LRA Aux 24 Fuel Tank - How to Modify for 100s from 2006-2007.

[porkandcorn]

It was a little expensive (maybe $65.00???), because it's pharma grade stainless steel, but it was the only reducer I could find that had the specs I wanted. I chopped it down on both ends - to get to 1 3/8" on the fat end to match the LRA output diameter, and also on the 1" end, to reduce the overall length. I also took as much length as I could off the 1 3/8" LRA output. With the quick 1" fuel hose turn to connect to the factory 1" line, less total length on the modified assembly is better.

If you can't find a distributor, I had Associate Hose Products in Portland order it for me. At one point, it was actually available on Amazon, but not at the moment.

The new vent bungs that I welded on the upper body are called "half couplers", and I got them at a brewer's supply store in Portland. F.H. Steinbart Can't remember the size, as I had the filler with me at the time, but it's a common size. Be careful when you weld them on, as the female threads only go one way. (You could easily weld it on upside down.)

Dixon Valve BioPharm Weld Concentric Reducer

 

[porkandcorn]

Also, when you weld the new bung on the filler neck body, there's only one place - on one side of the filler body - you can put them that allow proper fitment of the modified filler neck. This is because when you thread on the 90 degree fittings for the vent hoses, they project out pretty far, and nealry hit the body panel. You'll see on my modified version that I actually put them in the wrong place (too high), and had to move them down. (There are little discs welded on at the first place I tried).

 

[fj40alex]

The difference is just the part number (sorry I would have to look up the original part number and get back with you). Both are made by Denso which is the component provider of Toyota/Lexus. But if my memory serves me right, the old part number is no longer in production and has been replaced with part number 950-0210. Which is also used by the Tundra Platform which share the same motor with the VVTi (that experienced the same symptoms of stalling under high temps/high altitudes).

Hallelujah. I needed this post. After pulling my fuel filter (left), it didn’t match the one that AutoZone and several websites listed (right). I couldn’t match the factory one (left) and was starting to go crazy. Searching the part code stamped on the OEM filter, I was locating Corolla and Camry references.

Odd issue, when I pulled apart the fuel line (from pump to engine) it was under pressure and a stream of fuel poured out suggesting the line was charged.

 

[porkandcorn]

SOURCE OF LEAKING FUEL FOUND!

I've always had a feeling that my original LRA install was plagued by at least a couple different unrelated issues, making trouble-shooting a challenge. That has turned out to be true. From the very start of this saga, and my original LRA install in July of 2021, I have had fuel smell issues, leaking issues, and EVAP code issues (among other issues). I found the cause of all three issues, that THREE re-installers all missed or failed to look for: There has been a 4"-long hairline crack in one of the factory welds from the VERY start.

I found it during the most recent un-installation, which I took part in myself. This weld flaw either shipped this way, or developed immediately after the first install. It's location so near a major support bracket suggest that it's possible after install, but regardless, I'd recommend anyone installing a new LRA tank have it smoked/pressure tested before any install or re-install. It was VERY hard to see, but the paint bubbling around the general area gave some clues. Then, when the tank was tipped up on that end with still a small bit of fuel still in the tank, it immediately began to seep out, making it obvious.

I was relieved to find it, as that is an easy problem to fix. I had a local radiator shop make the weld repair, and then for added protection, sandblast and line the interior with fuel tank liner, making sure to get the liner thickness built up at that section of the tank. (It's the only linear weld on a seam near one of the two main support brackets - the other support bracket is located near a press-break bend, which required no welding). It passed a smoke/pressure test.

I've been driving around without the LRA 24 Aux tank, and with the LRA lines and filler neck input capped off, while I wait for a date to re-install this system. In that time, I've had no EVAP codes, fuel dripping, and fuels smell for the first time in a year. It's good to have eliminated those annoyances from my list. Now we are left with the issues that I believe/hope that raising the vent bung locations will resolve: fuel line back-ups at the gas station, due to obstructed (liquid fuel-fouled) vent lines.

