LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues (11 Viewers)

[ufdlim]

Gave Decatur a try. $88 for 5L is a no brainer. Hopefully they ship. McGeorge doesn’t ship to WA unfortunately.

0888601805 - Toyota Suspension fluid | Serra Toyota, Decatur AL

Genuine Toyota Part # 0888601805 (08886-01805) - Suspension fluid. Ships from Serra Toyota, Decatur AL

parts.toyotaofdecatur.com

 

[joyRidaz]

Woot woot just got confirmation that Toyota of Greenville, SC just shipped my 5L’s of unicorn juice! Now to brush up on all the diy threads and procedures. Sale ends today I think.

 

[joyRidaz]

Woot woot just got confirmation that Toyota of Greenville, SC just shipped my 5L’s of unicorn juice! Now to brush up on all the diy threads and procedures. Sale ends today I think.

ODO at 205k, PO changed AHC at dealer around 125-145k-ish…

Okay successfully received 2 metal 2.5L jugs of unicorn tears from Greenville. There’s Something extremely satisfying about opening the tops of those jugs…. Very over engineered…

I knew it was as gonna be a harder than expected day when the 10mm bolt holding the plastic cover/door was seized so accessing the reservoir was almost impossible…. In hindsight I should have let the pb work it’s magic for the days leading up to the project but I always assumed having a southern truck would avoid sticky bolts.

I eventually got access by just unsnapping the teeth holding in the other three sides and rotating the door counter clockwise.

I used all the info from this thread, along with the usage of a hydraulic pump I bought for the transmission, diff and tcase flushing.

Overall this is and should be a very manageable project for the diy-er… should not be intimidating at all. However like usual I found a good way to f-it-up and make it way more difficult than it needs to be…. It was actually quite easy but I just made an absolute mess of myself and driveway…. The hose selection and control was suboptimal at best…. At one point during the first the DS bleed the hose disconnected I. The dark and shot out fluid right at me and I got fully drenched in that stuff…. I felt like Blue from old school… drenched and passing out out of disbelief…

I first put it in Low, and evacuated the reservoir…. It took out quite a bit, maybe a couple liters. Then I filled it about 2/3rds full with fresh stuff. Then turned on car, flipped it to High, let it self configure and level a bit…. Turned it off. Then bled the DS front, got about 2/3rds of a spagetti jar of blackish liquid. Then topped off the reservoir. Turned on the car again, flipped it back on High mode, let it self adjust. Turned off.

Bled PS Front, fill, turn on, adjust back to High, turn off.


Bled DS Rear, fill, turn on, adjust back to High, turn off. Barely any came out, maybe 1/8-1/4 of a spagetti jar worth. Tricky to get to and bled valve

Bled PS rear, fill, turn on, adjust back to High, turn off.

Rebleed all again in same order…

Overall I put in about 4-4.5L of fresh stuff, removed about 4 and created a driveway mural for Greenpeace with about .5L

Ride quality is much improved on speed bumps and general manners. Much much less bouncy and really glides over speedbumps now with authority.

Usually I have to bust out the kitty litter for the older cruisers in the family not my daily! What a mess I made, but we’ll worth it…

 

[04UZJ100]

IMPEX globes shipped. Total price was $440 including FedEx priority shipping from the motherland Japan.

Will pickup the backup washers stateside.

 

[teejnut]

IMPEX globes shipped. Total price was $440 including FedEx priority shipping from the motherland Japan.

Will pickup the backup washers stateside.

Nice. $110 cheaper then eBay.

 

[04UZJ100]

Nice. $110 cheaper then eBay.

I refuse to get parts from eBay.

 

[Omsok]

Hi. Pulled the guards off to see where my pump or lines were leaking, and it is coming out the bottom left front side of pump. Anybody have a photo of a pump taken off a vehicle. I have been going through the threads and video, but not seen anything yet.

Any idea why or how it could be leaking here?

Is there only one hydraulic line coming off of the pump, or two?

It almost seems like the hole in the bottom could be for a second hydraulic line, possibly to the left side (USA drivers)?

Any help, diagram, or photos of pump bottom appreciated. Still at stage of trying to decide whether to try and save AHS or drop in a new Bilstein conventional suspension.

Thanks.

 

[lx200inAR]

Here's a few posts from a thread with a good breakdown of the pump.

HELP! AHC Pump Issue After Reservoir Drain/Refill

Quick question... From your experience what was the most efficient method for getting to the pump's power plug? What do I need to remove? More importantly, what can I leave on? Do I need to remove the bumper cover? I'm sure it's not near as bad as it is in my head but it does look intimidating...

forum.ih8mud.com

HELP! AHC Pump Issue After Reservoir Drain/Refill

Quick question... From your experience what was the most efficient method for getting to the pump's power plug? What do I need to remove? More importantly, what can I leave on? Do I need to remove the bumper cover? I'm sure it's not near as bad as it is in my head but it does look intimidating...

forum.ih8mud.com

And here's another good thread with breakdown and has FSM diagrams

AHC Pump Fun - Disassembly and Clean - Verbose Edition

Story Time: 2013 LX570 111,000mi - California truck with no rust. I posted in the SQOD thread that on a flush from Normal height there was a suction on the reservoir and that breaking the suction kept things running well when repressurizing the system. The pump took a very long time to regain...

forum.ih8mud.com

There should only be one pressurized line. There is a bypass valve so that when the system applies pressure back towards the pump fluid bypasses it and goes to the reservoir.

