Ah , got ya. The crows foot I have seen are all are basic open ended.
LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues (11 Viewers)
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Maybe one of these locking flare nut pliers from OTC? They aren't cheap. I'm not sure which size you'd need. From the sounds of it, they probably won't fit where you need it to fit. Also, googling a bit, while they have always been expensive, apparently price has doubled since 2019. The entire kit is about $100 less on Amazon, but individual wrenches are the same price everywhere I saw.
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I don’t think those could get in there, unfortunately.
Anyone know where the end of this tube is (circled)? Another option I can see would be to disconnect the circled area (leaving the part connected that I can’t remove) and replacing that tube as well as the actuator assembly.
Anyone know where the end of this tube is (circled)? Another option I can see would be to disconnect the circled area (leaving the part connected that I can’t remove) and replacing that tube as well as the actuator assembly.
There are some instances where these things can be a life saver, and this looks like one of them.
Amazon product ASIN B0851C6Q22
Might be worth a shot.
Next up on insurmountable AHC issues, this thing:
The nut I’m having trouble with is actually a bolt, this one is from my replacement assembly. I’m holding it by the pipe that was cut to remove it from the donor vehicle.
Once unscrewed from the actuator it slides up the pipe but can’t be removed as the pipe has a flange at the end:
So if by some miracle I’m able to release the stuck bolt it’s already so rounded that it’s likely unusable with the replacement actuator. But since the pipe is flanged I see no way to replace it with another pipe bolt (or whatever it’s called).
Thoughts?
The nut I’m having trouble with is actually a bolt, this one is from my replacement assembly. I’m holding it by the pipe that was cut to remove it from the donor vehicle.
Once unscrewed from the actuator it slides up the pipe but can’t be removed as the pipe has a flange at the end:
So if by some miracle I’m able to release the stuck bolt it’s already so rounded that it’s likely unusable with the replacement actuator. But since the pipe is flanged I see no way to replace it with another pipe bolt (or whatever it’s called).
Thoughts?
bwell
SILVER Star
How long was the rest of the metal tube that was cut off?
bwell
SILVER Star
What I'm trying to say is, a lot of hydraulic metal lines like this are more common than some people might think. If you need to, in a "pinch", you could potentially source a temporary replacement from a reputable auto parts store, not your typical O'Reilly s or AutoZone probably, but an older well established private store, figure out the length of the old tube, take that remaining fitting with you, and a lot of times they might have a generic aftermarket hard metal line in straight lengths available. The bending tools are not super cumbersome, but sometimes take practice, you can even by the flaring tool if you needed too. This is assuming you don't have immediate access to the replacement hardline or it is weeks away from being delivered.
bwell
SILVER Star
From this angle, it appears to be some sort of a "banjo" bolt type fitting. This type of hydraulic system is typically most used in brake applications.
bwell
SILVER Star
Sorry, looking at your pictures more, you are more than likely going to have to source a new tube(metal hydraulic line) from Lexus.
Assuming the other end of your spare part isn’t trashed, it seems like your plan of separating at the next junction up should work, and would replace that nut. I’m guessing since you haven’t done it, that the pipe is inaccessible.
I agree with bwel, that I suspect for a shop that specializes in hydraulic lines, coming up with some solution would be possible, whether that’s replacing the entire tube, or cutting that end off, then having a shop create a union fitting for the old pipe and an extension to replace the cut piece. Assuming the pipe isn’t some real oddball size.
I agree with bwel, that I suspect for a shop that specializes in hydraulic lines, coming up with some solution would be possible, whether that’s replacing the entire tube, or cutting that end off, then having a shop create a union fitting for the old pipe and an extension to replace the cut piece. Assuming the pipe isn’t some real oddball size.
bwell
SILVER Star
That's kind of what I was originally thinking, but if you think about how small the passage ways are in typical banjo bolt fittings. I just don't see many or any "off the shelf" aftermarket solutions being able to handle the volume that the ahc system uses. But I have no idea what that fitting looks like, fortunately mine isn't in that shape. Then again it might not be that "special."
I will not be defeated.
Trying to find where that pipe goes, as based on the picture I found above it’s not a long travel (though with quite a few bends), in case I need to replace it entirely.
I found it, running between the frame and gas tank, looks like that banjo connection is somewhere right above the tank.
So, a potential drop of the gas tank might provide access. Not something I’m interested in, at least not doing it myself.
But along that pipe it looks like there’s a connection point, which looks like it could be accessible once the assembly is removed.
