^^^early bird gets the parts! Up and at'em bright and early!
Builds LX450 where to start! (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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Someone has to herd the cats at work.
- Thread starter
- #1,063
Wow that's awesome! Just say mention his name and he comes running. Lol. Hey Beno how close can you get to Akella's price of $190/ shipped? Shoot me a PM. Thanks!!
- Thread starter
- #1,065
What game? What's your price? I don't play any games but I still need to know what they cost. If your price is close say within $40-50 then no biggie but if it's going to cost me an extra $100, well I am unemployed and money isn't easy to come by. Lol
I think it's more of bad business to be temping OEM parts suppliers into a bidding war on a public forum...
On another note, dude, with all the $$ you pour into your vehicles..... please get a nicer camera so we can enjoy your photos more!
On another note, dude, with all the $$ you pour into your vehicles..... please get a nicer camera so we can enjoy your photos more!
- Thread starter
- #1,067
Yeah I know the camera on this phone sucks and it doesn't have a flash so low light photos are really really bad. I will try and take my other camera into the garage while I am working.
I was in no way try to start a bidding war, I assumed Beno had fairly strict Toyota pricing he has to follow and I don't know what it is, that's why I asked him to PM his price. I was not trying to be sneaky or get some kind of special deal, just give me the price as set by Toyota so I can make my choice. Nothing else was unknown. The other price is posted on this forum.
I was in no way try to start a bidding war, I assumed Beno had fairly strict Toyota pricing he has to follow and I don't know what it is, that's why I asked him to PM his price. I was not trying to be sneaky or get some kind of special deal, just give me the price as set by Toyota so I can make my choice. Nothing else was unknown. The other price is posted on this forum.
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- Thread starter
- #1,068
Hopefully this is a better picture. Old rotor vs new rotor. Yes I am prepared to kill the bus load of nuns and children with the slotted and drilled rotor. Lol
- Thread starter
- #1,069
Cleaning up and painting the external parts. Using Eastwood's extreme chassis black. Seems to give a nice thick glossy finish.
- Thread starter
- #1,070
- Thread starter
- #1,071
Also taped up and painted the hub, kind of a waste since there are so many mating surface. Hub to disc, hub to spacer, hub to drive flange, so really you are just painting the body, which on my truck with the 1.5" Spidertrax spacers can't really be seen. Lol. Oh well.
- Thread starter
- #1,072
Can't even see the hub. haha. But I felt like Delancy and NLXTACY while I was doing it. 
Finished hub and where I started
Bell cleaned and ready to go back together once I get some parts.
Finished hub and where I started
Bell cleaned and ready to go back together once I get some parts.
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I posted iat's
Are you talking about the air to air ic's?
That's the reason we went with water to air.
I still have to find the time to do that washer fluid system-
I think that will improve mine with all that reserve capacity.
Enjoying your build, makes me want to work on the truck
- Thread starter
- #1,074
Yes sorry I definitely need to give you some credit, you did a great job showing MAF temps and then post IC IAT's and maybe I missed them but I haven't seen any posts showing post SC IAT's without an intercooler. I think I remember your IC was dropping the temp down to a few degrees over the MAF temp. But does anyone know how hot the air is post SC in normal TRD configuration? Or with the smaller Pulley?
And yes sorry, definitely talking air to air when I say it's a heater. I mean think about an air to air intercooler's job. It is to try and get the air inside to the same air temp as the air passing through it. If it is on top of your engine right above the exhaust manifolds and heat rises, the person basically has an air hot box at low speeds where the subaru scoop isn't pushing cool fresh air over it. You don't have to worry about this with your setup as the place that the heat exchange mostly takes place is in the front mounted heat exchanger and it has an electric fan for crawling, great setup.
The extra capacity is great, I can drive around and boost quite a bit, stop and pull the lid to the water tank and the windshield washer fluid is still nice and cool. I have yet to see a time when the water was heat soaked.
Thanks for that, a lot of times it's just me rambling in my build, but I figure hell it will help me if I need to remember what parts I used or need to look back and see when I did something, etc. It might also be important if I sell the truck for the buyer to see how all of the non-stock stuff came about.