Here is a diagram of the hydraulic lines.

 

[themud]

I can’t find a definitive on this:

1) LX570 automatically raises higher than H mode in low 4x4 with locked diff when it detects a wheel off the ground.

2) it automatically raises higher than H mode in crawl control.

3) in crawl control you have to hit lever to “manually” raise it in crawl control.

 

[04UZJ100]

I can’t find a definitive on this:

1) LX570 automatically raises higher than H mode in low 4x4 with locked diff when it detects a wheel off the ground.

2) it automatically raises higher than H mode in crawl control.

3) in crawl control you have to hit lever to “manually” raise it in crawl control.

It only goes higher than H when it “thinks” it’s stuck.

 

[ROMR NTX]

I've read this whole thread and a few others. Wanting to make sure my AHC is completely healthy and cared for.

I just bought my 2013 570 with 75k miles on it. Currently sitting at 80k. Everything works fine and the Lexus owner site indicates the dealer changed the fluid at the 60k service. Thought after reading this thread I'm questioning whether or not they did a full swap. I need to visually check the fluid I guess.

I just got a tech stream and check the pressure values.

L-N 12.XX MPa
N-H 12.XX MPa

L-N is too high yes? I have no current or old error codes. I guess the ride is fine, but I have no real frame of reference. I just want to be proactive and make sure everything works in spec. Have some summer road trips planned.

 

[lx200inAR]

I've read this whole thread and a few others. Wanting to make sure my AHC is completely healthy and cared for.

I just bought my 2013 570 with 75k miles on it. Currently sitting at 80k. Everything works fine and the Lexus owner site indicates the dealer changed the fluid at the 60k service. Thought after reading this thread I'm questioning whether or not they did a full swap. I need to visually check the fluid I guess.

I just got a tech stream and check the pressure values.

L-N 12.XX MPa
N-H 12.XX MPa

L-N is too high yes? I have no current or old error codes. I guess the ride is fine, but I have no real frame of reference. I just want to be proactive and make sure everything works in spec. Have some summer road trips planned.

The high pressure reading can be misleading. After the height change the truck fills up the accumulator, so that is probably why you see similar pressure for N and H. What you have to try and do is catch the value after the truck stops raising. Not easy with the refresh rate on techstream. I forget the exact numbers, but it’s around 7 MPa for N and 10-11 for H.

if it’s all working and has fresh fluid, I wouldn’t get too excited. There isn’t much data on globe replacement, but that will be your next step. If you don’t have leaks, and the lines aren’t rusting. There is a method of checking fluid level change between L and H I believe and it being 5 marks on the 200 series reservoir.

 

[ROMR NTX]

The high pressure reading can be misleading. After the height change the truck fills up the accumulator, so that is probably why you see similar pressure for N and H. What you have to try and do is catch the value after the truck stops raising. Not easy with the refresh rate on techstream. I forget the exact numbers, but it’s around 7 MPa for N and 10-11 for H.

if it’s all working and has fresh fluid, I wouldn’t get too excited. There isn’t much data on globe replacement, but that will be your next step. If you don’t have leaks, and the lines aren’t rusting. There is a method of checking fluid level change between L and H I believe and it being 5 marks on the 200 series reservoir.

Thanks. From earlier in the thread, it's more like 8 MPa and 12 MPa. I did notice that the number paused for a few seconds around 8 and then started climbing again. before dropping back to ~0.

 

[ROMR NTX]

ODO at 205k, PO changed AHC at dealer around 125-145k-ish…

Okay successfully received 2 metal 2.5L jugs of unicorn tears from Greenville. There’s Something extremely satisfying about opening the tops of those jugs…. Very over engineered…

I knew it was as gonna be a harder than expected day when the 10mm bolt holding the plastic cover/door was seized so accessing the reservoir was almost impossible…. In hindsight I should have let the pb work it’s magic for the days leading up to the project but I always assumed having a southern truck would avoid sticky bolts.

I eventually got access by just unsnapping the teeth holding in the other three sides and rotating the door counter clockwise.

I used all the info from this thread, along with the usage of a hydraulic pump I bought for the transmission, diff and tcase flushing.