My install is on May 27, 2022, and I'll run through a few tanks of fuel and report back here with the results. Good progress and hopefully more to come.

 

[GTV]

Good work! Looks like you’re getting somewhere.

Just thinking out loud here… The second gen Tundra had an optional oversize 38(?) gallon tank, I wonder if the evap system was different between it and the standard tank or if it is different from what we’ve got in our 100 series.

 

[porkandcorn]

MODIFIED DUAL FILLER NECK INSTALLED!

The new locations for the two vent bungs worked out great. No issues with filler fitment. However, they kind of need to be exactly where I located them. (And yes, I did remember to connect the 5/8" vent line before I pulled up her panties.)

First fill of both the factory tank and LRA tank with no issues and at full pump speed/volume (no burping, pump nozzle shut-offs). That said, I usually only noticed these fill issues on the OEM-side, after running through the first tanks of gas post-install, and also after pushing fuel from the Aux 24 into the factory-side of the fuel neck. Will run a couple of tanks, do a couple of stationary, and while-moving fuel transfers, and report back. I'm optimistic I may have actually and finally cracked this nut.

 

[liftinghvy]

I was going to say when I began reading this thread from p.1 that having it pressured tested would be the first thing I would do before having it installed. And I'm sure the pleasant customer service at LRA were happy to help with your failed tank... *not* .. Glad you got it sorted. I would be highly PO'd if I spent $2.5k on a faulty tank. Makes me rethink wanting to give them my money.

 

[porkandcorn]

I was going to say when I began reading this thread from p.1 that having it pressured tested would be the first thing I would do before having it installed. And I'm sure the pleasant customer service at LRA were happy to help with your failed tank... *not* .. Glad you got it sorted. I would be highly PO'd if I spent $2.5k on a faulty tank. Makes me rethink wanting to give them my money.

Yes, pressure testing the tanks, that ship halfway across the planet from AUS, would be something I would recommend on new installs as well. I asked for a replacement tank, but was told there were none available in the US a few weeks back. LRAM (the US distributor) was kind enough to reimburse me for the tank repair/liner, however, as well as paying for the original install costs (#1) and the #3 uninstall/reinstall. But I still have had to myself pay for this most recent uninstall/reinstall (the 4th!!!), and cannot even begin to quantify the amount of time, pain and suffering that has gone into this fiasco. My grievances are with LRA (Australia).

I will say that I've encounter pretty much the perfect storm of bad luck. If someone where to pressure test a new tank, modify the filler neck as I've now done, one would eliminate the chance for these same problems to arise. The system, working well, is pretty remarkable if, like me, you *need* the range. (I'm planning a trip in gas-sparse South America). If you just *want* the range, I would think seriously about it.

 

[porkandcorn]

HAVE TO UNINSTALL THE TANK AGAIN - THIS TIME I HAVE A PINCHED FUEL GAUGE SENDER WIRE!!!

This forum topic would not be complete, if I had not suffered through every possible issue that can go wrong with AN LRA Aux Tank install. I'm happy to report that, after my previous install of the modified filler neck, that most likely a sender wire is pinched between the top of the LRA tank and the frame, slowing rubbing off the wire insulation and producing a full short. NOW I HAVE TO PULL/RE-INSTALL THE TANK A 5TH TIME.

For those who have had or will have sender issues, from either a pinched wire or loose connections on top of the LRA tank, you will find some or all of these symptoms:

1) tank LED gauge reads empty when you are full
2) tank LED gauge goes up and down mysteriously while you drive, especially when going over rough terrain sometimes with 4 green solid bars (full), sometimes 3, 2, 1 or solid red bar (empty)
3) when you start the vehicle, the LED read-out is correct, as you drive, it reads erratically. if you turn off the ignition and turn back on, it goes back to a correct reading, which eventually degrades to incorrect/irratic readings
4) after driving around enough, you've completely worn through the wire lining, and the LED always reads solid red (empty)