If so, maybe a new pipe can be attached at this location.
As best I can tell everything is directly under the rear passenger foot well.
I have an appointment in a couple of weeks (labor shortage!) with an independent Lexus service center and they said on the phone they are comfortable working on AHC systems.
Would love to handle it myself but don’t think I’ve got the ability.
Trying to find where that pipe goes, as based on the picture I found above it’s not a long travel (though with quite a few bends), in case I need to replace it entirely.
I found it, running between the frame and gas tank, looks like that banjo connection is somewhere right above the tank.
So, a potential drop of the gas tank might provide access. Not something I’m interested in, at least not doing it myself.
But along that pipe it looks like there’s a connection point, which looks like it could be accessible once the assembly is removed.
If so, maybe a new pipe can be attached at this location.
As best I can tell everything is directly under the rear passenger foot well.
I have an appointment in a couple of weeks (labor shortage!) with an independent Lexus service center and they said on the phone they are comfortable working on AHC systems.
Would love to handle it myself but don’t think I’ve got the ability.
At this point I might not be helping anyone but I figure I'll keep posting my findings in case anyone else ever deals with this. As it turns out, the image I found above that shows the tube still connected to the assembly is for the left rear ACH assembly. Here's the one I'm dealing with from the right rear actuator assembly:
A little different. :O. According to the schematics there are 4 places it's clipped in as it snakes through the body from the right back to the valve control unit over on the driver's side. So that's not going to be replaced. (Nevermind the fact that it's a $600 tube!)
I'm hopeful the shop I take it to in a couple of weeks is able to come up with a solution.
A little different. :O. According to the schematics there are 4 places it's clipped in as it snakes through the body from the right back to the valve control unit over on the driver's side. So that's not going to be replaced. (Nevermind the fact that it's a $600 tube!)
I'm hopeful the shop I take it to in a couple of weeks is able to come up with a solution.
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I noticed and thought your example was probably from the other side, but didn’t want to be a Debbie downer (or be wrong). The left rear actuator doesn’t have far to go to get to the height control valve, hence the short pipe in the other image.
Yeah, I’ll be sure to break the more convenient one next time. 
I've lost track of your adventures...Yeah, I’ll be sure to break the more convenient one next time.
You performed a flush, and everything was operational except for the easy assist? And then you tested wiring/ECU and somehow figured out that one of the actuators needs to be replaced?
Essentially, yes. I don’t know if the problem with the actuator/easy assist started at the same time as the flush or because of (not sure how that would be) but I noticed the easy assist problem when testing everything after the flush.
About 3-4 weeks prior to the flush I got a couple of AHC errors on the dash, just real quick flashes. I didn’t think about that until just recently. It was behaving as if there was an electrical short/flash on the dash. Kind of hard to explain.
I had a ton of corrosion build up on my battery and wondered if that was the cause, so I cleaned them very thoroughly. Didn’t get the errors again so thought that was it. In retrospect it was probably the actuator going out.
About 3-4 weeks prior to the flush I got a couple of AHC errors on the dash, just real quick flashes. I didn’t think about that until just recently. It was behaving as if there was an electrical short/flash on the dash. Kind of hard to explain.
I had a ton of corrosion build up on my battery and wondered if that was the cause, so I cleaned them very thoroughly. Didn’t get the errors again so thought that was it. In retrospect it was probably the actuator going out.
Stupid AHC question of the day:
The ride comfort selector is an electronic baffling system (or sorts), that switches between different sized chambers, correct? Does that particular chamber remain selected once you shut off the rig?
Use case: when camping in RTT and switching to Sport mode before you shut off the rig - would this give you more stability when moving around up there vs having it in Comfort mode when you shut off?
The ride comfort selector is an electronic baffling system (or sorts), that switches between different sized chambers, correct? Does that particular chamber remain selected once you shut off the rig?
Use case: when camping in RTT and switching to Sport mode before you shut off the rig - would this give you more stability when moving around up there vs having it in Comfort mode when you shut off?
It brings up an interesting point that is usually lost. When most people suggest to flush they usually suggest to flush the "furthest from the pump" corner and move closer, which most assume means LF-RF-LR-RR, in reality is probably RF-RR-LF-LR, since all corners share the same pipe until the leveling valves, so it really is distance to that.Yeah, I’ll be sure to break the more convenient one next time.
Have you seen this hint?
“If you perform the left first, then perform the right again.”
Which means if you bleed passenger side first, you don’t have to bleed driver?
This would also suggest LF-RF-LR-RR
