LX470 Subwoofer Replacement Recs? (1 Viewer)

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Depends on your old sub and amp. The nakamichi was 6 ohm with one sub channel. Options with a dual 4 ohm sub include 2, 4 and 8 ohm total resistance:

2 - wire both coils in parallel
4 - wire only one coil (or both coils separately from two sub channels)
8 - wire both coils in series

I chose the 4 ohm route which puts a bit more strain on my amp in exchange for a bit more juice. If it’s ever a problem, I’ll switch to the 8 ohm setup.
You should never wire only one coil of a dual voice coil subwoofer. That is improper. Your options are 2, or 8 ohms…
 
I re-foamed my speakers for my 2001 in 2011.. at that time sub was blown. well.. they lasted another 10 years and were blown again. I think the 21 year mark may be the limit for the stock speakers .. I re-foamed 4/ speakers a second time.. then stressed system with some steely dan at high volumes.

Turns out 3out of 4 drivers in the doors are rattling / reached end-of-life.. I think for 20+ year old rigs.. the woofers anyway are end of life.. I believe tweeters can last a bit longer but who knows.. I put the SKaR 8 Ohm 6.5 inch drivers in the doors.. and sounds very similar to stock..

The sub is not rattling.. but don't think it is doing much. debating if I dive in there again as well..
 
*Editing as I resolved the wiring issue. I had mistakenly wired both the positive and negative wires from the amp to the same voice coil. I moved the negative wire from voice coil 1 to voice coil 2 and then attached the bridge connection from negative VC1 to positive VC2 for 8 ohm operation. All is working well now and it sounds great!

— original post —
I’m tackling this today. I ordered the Skar replacement sub but I believe I made a mistake when wiring it. Per Skar’s website, I wired the positive and negative to one of the voice coils and then attached the other voice coil in parallel. When my audio is turned up or a song draws a lot of bass, the sound cuts out. Here’s the only photo I took. If you’ve done this install, how did you wire your speaker?
DC5F6441-662E-4428-ADCA-7DC1173AA32E.jpeg
 
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The Skar sub with wiring for 8Ohm operation I installed along with the DS18 pro speakers in the front and rear doors sound amazing in my 06 LX. All the surrounds of the speakers I removed were destroyed.
 
Anyone know if the Kicker 6.75" will fit? I'm looking for more bass
Amazon Kicker CompRT
Honestly, nothing that fits in that stock location is going to give you much more output. I put a Skar 6.5" and can barely hear it up front. I did however add quick disconnects in the area where the jack sits. I run larger subs, and when I take them out, I go ahead and plug in the Skar so I at least have something.
 
yea you're right. The 6.5" Kicker arrived today and it fit in my palm. It's tiny. I'm more used to 10" - 12" but not a lot of space in our trucks if we want to retain 3rd row seating :(
 
there's space on the passenger (right side when facing the back), I'm going to get an estimate for something custom, hopefully dual 10" can fit in there
 
Any have tried a slim (underseat) powered subwoofer or the Kicker down-firing subwoofers? How does the bass compare? Where did you put it?
 
Yea, I went down road of trying to making stock sub work, but gave up. Even with a quality sub and more watts, it just doesnt move enough air. Building a small ported box to house a RF 10” sub this weekend.
 
If losing a little space isn’t an issue, I recommend the 6” dvc bazooka tube. Without question the best 15 minute upgrade to my system so far. I tried replacing the factory sub with 2 different subs, but the problem seemed to be the enclosure itself. It is almost as if it was engineered as an afterthought. I cut the factory sub harness and spliced in extended speaker wires so I could easily move the tube around as needed for space. It really transformed my listening experience…
 
IMO. 6” factory sub replacement for 6” isnt worth it. Go with a powered sub from the likes of JL, Kicker etc. Do not fix the enclosure and you’ll always have the option to remove on a whim. Most powered subs come in micro sizes and youd be amaze at how little space they take up, even with the 3rd row seats up and installed
 
If losing a little space isn’t an issue, I recommend the 6” dvc bazooka tube. Without question the best 15 minute upgrade to my system so far. I tried replacing the factory sub with 2 different subs, but the problem seemed to be the enclosure itself. It is almost as if it was engineered as an afterthought. I cut the factory sub harness and spliced in extended speaker wires so I could easily move the tube around as needed for space. It really transformed my listening experience…
This is what I did also except I used the 8” tube (8ohm/DVC) option. Really incredible addition to the system, especially if you keep the speaker side within a few inches of a panel.
 
Very interested if you end up getting this one or find a direct replacement that doesn't require modification!

Yes I plan to use factory location and do not have intentions of modifying. Just want to replace the factory sub with a decent one
I recently replaced mine and these forums were a huge help. I purchased 3 different types and I'm returning the Skar to WholeFoods tomorrow (amazon) but would rather donate the Dayton pair to the next guy who needs a pair. Just Send me a few bucks to cover shipping and I'll UPS them to you quick.

In case you are curious I went with this speaker in the end. It arrived first and sounds great! Memphis Audio MJP6 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_953MJP6/Memphis-Audio-MJP6.html?omnews=9326609 it wasn't a perfect fit but it was the right depth and circumference. The holes didn't line up but 4 drywall screws will hold it very tight.
 
I recently replaced mine and these forums were a huge help. I purchased 3 different types and I'm returning the Skar to WholeFoods tomorrow (amazon) but would rather donate the Dayton pair to the next guy who needs a pair. Just Send me a few bucks to cover shipping and I'll UPS them to you quick.

In case you are curious I went with this speaker in the end. It arrived first and sounds great! Memphis Audio MJP6 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_953MJP6/Memphis-Audio-MJP6.html?omnews=9326609 it wasn't a perfect fit but it was the right depth and circumference. The holes didn't line up but 4 drywall screws will hold it very tight.
Thanks for the link.

What was the final verdict. Worth the install? Or little to no improvement?
 
I recently replaced mine and these forums were a huge help. I purchased 3 different types and I'm returning the Skar to WholeFoods tomorrow (amazon) but would rather donate the Dayton pair to the next guy who needs a pair. Just Send me a few bucks to cover shipping and I'll UPS them to you quick.

In case you are curious I went with this speaker in the end. It arrived first and sounds great! Memphis Audio MJP6 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_953MJP6/Memphis-Audio-MJP6.html?omnews=9326609 it wasn't a perfect fit but it was the right depth and circumference. The holes didn't line up but 4 drywall screws will hold it very tight.
Is your vehicle an LX or LC? Very interested in this solution but looks like it is 4 ohm and not DVC?
 
Yea, I went down road of trying to making stock sub work, but gave up. Even with a quality sub and more watts, it just doesnt move enough air. Building a small ported box to house a RF 10” sub this weekend.

I'm also throwing in the towel but because those rear panels just resonate and rattle like crazy with the output from my JL 6" W3, would take a ton of deadening and might still not be enough bc the glass is rattling as well. Gonna move it to a small ported box in the back cargo area, found a great box on Ebay, tuned to JL specs, it's not much bigger than a large shoebox.
 
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