**by the way, if you have no connections to the LRA tank (the two wires that go on top of the LRA Aux tank to the sender unit, the LED indicator will (flash red), indicating no sender unit is connected. coincidentally, it also flashes red and goes into a 2-minute pump timer mode when the sender reads a low tank level, at the end of which the pump shuts off to prevent

(UPDATE 06.24.22: Just as predicted, dropped tank w/o having to do a complete uninstall - found one of the two wires that leads to the sender crushed and with bare wire - it was shorting out on the frame. Butt-spliced and more carefully located the wires, and back in business. Sender reading great now.)

 

[porkandcorn]

CAUSE OF LRA FOULED VENT LINES 100% FOUND

Due to my post above, I can only pump 2 minutes worth of fuel forward from the LRA tank to the OEM tank-side of the filler neck at a time. The pump protection timer kicks in when you hit solid red (empty) on your LRA tank. Because of my wire pinch, I'm always now reading red (empty). Consequently, I pulled off my fuel cap, and did (8) 2-minuts pumps to empty my LRA Aux 24 for my 5th tank uninstall.

I should have done this long ago, but I watched the flow from the LRA tank into the OEM-side of the dual filler neck for this entire 16 minutes, waiting for the fuel to sputter - indicating my Aux24 tank was empty. Doing so was very informative, and has definitively revealed the critical flaw in LRA's design of the filler neck sent with 100 series installs: CO-LOCATION OF LRA TANK OUTLET AND 1/4" OEM VENT LINES!!!! Very bad idea.

Because the LRA tank feed bung is perpendicular to the fill neck, it hits the other side of the fill pipe, and creates a laminar vortex that completely coats the filler neck approx. 1 1/2" up AND 1 1/2" down from the contact of the flow (see vortex diagram below). So now I know why my vents were always good after install, but got plugged up after my 2nd tank fill... pushing fuel from the LRA Aux into the fill neck, completely floods OEM vent lines every time you use the LRA pump!!! This also explains why I alway have vent clogs on only the OEM tanks, resulting in only being able to fill the OEM tank very slowly at the gas station, but having never having any flow issues into the LRA tank (who's bung is NOT co-located with a fill bung.)

Thanks LRA Australia, for a year of suffering, and thousands of dollars and countless hours lost. Your laziness toward the US market is astounding.

NO ONE, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, SHOULD EVER INSTALL THE 100 SERIES DUAL FILL NECK AS SHIPPED BY LRA. IT MUST BE MODIFIED AS I'VE DESCRIBED IN PREVIOUS POSTS, BEFORE INSTALL.

I have a video, if anyone is interested, that prooves these assertions 100%.

 

[porkandcorn]

(UPDATE: 06.29.22 - WALKING BACK MY PRODUCT RECOMMEND AFTER MORE EVAP SYSTEM ISSUES, POST-FILL NECK MODIFICATION/INSTALL)

FINAL ANALYSIS AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR LRA AUX 24 TANK ON 100 SERIES LAND CRUISER OF ALL PRODUCTION YEARS (INCLUDING 2006-2007):

