Build Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build

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@Box Rocket

Where did you buy your sliders from? Trailgear.com shows them listed for $200 but that doesn't factor in shipping. If I can get them for less than $300, I'll probably just go that route.
Summit Racing and Jegs both carry the TG sliders for ~$208 with free shipping. The part number you need for the 67" sliders is 120002-1-KIT
 
Bought a canoe a few weeks back and we finally decided to take it up to the cabin yesterday. It's a 1975 Old Town canoe... don't know the model. (I'm a canoe noob. So for tie down, I used a trucker's hitch in for the safety lines... then made another one with the extra length of line. I used ratchet straps for main tie downs)


Side view


As you can see, even with my zooming around corners, everything stayed in place perfectly. (that was a worry) The dirt roads up there were pretty wet, which made for a fun drive up.



When we got there, we put in the new table and benches. We're turning the 3-season room into a dining area:


Then, it was time to get out on the water. I noticed this cool logo on one of the paddles:


Leaving cabin behind:


The movie "On Golden Pond" was filmed on a lake just to the west of here. I watched it, just to see what it was about. All I remember was Katharine Hepburn repeatedly saying "Norman, the Looons..." Anyway, on our maiden voyage, the Loons came out and shadowed the boat. Their call is actually pretty cool.


It was about 70 degrees out and a great day for canoeing. Not only were we the only ones on the lake, but we were the only ones out in the entire area. It was pretty cool having everything to ourselves and Chunky (my 2 yr old son) loved canoeing:


After an hour or so on the water, we headed back. We had some lunch in Alton and drove home the scenic way. Great day playing hooky!
 
A Grunter?????o_O I don't feel bad for your high EGTs anymore :D If you are going the custom route, I suggest you take a look at @Dervis Garip build thread. The intake manifold he put together makes sooooo much sense. I do believe that every Turbo Diesel requires an intercooler unless you use the Im a pussy setting.

I still do not have the balls to open up the boost compensator to check out the aneroid pin. I tend to be that way until I have seen it being taken apart and put back together. I was planning to go air to water but then I got a hold of a 79 hood so that scoop will eventually get grafted to my hood sometime in the near future. At that point it would make sense to go the custom air to air route. I have been told that that should suffice.

Over 20psi!! Your rig must be super angry with the get up and go. I have to admit that I am slightly more than envious of the grunter. Did your fuel rod ever get messed with? Customized in any way? Did you put in the grunter? If you did, how different is it to the stock CT26? I have started s*** talking this guy in a 4bt ford pickup so eventually I do need to backup my s*** talking :hillbilly:


Haha yeah, the turbo on my rig is from Gturbo... the least extreme model. It's supposed to spool as quick as stock but flow more air. Graeme, the owner of Gturbo, said that my version is good from 18 psi to 22psi for maximum efficiency. But, I could run as high as 24 or 26psi and be on the edge of the graph. I've still got my pin on the pansy side for now. I had it turned on the aggressive side for a few weeks and it really moved! But, I couldn't guarantee that the EGTs would stay below 1200 degrees so I turned it back. Looking at the work you've put into your rig, I would say that taking apart and grinding the aneroid rod would be really easy for you! You should do it just to see what you're working with and what part of your aneroid rod you're using during normal driving!
 
how long is your canoe?
 
A couple minor updates. First, during the engine swap the A/C lines were removed. They were reinstalled but not charged when I bought the cruiser. So, I finally got them charge yesterday and I'm excited about that. One of those little things that will make a big difference in my life in a month or so.
Also, after 5,000 miles of driving this rig, I had my first hiccup with it. I was driving to work and I noticed that the idle seemed higher than normal. I decided to get some fuel and check under the hood. I found this:

The adjustment linkage for the kickdown cable has come off one side. So, I reinstalled it and tightened by hand. The plan was to torque it down once I got to work. Well, after about 20 minutes of driving, I could tell that the 80 didn't want to downshift. After getting to work, I popped the hood and found the threaded rod for adjusting the linkage was totally missing. Bummer. So, as a stop gap, my buddy took me to the hardware store and I grabbed some threaded rod (left and and standard thread) along with some nuts. We cut the rod on the lathe:

Then, I had the machinist mig the two pitches of rod together in the middle using the nuts. I ended up with this: (It's not pretty, but it works for now.)

