LX470 Subwoofer Replacement Recs? (9 Viewers)

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I'm also throwing in the towel but because those rear panels just resonate and rattle like crazy with the output from my JL 6" W3, would take a ton of deadening and might still not be enough bc the glass is rattling as well. Gonna move it to a small ported box in the back cargo area, found a great box on Ebay, tuned to JL specs, it's not much bigger than a large shoebox.
The over the well jl stealth boxes are really good. You could build one similar and not lose a ton of space and ensure no rattles. Pretty low effort compared to dudes building those super stealth ones that involve panel removal

 
*Editing as I resolved the wiring issue. I had mistakenly wired both the positive and negative wires from the amp to the same voice coil. I moved the negative wire from voice coil 1 to voice coil 2 and then attached the bridge connection from negative VC1 to positive VC2 for 8 ohm operation. All is working well now and it sounds great!

— original post —
I’m tackling this today. I ordered the Skar replacement sub but I believe I made a mistake when wiring it. Per Skar’s website, I wired the positive and negative to one of the voice coils and then attached the other voice coil in parallel. When my audio is turned up or a song draws a lot of bass, the sound cuts out. Here’s the only photo I took. If you’ve done this install, how did you wire your speaker? View attachment 3129049
Hey I sent you a PM. How did you get the SKAR to sit flush with the surface of the sub box and make a good seal?
 
I got the Skar to sit flush by using a Dremel to carve down the ridges on the bottom. I needed longer screws also.

The trouble I had with the Skar is that my stereo shuts down at level 30 with stock everything else. I'm not sure, maybe it's pulling too much juice.
 
Depends on your old sub and amp. The nakamichi was 6 ohm with one sub channel. Options with a dual 4 ohm sub include 2, 4 and 8 ohm total resistance:

2 - wire both coils in parallel
4 - wire only one coil (or both coils separately from two sub channels)
8 - wire both coils in series

I chose the 4 ohm route which puts a bit more strain on my amp in exchange for a bit more juice. If it’s ever a problem, I’ll switch to the 8 ohm setup.
Sorry to resurrect this old thread message but I just got a 06 lx and am trying to diagnose audio clipping issue and found it has a Pyle 4ohm SVC installed. You think that’s why it’s clipping?
 
I recently replaced mine and these forums were a huge help. I purchased 3 different types and I'm returning the Skar to WholeFoods tomorrow (amazon) but would rather donate the Dayton pair to the next guy who needs a pair. Just Send me a few bucks to cover shipping and I'll UPS them to you quick.

In case you are curious I went with this speaker in the end. It arrived first and sounds great! Memphis Audio MJP6 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_953MJP6/Memphis-Audio-MJP6.html?omnews=9326609 it wasn't a perfect fit but it was the right depth and circumference. The holes didn't line up but 4 drywall screws will hold it very tight.
How is this sub working out? I tried repairing mine, but it still sounds awful, so now I am looking to replace. Thanks
 
I know this is an old thread. I recently installed a Skar Audio EVL-65 D4 6.5" 400 Watt Max Power Dual 4 Ohm Car Subwoofer wired in 8 ohms and it sounds great.

I had to use a dremmel to get clearance for the magnet and trim the grill behind the cloth speaker cover to get it to fit right. I have no complaints
 
I know this is an old thread. I recently installed a Skar Audio EVL-65 D4 6.5" 400 Watt Max Power Dual 4 Ohm Car Subwoofer wired in 8 ohms and it sounds great.

I had to use a dremmel to get clearance for the magnet and trim the grill behind the cloth speaker cover to get it to fit right. I have no complaints
Thanks for letting me know. Do you have an LX with Mark Levinson?
 
It will be here tomorrow. Can you confirm that this is the wiring you followed:

SpeakerWiring.jpg
 
It will be here tomorrow. Can you confirm that this is the wiring you followed:

View attachment 3408676
Yes. That’s how I wired it . I soldered the little jumper.