1. Smoke test tank from factory to insure factory welds are good and held up to shipping.
2. AFTER SMOKING, and for added long-term security, have tank lined with 2-3 coats of blue tank liner (whatever that stuff is). It's worth the time and expense, as tracking pressure bleeds from fuel system is tricky, due to the many possible weak points and connections. This helps eliminate one.
3. When lining, pay extra attention to distribute liner to the upper, front section (as installed, relative to vehicle) of the tank, where the forward tank mounting bracket can cause extra stress on that factory seam. (See last image in Post #44)
4. *****CRITICAL***** Plug and seal original 1/4" and 1/2" vent bungs, which are located on the OEM and LRA-bound fill necks. Relocate to body of filler neck as described in (Post #41.)
5. Weld 1 3/8" (to) 1" reducer on the end of the OEM side fill neck - also as described in (Post #37, #41). This will allow you to connect the fill neck to the factory fill line with 1" fuel hose, and avoid makeshift and unreliable transitions.
6. Use upgraded (wider) hose clamps where you can, and ensure to use fuel rated pipe tape and pipe dope on all connections (aviation grade is best).
7. Be careful when mounting tank to body - insure tank gauge sender unit wires are not pinched between body and tank.
8. Upgrade your fuel pump from the one sent with the LRA system. It's too slow. There are many options. I can't recall which upgrade my first installer used.
9. Upgrade mushroom filter on end of 5/8" vent hose from LRA tank. Place a pre-filter mesh sock on that mushroom filter.
10. During operation of entire system, be mindful of pressure build up during fast elevation climbs, and particularly climbs on bumpy, bad roads and on very hot days. Wise to carefully test for pressure, and bleed pressure, at gas cap in regular intervals to avoid dangerous over-pressurization events.
11. But a new gas cap, and install on LC at time of LRA tank install. This will rule out any pressure leaks in fuel system, and help avoid EVAP codes.
12. If you have a VERY heavy piggy AHC-version LC like me (7000lbs before humans and gear inside), install Non-AHC/regular LC rear coils. If you are moderately heavy with an AHC version, King Springs will be a perfect balance for your new tank.
13. Post your successes here - this product is amazing for the 100 series, if you make my modifications and follow these critical steps.

***Operation Advice for Elevation Gains: Remember, you now have nearly 50 gallons of fuel, and double the fuel vapor in the same OEM system!***

1. Don’t fill up both tanks in the am (cooler hours) then go climb.
2. Don't climb with two full tanks unless you absolutely need the fuel - go full main and half full aux.
3. If it's going to be rough AND steep, plan a stop in the middle and just rest for a 30 min to let pressures equalize. Keep your eyes and ears on your fuel door.

UPDATW: With these recommendations, I CANNOT YET recommend using this product on 100 Series Land Cruiser of ALL production years.

 

[porkandcorn]

Not a great first test run out into remote central Oregon with the modified LRA FILLER-NECK system.

Sunday
-after driving from Portland to Central Oregon Sunday AM, Sunday PM i climbed fast on paved twisties from about 4000ft to a 7500ft pass, then down to camp at 6000ft in 90 degree heat, full OEM tank, 1/2 full LRA (as recommended). no issues.

Monday
-started drive out of camp Monday AM still at 6000 ft, 60 degree temps - LRA at 1/2 full, main tank at about 3/4 full.
-mostly dropped elevation over the next 4 hours to about 4000ft, as the outside temp rose to 95-100 degrees over that 4 hours.
-other than the heat - easy dirt and pavement, nothing a Prius couldn’t do.
-on wavy, rolly, paved road just after lunch, engine started to sputter on slight uphill, and then died after about 1/4mile.
-effectively felt like it ran out of gas, but with both tanks right at 50%.
-engine codes read “lean fuel” on both banks, confirming not enough fuel.
-tried to restart immediately. nothing.
-checked for vapor pressure (like last year's "100 Series Gas Bomb" horror story in UT), but no significant pressure at fill door.
-some additional gas smell at the fuel door, more than normal, but not terrible or like the past.
-unsure whether vent lines had fuel condensate in them or not. too hot to check.
-waited for an hour for flatbed to arrive, trying to keep my cat from dying in the heat. when tow arrived, tried to start again, and it started right up! like nothing ever happened.
-follow tow truck to garage, and ran a stress test with fuel pressure gages attached to rule out fuel pump issues - all within spec, even under 6% hill climb.
-no other issues that day on the 2 hour drive to nearby camp.
-spoke with my mechanic at broadway toyota in portland, and he thinks fuel system just got too hot, and the fuel was atomizing under pressure and not delivering correctly to the engine.

Tuesday
-no issues on the following day of elevation drops in 90 deg temps.