It drives fine for now. But, I'll probably make a prettier version later one, if I get some time. That's all for now!
 
Got a package from Beno yesterday!


So, I changed my oil. Quick question for you diesel guys... I know that you get different readings on the dipstick depending if you check the oil right when you turn off the engine or if you've let it sit. I put between 9 and 10 quarts of oil in so that, before I run the engine, the level shows up exactly at "full". But, this means that right after I shut down, the level shows up a little above "add". Should I add more oil or am I good?
 
It's normal to need to add more oil after the first start after an oil change. My procedure with the 1HD-T was: Put enough oil in filter to make the media wet, but not enough to pour everywhere when the filter was upside down being installed, fill with oil to full mark. Run engine for a minute or so, making sure that it built oil pressure before checking for any leaks. Then stop the engine and wait 5 minutes or so, then add oil as required to bring to full mark again. Then check oil every month or so, or when I filled up with fuel.
 
Yep, as above.
Check the oil shortly after shutting down with engine at running temp.
From ADD to FULL is about 1 litre ** or slightly more. If you're within that range you have a decent safety margin.



** not sure what 1litre is when measured in Freedom units :meh::lol:
 
With the filter screwing onto the engine block inverted, I don't put any oil in before putting the new filter on, still manages to be a messy procedure. I do make sure to run the engine before doing an oil change so everything is wet when you drain the pan, so it's not really a "dry start".

When you first start the engine, the filter will be filled, so it's normal to need to add some after firing it up. I measure and pour in about 9L, start it up, and fill to final level. I'll check again the next day just to be safe.
 
Thanks for the reply, guys. So what you're saying is that I should add some oil so that, right when I shut down the engine, the oil level shows full. But, when I check after the truck has been sitting, with will show over full. Is that right?

(NOOB questions, I know. Thanks for your patience)
 
Thanks for the reply, guys. So what you're saying is that I should add some oil so that, right when I shut down the engine, the oil level shows full. But, when I check after the truck has been sitting, with will show over full. Is that right?

(NOOB questions, I know. Thanks for your patience)

No, I treat true level as the level after the engine has been sitting for a few minutes.
 
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Once the ok filter is full (it should have an anti drain back valve in it) there would be very little difference either way.
100 or 200ml variation when you have 10,000ml (10litres) in the sump, and 1 litre between ADD and FULL still leaves you within a safe margin
 
Once the ok filter is full (it should have an anti drain back valve in it) there would be very little difference either way.
100 or 200ml variation when you have 10,000ml (10litres) in the sump, and 1 litre between ADD and FULL still leaves you within a safe margin
That's good to know. I'm going to check the difference now that I've put some miles in it. Thanks.
 
This coming weekend, I plan to start building sliders for my 80. The plan is to use 1.5" DOM rather than the standard 1.75" tube, for a lower profile appearance. Until then, I have no mods on my truck. But I did enjoy it last weekend.

On Friday, I went to "Man Camp" with my church. It was a LOT of fun. We had 4 baptisms in the pond, a pig roast and hour of trap and target shooting.


Man Camp ended Saturday afternoon so I met Wifey over at the cabin... only 20 minutes away.

His and hers: Our two station wagons.


We spend Saturday night there and had a great sunset. I wish I had brought a camera. Cell pics will have to do:


Sunday Morning had some great scenery too


I explored some "Class VI roads" near the cabin. In NH, these are legal roads that haven't been maintained in years:


We had some canoeing adventures on Sunday and Monday, before we headed home. Great weekend.

 
So, I'm finally getting ready to do some actual modding on the truck. Based on the advice of @Box Rocket and @Bama4door, I ordered up a set of 67" Trail Gear sliders (120002-1-KIT). Yesterday, I did some measuring and it looks like the sliders might be a tad short. Did either of you guys add some length to the sliders or do they seem to work fine at their current length? Did you bias them towards the front or rear at all? I was considering sleeving and extending the ends by a few inches...

Measurements:





 
I did some more exploring on some old Class VI roads near the cabin last weekend:










Also, this package arrived yesterday! ...but I was too tired to bother opening it. Man, I'm getting old!
 
Did a little exploring on some trails in my town yesterday. It was weird running a trail that, in some places, backed to people's yards. (A lady on her back porch looked up and saw us crunching our way through the woods. After seeing us, she returned to her book.) At any rate... here's some non-photobucket content to keep this thread relevant.




 
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