Overall this is and should be a very manageable project for the diy-er… should not be intimidating at all. However like usual I found a good way to f-it-up and make it way more difficult than it needs to be…. It was actually quite easy but I just made an absolute mess of myself and driveway…. The hose selection and control was suboptimal at best…. At one point during the first the DS bleed the hose disconnected I. The dark and shot out fluid right at me and I got fully drenched in that stuff…. I felt like Blue from old school… drenched and passing out out of disbelief…

I first put it in Low, and evacuated the reservoir…. It took out quite a bit, maybe a couple liters. Then I filled it about 2/3rds full with fresh stuff. Then turned on car, flipped it to High, let it self configure and level a bit…. Turned it off. Then bled the DS front, got about 2/3rds of a spagetti jar of blackish liquid. Then topped off the reservoir. Turned on the car again, flipped it back on High mode, let it self adjust. Turned off.

Bled PS Front, fill, turn on, adjust back to High, turn off.


Bled DS Rear, fill, turn on, adjust back to High, turn off. Barely any came out, maybe 1/8-1/4 of a spagetti jar worth. Tricky to get to and bled valve

Bled PS rear, fill, turn on, adjust back to High, turn off.

Rebleed all again in same order…

Overall I put in about 4-4.5L of fresh stuff, removed about 4 and created a driveway mural for Greenpeace with about .5L

Ride quality is much improved on speed bumps and general manners. Much much less bouncy and really glides over speedbumps now with authority.

Usually I have to bust out the kitty litter for the older cruisers in the family not my daily! What a mess I made, but we’ll worth it…View attachment 2964422

I have these same wheels. Bought off a Land Cruiser owner so they still have the toyota logo. Where'd you get the Lexus center cap that fits?

 

[joyRidaz]

I have these same wheels. Bought off a Land Cruiser owner so they still have the toyota logo. Where'd you get the Lexus center cap that fits?

Pretty sure I just snagged a set off of Amazon by searching for “Lexus center caps”… but also consciously aware I was just buying the logo to then stick on there throwing away the cap itself.

Turned out to not just plug and play, the “teeth” didn’t line up after popping off the Toyota emblem and Amazon Lexus emblem… so just JB welded the Lexus inspired emblem onto the lc200 oem center cap after popping off the Toyota emblem.

Not ideal but form over function… oh wait maybe it’s the other way around…. Damn dislexia strikes again

 

[Bryanmc]

Did my flush today, everything seemed to go fine. Fluid levels are good, L-N-H all work.

However, Easy Access Mode isn’t working. Any thoughts on that?

 

[radman]

Did my flush today, everything seemed to go fine. Fluid levels are good, L-N-H all work.

However, Easy Access Mode isn’t working. Any thoughts on that?

Easy Access has always been a crap shoot for me. Has it always been consistent for you?

 

[Bryanmc]

Up to this point, yeah it’s always worked when I’ve used it.

 

[joesrcool]

First time poster, but this thread has been a huge wealth of knowledge. Thank you to those who have contributed! I just purchased a new to me 2015 LX570 last week and wanted to catch up on some possible missed maintenance items, and the AHC flush is one of them. I also wanted to check the health of the accumulators and had only seen the health check referenced very briefly.

Digging into the repair manual and I found this easy check, similar to the LX470 check. As it turns out, the LX570 does have graduation marks on both the front and back of the reservoir tank. In order to see the marks on the front of the tank, you have to crawl under the truck as shown below. You can also take of the rear trim pieces to view the graduation marks on the back of the tank. It should go without say, but don't be laying under the truck while it's in the process of changing heights.

Here's a wide angle shot to provide some perspective.

Enhance....

Enhance...

My driveway is on an incline and the the truck is not level, however, I do appear to get 8+ marks between low and high.

Low:

High:

 

[lx200inAR]

First time poster, but this thread has been a huge wealth of knowledge. Thank you to those who have contributed! I just purchased a new to me 2015 LX570 last week and wanted to catch up on some possible missed maintenance items, and the AHC flush is one of them. I also wanted to check the health of the accumulators and had only seen the health check referenced very briefly.

Digging into the repair manual and I found this easy check, similar to the LX470 check. As it turns out, the LX570 does have graduation marks on both the front and back of the reservoir tank. In order to see the marks on the front of the tank, you have to crawl under the truck as shown below. You can also take of the rear trim pieces to view the graduation marks on the back of the tank. It should go without say, but don't be laying under the truck while it's in the process of changing heights.

View attachment 2997024

Here's a wide angle shot to provide some perspective.
View attachment 2997026

Enhance....
View attachment 2997027

Enhance...
View attachment 2997030


My driveway is on an incline and the the truck is not level, however, I do appear to get 8+ marks between low and high.

Low:
View attachment 2997031

High:
View attachment 2997030

Am I not seeing this right, or is your fluid really low.

You can shove you camera in the fill/inspection hole to see the front marks as well as a decent shot of the rears by climbing underneath and working from the spare tire area.

I’m not sure if this test is a useful as in the 100… with 7-14 (?) marks being the your are still okay, only having 5 to work with on the 200 makes the test harder to compute.

I never had a 100, but the manual for AHC in the 100 is more detailed and Techstream has more tshooting values, as well as the easier to compute graduation marks really makes it seem like Toyota purposefully made AHC harder to work on.

Here’s a picture of the rear.