Drive Home Day
-no issues driving back home, much cooler temps

Heat seems to be the common culprit. Problem is, I love dry, hot country (Western CO/UT), so this is a problem if we get stranded in the heat and it doesn’t start up. The other issue is that this system was installed for my South America trip, and there’s a lot of very high, hot climbs in the Andes (Atacama dessert for one).

Not really sure what to think at the moment. Pretty frustrated. Not very confident in a system that fails on hot days - pretty dangerous given the remote locations I most like to travel. I’m assuming all this is due to the changes in the LC EVAP system in 2004, unless you’ve heard similar stories from 99-04 100 series owners. I’ve never had this happen in all my climbs/hot days prior to having the LRA. I guess I could have taken more breaks on that 100 degree day, but it was a pooch of a drive so I didn't think it was critical. Nothing that I would’ve expected to cause the engine to die from lack of fuel!

Sidenote: I also think back to someone on here recommending replacing the 2-stage fuel pump, to help resolve fuel delivery issues like it did for him. Desperate again.... willing to keep trying things.

Yes, I could take more 15-minute, in-the-shade, engine-off breaks during 100 degree days. But it’s not alway very practical to do that in the middle of the desert in nowhere-town. And if the ambient temp is 100, I probably wouldn't matter. Starting to wonder if the only fool-proof solution to prevent this happening on hot days, or aggressive hot-climbing days, is to install electric ball valves on the in and out flow to/from the LRA tank, thus having the option to isolate the LRA system from the sealed OEM system on those days. (Like described in post #24) Doing this was my last resort option, but I may be there.

(Unhappy, hot cat after long day)

 

[saucebox]

I can't locate the thread—you probably know the one—but IIRC the fuel pumps in the 06-07 have exactly those symptoms as they age. Sputter, die, wait 30 minutes, and all is well again, especially in the heat.

@2001LC probably wrote the thread—he might know.

In one of those gas bomb threads, another guy (J1000) goes through (in pretty good detail) the different things he's done to prevent heat being added to the fuel system in the return path. Read up on that here: Gas tank building excessive pressure & fuel smell. Dangerous for sure! Why does this happen? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gas-tank-building-excessive-pressure-fuel-smell-dangerous-for-sure-why-does-this-happen.1214321/post-13251496

 

[porkandcorn]

I found the fuel pump guy: 2006 LC w/ LRA Aux 24 - Fill, Venting, Fumes, Dripping & Over-Pressurization Issues - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2006-lc-w-lra-aux-24-fill-venting-fumes-dripping-over-pressurization-issues.1276871/#post-14305601

Can't find part number, but have a PM into him.

Thanks for the thread on preventing heat build up.

 

[theferg]

I just had to replace the fuel pump on my 02/2006 LX470 due to this type of high-heat stalling issue.

This is the thread I found for info and denso part number:

2006-2007 fuel pump denso #950-0210 instead of 23220-50160

I've had a few different fuel pumps. After sitting for 90 days my walbro quit holding pressure. So I was getting way long cranks on hot soak restarts. The walbro failed shortly and I put in an Reilly returnable $150 import direct pump. Same thing, hot soak start long cranks @ 15 PSI @ at 60...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[porkandcorn]

I just had to replace the fuel pump on my 02/2006 LX470 due to this type of high-heat stalling issue.

This is the thread I found for info and denso part number:

2006-2007 fuel pump denso #950-0210 instead of 23220-50160

I've had a few different fuel pumps. After sitting for 90 days my walbro quit holding pressure. So I was getting way long cranks on hot soak restarts. The walbro failed shortly and I put in an Reilly returnable $150 import direct pump. Same thing, hot soak start long cranks @ 15 PSI @ at 60...

forum.ih8mud.com

Have one on order. Hopefully this helps. Obviously, I don't have any confidence in the LRA system yet, if I'm blaming symptoms on it.

 

[2001LC]

I can't speak to your modified fuel system.

