Builds Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build

[Lumpskie]

Thanks @mudgudgeon

I took the old deck out and found the harness that the PO had made. He said he threw a deck in there, just to sell the rig and the harness looks like a temporary setup. So, I think I can just pull the tape off and then solder my new harness on.

The problem I'm running into now is that I can't seem to find the input wire for the reverse camera anywhere! Also, I'm looking for a wire that gets powered when you put the trans into reverse, so I can run the trigger wire for the camera to that. Any ideas? (Does anyone know where the wire for the "R" light in the dash is or what it looks like? What about in the transmission selector... could there be a wire in there?)

I appreciate any insight you guys have!

 

[fj62max]

Thanks @mudgudgeon

I took the old deck out and found the harness that the PO had made. He said he threw a deck in there, just to sell the rig and the harness looks like a temporary setup. So, I think I can just pull the tape off and then solder my new harness on.

The problem I'm running into now is that I can't seem to find the input wire for the reverse camera anywhere! Also, I'm looking for a wire that gets powered when you put the trans into reverse, so I can run the trigger wire for the camera to that. Any ideas? (Does anyone know where the wire for the "R" light in the dash is or what it looks like? What about in the transmission selector... could there be a wire i

Thanks @mudgudgeon

I took the old deck out and found the harness that the PO had made. He said he threw a deck in there, just to sell the rig and the harness looks like a temporary setup. So, I think I can just pull the tape off and then solder my new harness on.

The problem I'm running into now is that I can't seem to find the input wire for the reverse camera anywhere! Also, I'm looking for a wire that gets powered when you put the trans into reverse, so I can run the trigger wire for the camera to that. Any ideas? (Does anyone know where the wire for the "R" light in the dash is or what it looks like? What about in the transmission selector... could there be a wire in there?)

I appreciate any insight you guys have!

 

[fj62max]

What i did was i ran an extra wire together with the back up cam. That wire goes tapped into the reverse light.

 

[GDA62/100]

What i did was i ran an extra wire together with the back up cam. That wire goes tapped into the reverse light.

Yup, tap into the reverse lights to power the backup camera. Go to the rear quarter, piggyback on the 12v pin in the connector to the reverse light assembly for a clean installation. There's a handy ground under the center of the hatch opening. The only wire that has to go from the camera to the deck is the RCA video cable.

 

[Lumpskie]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'll take a look at using the reverse light as the trigger!

 

[Lumpskie]

Time for me to 'fess up. I had some trouble finding where the PO hid the cable for the camera and roof mounted DVD screen (somewhere in head liner), and I haven't had time to work on the Cruiser this week. So, I dropped it off at a local shop, called Wicked CAS. I was surprised to find that both the owner and the employees there were Landcruiser fans! In fact, there were 2 80 series Cruisers for sale in the lot and a 100 series in for some install work, when I dropped it off. I ended up talking with the guys there for almost an hour. It was a cool experience!

 

[Lumpskie]

I got the Cruiser back from getting the DVD head unit installed and hooked up to my backup camera and rear screen. It works great!



Here's a shot of the screen as well as my switch for the Rigid D2s:

Here's the backup camera looking at my garage door in the late evening:

And here's the camera looking at the Civic at night. Night performance is pretty good!

So... now my question. I was driving in to work, playing with the stereo this morning. And... I blew out a speaker. It's the rear most speaker on the passenger (right) side of the rig, in the cargo area? Is that speaker just another mid speaker? Can anyone direct me to the specs of that speaker? Any help is appreciated!

 

[Lumpskie]

So, the speaker that I blew out is labeled "RH REAR QUarter Speaker" on this picture. It looks like there are two back there, is this true? Any idea what the size of these speakers are?

 

[IanB]

That's the factory "sub", and if you bypassed the factory amp when you installed your deck it shouldn't be active. Bypassing the amp should leave you with the 4 door speakers only.

 

[Lumpskie]

That's the factory "sub", and if you bypassed the factory amp when you installed your deck it shouldn't be active. Bypassing the amp should leave you with the 4 door speakers only.

Hey @IanB ,

Thanks for the reply!
Hmmm... my factory amp must still be working then. That's definitely the speaker that I blew out. Any idea what size that sub is? I've done a search and can't seem to find anything? Also, how hard is it to remove that panel back there?

 

[IanB]

Removing the side panel is easy, there may be screws on the upper forward corner, and the upper rear corner (mine has the cargo cover brackets here, not sure what's there if your truck doesn't have that hardware), remove the chrome trim along the rear of the cargo area, then it's just trim panel fasteners that hold it in place.

The speaker is not worth replacing, it's about a 6" driver FWIW. The solution is to pull the dash apart and bypass the factory amp, it powers the rear roof speakers, front knee speakers in the dash, basically all the speakers that will be next to blow, lol.

