LX470 Subwoofer Replacement Recs? (2 Viewers)

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Asheville, NC
Hi y'all,
Ive got a really good car audio guy that will install anything I bring him on the cheap.
My rear sub appears to be blown and I'm not interested in ordering one of the repair kits.
What have y'all been happy with?

Thanks in advance,
Chris
 
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I was going to replace my blown subwoofer with the Dayton audio 6.5” 8 ohm dual voice coil subwoofer. I mistakenly ordered the 8 inch subwoofer and was going to send it back but remembered I had a alpine type our premade box laying around my garage. I threw the sub into the box and wired up in series and hooked it up to the factory wires. To my surprise it produced A lot of bass. Certainly not accurate base but it really rounded out the sound system. The box is very small and I just lay it on his face with rubber feet in the back cargo area. I was really pleasantly surprised!
 
Do you plan to use the factory mounting location? If so, do you plan on modifying it at all?
 
Try the Dayton audio 6.5” woofer from parts express. Make sure it is 8ohm dual voice coil
This one look about right? $22.98?!
 
This one look about right? $22.98?!
Very interested if you end up getting this one or find a direct replacement that doesn't require modification!
 
I went with the Skar Audio 6.5" sub. Dual voice coil, 4 ohms each coil. Checked out the (less than) $20 Pyle sub as well, but it was a paper piece of junk. The Skar replaced my Nakamichi sub pretty easily, but did require grinding a couple tabs and the back of the box down a bit:

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Found it on Amazon and am thinking about it to replace my ML sub as well. As it's a dual 4ohm coil speaker, I wire in both coils to the input, right?

Amazon product ASIN B019WYPLIA

Depends on your old sub and amp. The nakamichi was 6 ohm with one sub channel. Options with a dual 4 ohm sub include 2, 4 and 8 ohm total resistance:

2 - wire both coils in parallel
4 - wire only one coil (or both coils separately from two sub channels)
8 - wire both coils in series

I chose the 4 ohm route which puts a bit more strain on my amp in exchange for a bit more juice. If it’s ever a problem, I’ll switch to the 8 ohm setup.
 
Depends on your old sub and amp. The nakamichi was 6 ohm with one sub channel. Options with a dual 4 ohm sub include 2, 4 and 8 ohm total resistance:

2 - wire both coils in parallel
4 - wire only one coil (or both coils separately from two sub channels)
8 - wire both coils in series

I chose the 4 ohm route which puts a bit more strain on my amp in exchange for a bit more juice. If it’s ever a problem, I’ll switch to the 8 ohm setup.
Xscorpion SP-DE65 Stackable 6-1/2-Inch Speaker 1/2-Inch Up Depth Extender Amazon product ASIN B00ITN4IR6Do you think a spacer like this .25”, would prevent you from having to grind behind the speaker?
 
Xscorpion SP-DE65 Stackable 6-1/2-Inch Speaker 1/2-Inch Up Depth Extender Amazon product ASIN B00ITN4IR6Do you think a spacer like this .25”, would prevent you from having to grind behind the speaker?
Probably, but you wont get the trim panel/speaker cover back on if you do that. It's already tight with the fatter rim of the Skar sub
 
Ring spec:

6.75" outside diameter flange, 5.75" inside diameter flange = 0.5" flange width = 6.25" centerline of screws

Woofer spec


SUBWOOFER MEASUREMENTS​

Cut-out Diameter5.83"
Mounting Depth3.56"
Total Height4.00"
Outside Diameter6.85"
Magnet Diameter5.53"

Inside diameter is too small and since outer flange on sub is bigger I assume the screw mount centerline is also off. And you will have to worry about air leakage.

This Constant sub ask is always funny . Not becuase the op asked but because folks always chime in “it worked for me”. That to me is like the equivalent of guys saying out There in 34’s or 35’s telling it won’t be a problem except for slight rub.

here’s an example option that will be optimal over these deep car audio subs that need bigger enclosure size and more power


3.25 Depth, plays 30hz-4000hz (which won’t matter becuase factory amp doesn’t have juice to dig to lower than 30hz, sensitivity over 85 and rms range is probably appropriate for what factory sub channel puts out.

bigger Replacement sub only Means more/better bass If there’s additional enclosure space and power to match
 
Totally agree with the above. I tried it because I was already working in that space, and to be honest the sub upgrade is a modest improvement. For a few bucks, it was worth the experiment. I wouldn’t do anything more intensive to fit a new sub than the grinding I did in the pics in my first post.
 
Ring spec:

6.75" outside diameter flange, 5.75" inside diameter flange = 0.5" flange width = 6.25" centerline of screws

Woofer spec


SUBWOOFER MEASUREMENTS​

Cut-out Diameter5.83"
Mounting Depth3.56"
Total Height4.00"
Outside Diameter6.85"
Magnet Diameter5.53"

Inside diameter is too small and since outer flange on sub is bigger I assume the screw mount centerline is also off. And you will have to worry about air leakage.

This Constant sub ask is always funny . Not becuase the op asked but because folks always chime in “it worked for me”. That to me is like the equivalent of guys saying out There in 34’s or 35’s telling it won’t be a problem except for slight rub.

here’s an example option that will be optimal over these deep car audio subs that need bigger enclosure size and more power


3.25 Depth, plays 30hz-4000hz (which won’t matter becuase factory amp doesn’t have juice to dig to lower than 30hz, sensitivity over 85 and rms range is probably appropriate for what factory sub channel puts out.

bigger Replacement sub only Means more/better bass If there’s additional enclosure space and power to match
I had seen this speaker in a previous post but I didn't think it would work because it's an 8ohm speaker. I thought my Mark Levinson system is a 4ohm,is that not the case? I'm not a blow the windows out type of guy but I do really enjoy some good bass when the music has it, and I do turn it up from time to time.
 
I had seen this speaker in a previous post but I didn't think it would work because it's an 8ohm speaker. I thought my Mark Levinson system is a 4ohm,is that not the case? I'm not a blow the windows out type of guy but I do really enjoy some good bass when the music has it, and I do turn it up from time to time
So my point was less about the actual speaker I cited. here’s the 4 ohm version.


I thought someone said the levinson was 6 ohm. Either way, I would be reluctant to run a 4 ohm ohm driver and/or a driver with an overly large magnet (too deep and low sensitivity) in a undersized enclosure onan amp that isn’t rated for that low of impedance and probably isn’t putting out gobs of power. It could stress out older gear and potentially impact the performance of all other channels driven.

im glad it “worked” and met folks listening needs but if someone were looking to make a swap it should be recognized that it can be done with a less expensive raw driver that better meets the requirements of the enclosure and factory power.
 
Honestly after all this I ended up ordering the foam repair kit for all the speakers from Simply Speakers on eBay. I watched several YouTube videos and it seemed like the right path for me
 
Refoaming will stop the cone rattling and restore the midbass/bass. It won't make any changes to the tonal quality, but most folks are fine with the stock sounding stereo in the 1st place.
 
I agree... even though the ML system is old it still produces a high quality sound so repairing the stock sub IMO is better then any $60.00 sub. Running a Grom system connecting my phone via Bluetooth allows the ML to shine. I’ve got a pretty sick system in my 80 but beyond better base the ML is pretty comparable considering it’s age. I repaired mine and it sounds great
 

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