- Thread starter
- #41
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shipmag
Hagler Technology LLC. Aka Shipmag
Great build impressive. I wish my cousin would finish my welding and painting. 5 years little progress. Thanks for the plug glad your happy with you shift plate.
- Thread starter
- #43
Been busy with some other Toyota projects... a few updates on the 40.
Had a custom shift boot made by Stronghold... Jeep Shift Boot | United States | Stronghold Shift Boots
Jason at Stronghold can make any boot you want, if he doesnt already have what you need. He does a great job!
They make custom shift boot bezels also, but I decided to make my own.
Had a custom shift boot made by Stronghold... Jeep Shift Boot | United States | Stronghold Shift Boots
Jason at Stronghold can make any boot you want, if he doesnt already have what you need. He does a great job!
They make custom shift boot bezels also, but I decided to make my own.
- Thread starter
- #44
I made a custom swing-down spare carrier, so decided to try and make a hi-lift jack mount out of the OEM swing-out spare carrier. Here's how I did it. I cut off the top portion of the mount first.
I figured the single lower hinge could handle it. It locks in and is secured using the OEM clamp and rest. Made a base that would hold the base plate of the jack. Cut some more off the carrier and welded it up to be level.
Locked in. Painted.
Swing out
I figured the single lower hinge could handle it. It locks in and is secured using the OEM clamp and rest. Made a base that would hold the base plate of the jack. Cut some more off the carrier and welded it up to be level.
Locked in. Painted.
Swing out
- Thread starter
- #45
Spare carrier down, jack carrier out. Access to my near zero cubic feet of storage. Oh and working from new shop...
Top of jack secured with bracket attached to hinge.
Top of jack secured with bracket attached to hinge.
reddog90
SILVER Star
That's some damn impressive work.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #48
really nice work!!!
- Thread starter
- #50
Swing down spare carrier. I built this before the jack carrier. I looked at ways to add a jack mount to this, but later decided to do what I did with the OEM carrier to hold the jack.
Parts list:
16' of 1.5" x 1.5" x.125 square tubing
6" of 2.5" wide .25 flat bar
Used as base of upper mount to body and as a backing plate inside of body
18" of 3/4 wide, .125 flat bar
License plate holder
Small Piece of 16 gauge sheet metal
Tacked in the upper triangle to hold 3rd brake light
4 - Grade 12, 2" M10 bolts, hardened washers and, wide flange nuts (McMaster Carr)
Connecting upper mount to body
2 - DOM Sleeve Poly Bushing, 2 5/8 width, 5/8 hole - $17.50 each
Upper mount where hitch pins are
DOM Sleeve & Poly Bushing 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width 5/8" Bolt Hole
2 - DOM Sleeve Poly Bushing, 2 5/8 width, 9/16 hole - $17.50 each
Lower mount that carrier pivots on
DOM Sleeve & Poly Bushing 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width 9/16 Inch Bolt Hole
2 - 9/16 x 4.5 Grade Eight Bolt and Nylock Nut $3.00 each
Lower connection
9/16 x 4 Grade Eight Bolt and Nylock Nut
1 - Spare Tire Mounting Plate - $17.00
Spare Tire Mounting Plate
2 - DOUBLE HH 223 The Original Hitch Pin, 5/8 x 4" - $10.40 each (amazon prime)
Upper connection for quick release to swing carrier down
1- Spare Tire Carrier Rubber Bumper - $14 (amazon prime)
Pads the carrier when in the down position
OEM Heep part Fits (87-06 Wrangler YJ & TJ)
4 - 3/8 Thick, 3" Axle Link Tabs (short version) - $5 each
Lower connection tabs welded to tube bumper
3/8 Thick 3 Inch Axle Link Tab
4 - 3/8 Thick Flat Bottom Tab - $1.50 each
Upper connection welded to flatbar and bolted to body
Rusty's Off-road Custom Tab R-108 - P/N: RORTABR-108
1 - 3rd Brake light, 2" LED, rubber mount - $10.50 per pair (amazon prime) I bought a pait so I'd have an extra one on the shelf.
Amazon product ASIN B077T12Q72
3 - Wheel studs
3 - Lug nuts
Getting position and measuring
First leg
Upper mounting and hitch pin release
Upper and lower mount ponts
Parts list:
16' of 1.5" x 1.5" x.125 square tubing
6" of 2.5" wide .25 flat bar
Used as base of upper mount to body and as a backing plate inside of body
18" of 3/4 wide, .125 flat bar
License plate holder
Small Piece of 16 gauge sheet metal
Tacked in the upper triangle to hold 3rd brake light
4 - Grade 12, 2" M10 bolts, hardened washers and, wide flange nuts (McMaster Carr)
Connecting upper mount to body
2 - DOM Sleeve Poly Bushing, 2 5/8 width, 5/8 hole - $17.50 each
Upper mount where hitch pins are
DOM Sleeve & Poly Bushing 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width 5/8" Bolt Hole
2 - DOM Sleeve Poly Bushing, 2 5/8 width, 9/16 hole - $17.50 each
Lower mount that carrier pivots on
DOM Sleeve & Poly Bushing 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width 9/16 Inch Bolt Hole
2 - 9/16 x 4.5 Grade Eight Bolt and Nylock Nut $3.00 each
Lower connection
9/16 x 4 Grade Eight Bolt and Nylock Nut
1 - Spare Tire Mounting Plate - $17.00
Spare Tire Mounting Plate
2 - DOUBLE HH 223 The Original Hitch Pin, 5/8 x 4" - $10.40 each (amazon prime)
Upper connection for quick release to swing carrier down
1- Spare Tire Carrier Rubber Bumper - $14 (amazon prime)
Pads the carrier when in the down position
OEM Heep part Fits (87-06 Wrangler YJ & TJ)
4 - 3/8 Thick, 3" Axle Link Tabs (short version) - $5 each
Lower connection tabs welded to tube bumper
3/8 Thick 3 Inch Axle Link Tab
4 - 3/8 Thick Flat Bottom Tab - $1.50 each
Upper connection welded to flatbar and bolted to body
Rusty's Off-road Custom Tab R-108 - P/N: RORTABR-108
1 - 3rd Brake light, 2" LED, rubber mount - $10.50 per pair (amazon prime) I bought a pait so I'd have an extra one on the shelf.
Amazon product ASIN B077T12Q72
3 - Wheel studs
3 - Lug nuts
Getting position and measuring
First leg
Upper mounting and hitch pin release
Upper and lower mount ponts
- Thread starter
- #51
Main frame together
Side legs
Center section and spare holder
The bumper and 3rd brake light
Side legs
Center section and spare holder
The bumper and 3rd brake light
- Thread starter
- #52
When down, it doubles as a staircase.
- Thread starter
- #53
If you dont want to build one, theres a vendor called GenRight Offroad that sells something similar for about $1000.
reddog90
SILVER Star
You would be a hero if you posted more details of this process in this thread:
Steel Wheel Tech
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #55
You would be a hero if you posted more details of this process in this thread:
Steel Wheel Tech
Ha! You wont say that when you see how I did it. Although what I did is working well, I'm not particularly proud of how I pulled it off. I'll post it.
Good, I was planning the same thing.
- Thread starter
- #57
Ok, here goes.. OEM hub caps fused to baby moon caps that fit aftermarket steel wheels.
I really wanted to run OEM caps, but also wanted to run a larger tire, so needed a non-OEM wheel.
I was prepared to run stock looking steel wheel without caps, but thought I'd give this a shot.
If you are opposed to cold-fusion, stop reading now, otherwise read on.
I got the wheels and hubcaps from Summit
Wheel Vintiques 12 Series Smoothie Wheels
Part # 12-580604 - 15x8, 6 on 5.5 - $80.99 each (I bought 5)
www.summitracing.com
Wheel Vintiques Center Caps 1009 baby Moon for 14-16" Smoothie Steel Wheel - $24.99 each
www.summitracing.com
(I bought 6 thinking I may mess a couple up trying to modify them)
I bought a set of OEM caps from CruiserCorp, I thnk.
I cant find my extra OEM cap, so cant show the entire process, but I think you'll get the gist of it. Instead, I pulled a couple off the 40 so you can see the underside of the cap.
You can see in this shot whats left of OEM cap after I cut out the ring part that snaps to an oem wheel - see the serrated edge left from the snips I used. I left about 3/4 inch around the perimeter of the oem cap. This allows enough clearance for the moon cap to set down in the oem cap and make contact with it.
Next rough up the outer surface of the moon cap where it will make contact with the inside of the OEM cap. I used 80grit - roughed it up good.
Also drill some holes through the moon cap at the contact area.
The oem cap is stamped in such a way that there are raised areas on the underside, which are the black indents on top side. This is the main contact area.
Rough up the inside of the OEM cap where the moon makes contact.
Why? Because JB Weld is the miracle substance that will hold the two caps together, and it works a little better when it has something to bite into and flow around.
When doing the rear cap you need something to sit it on in order to get both the OEM and the moon cap level and centered. I used a roll of painters tape.
Get the OEM cap level first. Check it several spots all around.
Next make sure you can get the moon cap level. I used a couple small, light weight levels when I actually did this.
Once you're sure you can get it level, take the baby moon out of the oem cap, mix up a bunch of JB Weld and spread it around the inside of oem cap where it will contact - the raised areas.
Put the moon back in, add some more JB Weld in the holes you drilled - be generous with it. It doesnt need to be pretty, it will not be seen.
With the JB weld still wet and the moon sitting in the oem cap, get it level again, then let it sit for a day.
It will be set up enough to at least move it at that point, but I let mine set for several days. I didnt expect it to work.
After it had sat for several days, might have been a week, I tried to pull the caps apart by hand and I couldnt, so I snapped it on the wheel, pulled it off the wheel - it still stayed together, no give at all. I did it a bunch more times and it held strong.
Since it appeared to work, I did the other 3. They've been on the truck almost a year now. Over the year I've pulled them off many times for various reasons, to include today to take pictures of them for this post. Bumpy blacktop roads, a little offroad, still holding together strong.
Doing the front cap is as little different.. You have to cut a hole in the moon cap. After you cut out the mounting ring from the oem cap, set it on top of the moon cap, level it, then sharpie a line on the moon cap of the hole in the oem cap. When you make your cut, I used a jig saw with fine tooth blade, cut just a hair outside of the line you marked. Rough up the contact surfaces, level it, apply JB Weld, level again, let it sit. Theres more contact surface with the front caps so you can use a little more JB Weld.
Thats it. Before I took the JB Weld route, I considered heat based fusion but didnt think I could do it without messing up the oem cap - either burning off the plating, burning through, warping...
I think they came out pretty good and a bit cheaper than having oem wheels widened or custom built with oem centers. Since I didnt have any oem wheels to start with, it was going to be a little pricey to do the other options.
I also looked at welding tabs on the smoothie wheel. If my current solution doesnt hold up, thats what I'll try next, but so far they are holding real good.
I really wanted to run OEM caps, but also wanted to run a larger tire, so needed a non-OEM wheel.
I was prepared to run stock looking steel wheel without caps, but thought I'd give this a shot.
If you are opposed to cold-fusion, stop reading now, otherwise read on.
I got the wheels and hubcaps from Summit
Wheel Vintiques 12 Series Smoothie Wheels
Part # 12-580604 - 15x8, 6 on 5.5 - $80.99 each (I bought 5)
Wheel Vintiques 12-580604 Wheel Vintiques 12 Series Smoothie Wheels | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Wheel Vintiques 12 Series Smoothie Wheels with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheels at Summit Racing.
Wheel Vintiques Center Caps 1009 baby Moon for 14-16" Smoothie Steel Wheel - $24.99 each
Wheel Vintiques 1009 Wheel Vintiques Center Caps | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Wheel Vintiques Center Caps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheel Center Caps at Summit Racing.
I bought a set of OEM caps from CruiserCorp, I thnk.
I cant find my extra OEM cap, so cant show the entire process, but I think you'll get the gist of it. Instead, I pulled a couple off the 40 so you can see the underside of the cap.
You can see in this shot whats left of OEM cap after I cut out the ring part that snaps to an oem wheel - see the serrated edge left from the snips I used. I left about 3/4 inch around the perimeter of the oem cap. This allows enough clearance for the moon cap to set down in the oem cap and make contact with it.
Next rough up the outer surface of the moon cap where it will make contact with the inside of the OEM cap. I used 80grit - roughed it up good.
Also drill some holes through the moon cap at the contact area.
The oem cap is stamped in such a way that there are raised areas on the underside, which are the black indents on top side. This is the main contact area.
Rough up the inside of the OEM cap where the moon makes contact.
Why? Because JB Weld is the miracle substance that will hold the two caps together, and it works a little better when it has something to bite into and flow around.
When doing the rear cap you need something to sit it on in order to get both the OEM and the moon cap level and centered. I used a roll of painters tape.
Get the OEM cap level first. Check it several spots all around.
Next make sure you can get the moon cap level. I used a couple small, light weight levels when I actually did this.
Once you're sure you can get it level, take the baby moon out of the oem cap, mix up a bunch of JB Weld and spread it around the inside of oem cap where it will contact - the raised areas.
Put the moon back in, add some more JB Weld in the holes you drilled - be generous with it. It doesnt need to be pretty, it will not be seen.
With the JB weld still wet and the moon sitting in the oem cap, get it level again, then let it sit for a day.
It will be set up enough to at least move it at that point, but I let mine set for several days. I didnt expect it to work.
After it had sat for several days, might have been a week, I tried to pull the caps apart by hand and I couldnt, so I snapped it on the wheel, pulled it off the wheel - it still stayed together, no give at all. I did it a bunch more times and it held strong.
Since it appeared to work, I did the other 3. They've been on the truck almost a year now. Over the year I've pulled them off many times for various reasons, to include today to take pictures of them for this post. Bumpy blacktop roads, a little offroad, still holding together strong.
Doing the front cap is as little different.. You have to cut a hole in the moon cap. After you cut out the mounting ring from the oem cap, set it on top of the moon cap, level it, then sharpie a line on the moon cap of the hole in the oem cap. When you make your cut, I used a jig saw with fine tooth blade, cut just a hair outside of the line you marked. Rough up the contact surfaces, level it, apply JB Weld, level again, let it sit. Theres more contact surface with the front caps so you can use a little more JB Weld.
Thats it. Before I took the JB Weld route, I considered heat based fusion but didnt think I could do it without messing up the oem cap - either burning off the plating, burning through, warping...
I think they came out pretty good and a bit cheaper than having oem wheels widened or custom built with oem centers. Since I didnt have any oem wheels to start with, it was going to be a little pricey to do the other options.
I also looked at welding tabs on the smoothie wheel. If my current solution doesnt hold up, thats what I'll try next, but so far they are holding real good.
- Thread starter
- #58
The snips I used were straight cut. Would have been easier with curve cut.
The front oem cap has a small lip at the hub opening. Cutting the moon cap just outside of your sharpie line will make sure it fits around that and be completely undetectable when on the wheel.
Theres a slight gap between the wheel and the oem cap. If it hit the wheel flush, it would be really hard to remove the fused moon-oem cap from the wheel... nothing to grab on too. With the gap, you can just get a finger back there to pull it off. SAme thing with the rear. But its hard to tell theres a gap just by looking at it.
The front oem cap has a small lip at the hub opening. Cutting the moon cap just outside of your sharpie line will make sure it fits around that and be completely undetectable when on the wheel.
Theres a slight gap between the wheel and the oem cap. If it hit the wheel flush, it would be really hard to remove the fused moon-oem cap from the wheel... nothing to grab on too. With the gap, you can just get a finger back there to pull it off. SAme thing with the rear. But its hard to tell theres a gap just by looking at it.
- Thread starter
- #59
I didnt take a picture of it, but I used the depth gauge on a digital caliper to make sure the moon was centered in the oem cap. Measuring from the outer lip of oem cap to snap ring of moon cap.
Wow nice build!