 

[Lumpskie]

Removing the side panel is easy, there may be screws on the upper forward corner, and the upper rear corner (mine has the cargo cover brackets here, not sure what's there if your truck doesn't have that hardware), remove the chrome trim along the rear of the cargo area, then it's just trim panel fasteners that hold it in place.

The speaker is not worth replacing, it's about a 6" driver FWIW. The solution is to pull the dash apart and bypass the factory amp, it powers the rear roof speakers, front knee speakers in the dash, basically all the speakers that will be next to blow, lol.

Thanks, that's good to know. I've got a spare Focal 6.5" mid sitting in the garage. I wonder if I can just throw that in there for now. (What do you think?)

For my reference:
FJ80 Subwoofer and Amplifier Mounting

 

[Lumpskie]

I dug into the blown speaker issue yesterday. It turns out that my Landcruiser has 9 speakers: 2 under the dash, 4 in the doors, 2 in the 3rd row headliner and a 6" speaker-subwoofer in the cargo area. I blew out that subwoofer. Here is the location:

I pulled the cover off and saw the carnage:

The surround just fell out!

I had an extra Focal ISC 165 in the garage and a quick check of the specs told me that my 55w (RMS) rated Focal would be fine in that location:

So, I swapped the speakers out. The only part that was unique was that the mounting holes of the stock speaker were wider than the focal. So, I drilled out new holes and used course threaded screws to hold the focal in. Also, the stock speaker was both bolted and glued in. (did you see how nicely they staked the mounting screws?) So, I used some "The Right Stuff" RTV on the Focal. Hopefully, that will prevent it from rattling or loosening over time.

And that's it. The stock low pass filter and amp make my Focal act like a subwoofer right now. In the future, it might be better to remove that filter/amp and run the speaker as a mid back there. But, for now, everything works and sounds good!

 

[Lumpskie]

Made some progress on the sliders!

Front foot supports cleaned up:

Rear two feet tacked, fitted and final welded onto the driver's side support:

Here's how the support looks near the front (stock cross member) and rear (lower control arm mount). I will loose some clearance, but only at the frame because, in between the frame rails, the trans and oil pan hand down lower than the frame.

Got the outside feet tacked onto the passenger side rear support as well. When I did that, I got tired of that front muffler being in the way. I want to use that real estate on the frame. So, I called it a night... and called a local exhaust shop. I'm scheduled to drop the 80 off tomorrow and get that exhaust cut out and eliminate the cross over from inside to outside of the frame... and the cross over back inside the frame. It will just be a straight shot. More do come.

 

[Lumpskie]

Here's the muffler I'm cutting out, just so you can see all the bends...
1. The exhaust exits the turbo and kicks to the outside of the frame.

2. It passes through the muffler and takes a 90 over the frame

3. It makes another 90 degree towards the back of the rig

Then it passes through the big Magnaflow

Hopefully, the new routing will be a fairly straight shot down and back from the turbo to the Magnaflow. From what I've read, diesel guys have gotten a decent increase in turbo response, HP and fuel mileage from upgrading from stock to a free flowing 3" exhaust. So, I'm hoping that this 2.5" system will do ok, once I remove all those bends.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Good move. I've never understood why Toyota did it that way. Even less able to understand why people replace the exhaust and follow the same route!

To go between the frame rails, you'll need to go from the turbo flange to get a straight path to the rear (ditch the factory dump)

 

[Lumpskie]

Good move. I've never understood why Toyota did it that way. Even less able to understand why people replace the exhaust and follow the same route!

To go between the frame rails, you'll need to go from the turbo flange to get a straight path to the rear (ditch the factory dump)

Do you have any pictures on info I could see where people have ditched the factory dump? I was thinking about just routing the exhaust down from the flange after the dump...

 

[mudgudgeon]

slightly extreme example here Rolling the dice - slow moving turbo HZJ105 project

or search in the diesel section, there'll be pics if you dig a little. all my older pics are lost to scambucket

 

[mudgudgeon]

Do you have any pictures on info I could see where people have ditched the factory dump? I was thinking about just routing the exhaust down from the flange after the dump...

I think the factory dump would put your first piece of pipe too close to the frame rail to run it neatly inside the rail. You'd have to have a funky bend to bring it back inside the rail

 

[Lumpskie]

I think the factory dump would put your first piece of pipe too close to the frame rail to run it neatly inside the rail. You'd have to have a funky bend to bring it back inside the rail

Yeah, I think there will probably be a funky bend in there. Really, this is more of a stop gap effort before I go full 3" in a year or two. I was hoping some something like this for the time being:

It's big, thick, and black!

Do you think that will kill some of my performance gains from cutting out that muffler?