And yes sorry, definitely talking air to air when I say it's a heater. I mean think about an air to air intercooler's job. It is to try and get the air inside to the same air temp as the air passing through it. If it is on top of your engine right above the exhaust manifolds and heat rises, the person basically has an air hot box at low speeds where the subaru scoop isn't pushing cool fresh air over it. You don't have to worry about this with your setup as the place that the heat exchange mostly takes place is in the front mounted heat exchanger and it has an electric fan for crawling, great setup.
The extra capacity is great, I can drive around and boost quite a bit, stop and pull the lid to the water tank and the windshield washer fluid is still nice and cool. I have yet to see a time when the water was heat soaked.
Thanks for that, a lot of times it's just me rambling in my build, but I figure hell it will help me if I need to remember what parts I used or need to look back and see when I did something, etc. It might also be important if I sell the truck for the buyer to see how all of the non-stock stuff came about.
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- Thread starter
- #1,075
Why the cost of parts fades away. Land Cruiser is Legendary. 
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If I turn the IC pump off, it's easily 20+F higher post IC, sometimes quite a bit more.
I have to believe it would be hotter without the IC in the pathway.
I do know from friends, that the snorkel makes a significant drop in IAT's.
It seems i'm always around 150F once warmed up at the MAF IAT temp.
sorry i missed it, what temps are you getting?
Totally agree about TMAIC, just don't see it working for me.
I bet a simple replacement finned pipe would be more effective than air to air.
I just have to find time to source and fab a large washer tank.
Sometimes the genius is simplicity really clever thinking
I have to believe it would be hotter without the IC in the pathway.
I do know from friends, that the snorkel makes a significant drop in IAT's.
It seems i'm always around 150F once warmed up at the MAF IAT temp.
sorry i missed it, what temps are you getting?
Totally agree about TMAIC, just don't see it working for me.
I bet a simple replacement finned pipe would be more effective than air to air.
I just have to find time to source and fab a large washer tank.
Sometimes the genius is simplicity
really clever thinking
Chrome carbide coating the spindles would do the trick.
- Thread starter
- #1,078
Well my temps are kind of cheating since I am using both an Intercooler and water/meth injection. I can see temps drop below ambient on cool days and to ambient on really hot days. I have my water/meth tuned to kick on at 105 degrees and can usually see about a 30-40 degree temp drop.
Before the water/meth injection and if I turned off the water pump for the A/W, I could see 175 degree temps. Having both A/W intercooler and water/meth gives me some measure of comfort if one or the other fails (bad pump, electrical, etc) either one by itself can control the temp adequately together they are kind of overkill
Chrome carbide coating the new spindles? The old ones are pretty much shot, they have a pretty decent groove in them. Who does chrome carbide coating? lol.
Before the water/meth injection and if I turned off the water pump for the A/W, I could see 175 degree temps. Having both A/W intercooler and water/meth gives me some measure of comfort if one or the other fails (bad pump, electrical, etc) either one by itself can control the temp adequately together they are kind of overkill
If I turn the IC pump off, it's easily 20+F higher post IC, sometimes quite a bit more.
I have to believe it would be hotter without the IC in the pathway.
I do know from friends, that the snorkel makes a significant drop in IAT's.
It seems i'm always around 150F once warmed up at the MAF IAT temp.
sorry i missed it, what temps are you getting?
Totally agree about TMAIC, just don't see it working for me.
I bet a simple replacement finned pipe would be more effective than air to air.
I just have to find time to source and fab a large washer tank.
Sometimes the genius is simplicity
Chrome carbide coating the new spindles? The old ones are pretty much shot, they have a pretty decent groove in them. Who does chrome carbide coating? lol.
St. Louis Metalizing. I will look at my records for a shop in Texas. I know they exist because of gas and oil as well as all the industrial stuff in Houston. Only problem larger shops are mostly interested in commercial work. Spray chrome is another option. Highly toxic to the environment. Harder and harder to find facilities that still do it. It is actually quite a simple process. Industry uses these techniques to repair damaged parts or get more life out of new parts.
- Thread starter
- #1,080
Don't worry about it too much I really don't have a lot of time to mess with it. Cool idea, but might have to do it on the next one. I need to get the truck put back together as I move in 13 days. lol.