You will need longer screws hold the speaker in and a little bit of foam to seal arround the base of the speaker and the box.

This is the foam I used and this is the style of cut off when I used to trim the ribs from the inside of the speaker box. You can use a battery to find the polarity of the factory wires so you wire it correctly.


Yotache Foam Seal Tape 3 Rolls 3/8" W X 1/8" T, High Density Adhesive Foam Weather Strip Seal for Window and Door, 50 Ft Length (3 X 16.5 Ft Each) https://a.co/d/9Re5Ila

Dremel EZ406-02, EZ - Lock Starter Kit, 1 1/2-Inch (38.1 mm) Wheel Diameter, 5 piece Fiberglass Reinforced Cut-off Wheels and EZ402 mandrel included, Rotary Tool Cutting Disc Accessories https://a.co/d/i9LbSYQ
 
It will be here tomorrow. Can you confirm that this is the wiring you followed:

View attachment 3408676
Yes. That’s how I wired it . I soldered the little jumper.

You will need longer screws hold the speaker in and a little bit of foam to seal arround the base of the speaker and the box.

This is the foam I used and this is the style of cut off when I used to trim the ribs from the inside of the speaker box. You can use a battery to find the polarity of the factory wires so you wire it correctly.


Yotache Foam Seal Tape 3 Rolls 3/8" W X 1/8" T, High Density Adhesive Foam Weather Strip Seal for Window and Door, 50 Ft Length (3 X 16.5 Ft Each) https://a.co/d/9Re5Ila

Dremel EZ406-02, EZ - Lock Starter Kit, 1 1/2-Inch (38.1 mm) Wheel Diameter, 5 piece Fiberglass Reinforced Cut-off Wheels and EZ402 mandrel included, Rotary Tool Cutting Disc Accessories https://a.co/d/i9LbSYQ
 
Yes. That’s how I wired it . I soldered the little jumper.

You will need longer screws hold the speaker in and a little bit of foam to seal arround the base of the speaker and the box.

This is the foam I used and this is the style of cut off when I used to trim the ribs from the inside of the speaker box. You can use a battery to find the polarity of the factory wires so you wire it correctly.


Yotache Foam Seal Tape 3 Rolls 3/8" W X 1/8" T, High Density Adhesive Foam Weather Strip Seal for Window and Door, 50 Ft Length (3 X 16.5 Ft Each) https://a.co/d/9Re5Ila

Dremel EZ406-02, EZ - Lock Starter Kit, 1 1/2-Inch (38.1 mm) Wheel Diameter, 5 piece Fiberglass Reinforced Cut-off Wheels and EZ402 mandrel included, Rotary Tool Cutting Disc Accessories https://a.co/d/i9LbSYQ
Thank you! Soldering. Polarity. :oops: This is going to be fun!
 
lol, just connect it like it looks in the picture. Here is how you check the polarity of the old speaker so you know which wire is + and which is -

 
lol, just connect it like it looks in the picture. Here is how you check the polarity of the old speaker so you know which wire is + and which is -


This is how I wired it and it seems to be working perfectly! I took the factory harness apart so that I could fully remove the speaker from the box and it allowed me to check the polarity. Once I confirmed the polarity was correct, I put the harness back together, hooked it up and cranked some Rage on my CD player and it sounded beautiful.
Thanks for your help!

Subwoofer.jpg


Subwoofer2.jpg
 
I was going to replace my blown subwoofer with the Dayton audio 6.5” 8 ohm dual voice coil subwoofer. I mistakenly ordered the 8 inch subwoofer and was going to send it back but remembered I had an alpine type our premade box laying around my garage. I threw the sub into the box and wired up in series and hooked it up to the factory wires. To my surprise it produced A lot of bass. Certainly not accurate base but it really rounded out the sound system. The box is very small and I just lay it on his face with rubber feet in the back cargo area. I was really pleasantly surprised!
Could I use the Dayton 6.5” to replace the front mid woofers? Im pretty sure they’re the same size.
 

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