enough room to do this with sliders on the truck.

3C001808-6D85-4572-AF05-2ED03D3A1112.jpeg


Also don’t be alarmed by how much fluid you bleed out.

D89CC230-1ABC-4075-B418-06FB25EA9507.jpeg
 
3/4 of the way into this and the bolt head on the last accumulator rounded off. The PO under coated the globes so the surface was a mess.

If that doesn’t work, can you drill a hole and stick something through to spin it?
 
3/4 of the way into this and the bolt head on the last accumulator rounded off. The PO under coated the globes so the surface was a mess.

So frustrating. Set it aside for the night before I did more damage to the nut. Going to try a lug nut extractor tomorrow.

My current luck aside, this is a super easy job. I was on track that be done in less than an hour. Shoutout to the Slee wizards for leaving enough room to do this with sliders on the truck.

View attachment 2529407

Also don’t be alarmed by how much fluid you bleed out.

View attachment 2529408

Wow...such clean fluid. When did you bleed last?
 
If that doesn’t work, can you drill a hole and stick something through to spin it?

Im going to try a strap wrench too. If that doesn’t work I’ll head to @grinchy ‘s driveway and we’ll weld a but on.

but that’s not a bad idea.
 
Im going to try a strap wrench too. If that doesn’t work I’ll head to @grinchy ‘s driveway and we’ll weld a but on.

but that’s not a bad idea.
When I removed the stuck accumulator from that rusty KDSS valve all I had to do was drill a pocket in the side then use a round punch and hammer on the shoulder of that to get it moving. The steel was pretty thick.. I bet this could be done without even breaching the inner gas chamber. Or if you do, just drill slowly and the pressure will vent gradually once the bit finally pierces the inner wall.
Not sure how your globes seal but with this it was an o-ring. So once I got the rusty/stuck part loose it spun right off, it wasn’t very gradually loosening like tapered pipe thread. I only mention that because it looks like a punch on the periphery of your globe will have limited access for good positioning/drilling/hammering.
 
Could try a monkey wrench if you have one and there's enough meat to grab onto (or make enough meat with a angle grinder)...
 
Are you going to reuse it or go fresh?

Not sure. I got 3 liters new fluid because I wasn’t sure what condition the old fluid would be in. I’lll let ya know once I figure out this last accumulator.
 
Could try a monkey wrench if you have one and there's enough meat to grab onto (or make enough meat with a angle grinder)...

definitely considered this too. The slider makes this challenging. The globe is in a “pocket” between the frame rail and the slider.
 
What are they torqued to normally?
 
When I removed the stuck accumulator from that rusty KDSS valve all I had to do was drill a pocket in the side then use a round punch and hammer on the shoulder of that to get it moving. The steel was pretty thick.. I bet this could be done without even breaching the inner gas chamber. Or if you do, just drill slowly and the pressure will vent gradually once the bit finally pierces the inner wall.
Not sure how your globes seal but with this it was an o-ring. So once I got the rusty/stuck part loose it spun right off, it wasn’t very gradually loosening like tapered pipe thread. I only mention that because it looks like a punch on the periphery of your globe will have limited access for good positioning/drilling/hammering.

Other options I considered while losing sleep:
  • Drill a whole in the slide big enough that I would cross thread a thick nut into that I could pry on
  • Drill a hole through both sides of the equator big enough to get a screwdriver through and use it as a T-handle. But like I said above I think slider would make it hard
  • Drill a hole in the existing nut snd see if i can cross thread a reverse thread bolt in. Although this is point of no return if I want to use a nut extractor
 
Ah - I think chain pipe wrench over the rubber ones is a good bet, or grind that nut down to the next size
 
Other options I considered while losing sleep:
  • Drill a whole in the slide big enough that I would cross thread a thick nut into that I could pry on
  • Drill a hole through both sides of the equator big enough to get a screwdriver through and use it as a T-handle. But like I said above I think slider would make it hard
  • Drill a hole in the existing nut snd see if i can cross thread a reverse thread bolt in. Although this is point of no return if I want to use a nut extractor
Picture of what I described above. I think this would work well.
IMG_2300.JPG
 
YOU GUYS.

Thanks for all the support and ideas. I ended up drilling two holes along the seam and sticking pry bars in each end.

FE0DA8D8-DF7A-46B8-93A1-06E0E5267EC5.jpeg


drilling holes was nerve wracking. I started off with a 3/16 bit until I heard nitrogen. It hissed for a good 60 seconds. Then I used a step bit to get to the right size.

OMG brb taking a victory lap.
 
So what’s the mechanics behind these things needing to be replaced? What wears/degrades?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom