Builds LuckyNB 77 FJ40 - 7 Year Journey (1 Viewer)

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Another small custom addition - grab handles. I later added the cross bar that connects them and hung a couple cup holders.
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The vertical tubes are made out of this:
Unpolished (Mill) 1008-1010 Steel Round Tube, 1" Outer Diameter, 0.065" Wall Thickness, 0.8700" Inner Diameter, 4' Length $15.91 - Amazon prime
Amazon product ASIN B003TPJFJK
The cross bar is a little heavier. The .065 wall was too flexy, so I used .120 DOM.
4 feet of 1' DOM, .120 Wall - $20.50

The upper attachment uses the original L-bracket for connecting windshield frame. I extended it by welding on this piece which uses the original sun visor holes. Didnt plan on running sun visors anyway.
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The bottom uses the holes that would have been the lower windshield bracket. I added a second plate the ties in to the dash.
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I dont know if the cross bar will work for those of you with stock dash still intact, but the vertical grab handles probably will.

While I was in there, I shortened the rear view arm and attached it to a new plate in order to raise it up a bit.
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Some changes in braking components along with new NiCopp lines.

4runner Booster and Master - fits 91 4runner, 1 inch bore
Booster - Weaver Part # 53-2776 - $176 plus $45 core = $221
Master - Weaver Part # MCA39996 - $69
Adjustable Proportioning Valve
I got this from @Racer65 a while back. I dont see it on his website now though and i dont remember what I paid for it.

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NiCopp Brake and fuel lines - they come in many lengths, here are the 60" part numbers. I also used 30", 20", 12", 8" versions to replace all hard lines on the truck. Its easy to form and then holds its shape once its been worked.

Fuel 60", 5/16, $11 each when I bought them in 2016, $16 each today

Dont know why it shows the link this way - links are good...

Brake 60", 3/16, $20

Heres how they looked when I installed them in Mar 2018.
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And how they look today.. no change really.
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I also did backing plate delete with these from Lowrange Offroad.
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Nice build, you've come a long way. I have some suggestions on your brakelines. I've replaced most of my frame hard brake lines with nicop too. Instead of using fixed lengths, look into a double flare tool and tubing cutter. I purchase nicop in bulk 25ft coils and also buy new fittings and make my lines. This allows me to run and cut the lines to exacting lengths. I noticed your junction where the brake lines go from the tub to the frame are straight. These lines should be coiled. The tub and frame flex independently from each other. Over time with the lines being straight will fatigue, maybe crack, or kink and possibly fail. A coil in the lines allow for flex to happen. Also on your clutch line. Hard line and flexible rubber line junctions, the rubber line should held in place by a tomb stones mounted to the body or frame.

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