But the 06-07 have a known bad fuel pump. Typical sign, is after pumps runs in high speed, which it gets hot doing so. Heat = resistance. It fails to produce enough fuel flow/pressure to fuel injectors, as it drops back to low speed. This shows itself on hot day, which adds to the heat (resistance). This is most often reported after ascending a hill/pass As we pull up hill, we run in a higher RPM, which kicks fuel pump into high speed. Then we let off gas pedal as we began the descent. Fuel pump drop to low speed by way of power/current reduced. At this point, resistance is high and fuel pump motor turns to slow. Fuel starvation.

If watching tech stream or check for DTC, at time of failure. You will see bank 1 & 2 lean codes.

 

[porkandcorn]

FYI. Replaced the fuel pump, and continue to have stalling issues, that resolve after giving the engine/fuel system about 20-30 minutes to chill out....

 

[porkandcorn]

Latest update on the LRA system mods and issues:

So, put my 06 through some rigorous tests in UT/CO last couple of weeks.

1. The raised vent bungs have definitively solved the vent fouling issues that caused back-ups and gas station fuel pump clicks off from before the mods. Full flow into both tanks on about 8 complete fills. No issues.

2. Sadly, even after replacing the suspect 2-speed fuel pump, I continue to have stalling issues, that resolve after letting the vehicle rest for 20-30 minutes. For example, followed LRAM's advice to climb elevation with 1/2 full LRA, but elevation climbs in the hills East of Ouray, CO, proved still to be too much for the system. Air temps were in the mid 70's. Far from hot out. I started the climb in Ouray at approx. 7500 ft, with 3/4 OEM tank and 1/2 LRA tank, and at the Summit shut off the vehicle, and it would not start again for about 30 minutes.

3. I am also having fuel boiling issues that I never had before in pretty innocuous situations - for example, in Durango, CO, after driving in 85-90 degree temps for the morning, we began to climb toward Ouray - after about a 2000 ft of climb on a highway, I pulled over to inspect for fuel boiling, and sure enough, the gas was boiling up from a 5/8 full OEM tank!!!, nearly to the level of the raised vent bungs!!! At that stop, I also shut off the engine, and it struggled to start until about 20 minutes rest. Obviously, I was concerned that the OEM fuel fowled my raised vents, but evident by the fact that I could still fill both tanks with full flow at the gas station, that fear went away.

Pretty frustrating, given I've solved so many of the other issues related to the LRA system's incomplete design and testing by the Aussies. My educated guess is that with the added fuel *surface area* of the two tanks (OEM + LRA), the evaporative system is overwhelmed, and cannot process the vapor fast enough, especially when air temps are over 80 and especially/doubly when climbing significant elevation. This likely encourages the fuel boiling, which according to my Toyota LC mechanic, and cause fuel over pressurization and atomization at the cylinder - causing "lean" codes to show up on the dash.

So, as a result, and to avoid these dangerous stalls at high elevation mountain passes and in the heat (I'm going to South American Andes next year, where there are several mountain passes well above 16,000 ft!!!!) - I'm going to attempt my "OEM Isolated" system mod, so that I can completely seal off the LRA tank from the OEM evap system. This will mean that the LRA tank, when isolated, with only be able to vent through the 5/8" vent line and mushroom filter.

It's my only option now. So I'm going to pursue it, as described in post #24

 

[porkandcorn]

Perseverance.

Here is the modified LRA Aux 24 Tank for my 06 LC. This is the definitive solution.

1. I've replaced the 1 1/8" filler inlet on the LRA tank with a piece of 1"x3" MPT. This allows a direct thread on of the 1" electric ball valve, to avoid needing to mount it somewhere else. (((NOTE: WOULDN'T FIT AS PLANNED. CUT OFF THREADS, AND USED 1 1/4" HOSE.))) This valve will be opened by a switch on the dash, wired to the ignition battery. When you want to fill, you switch on (will be a red indicator light showing power/valve open), and fill. When you are done filling, you switch off to close the valve.

2. As recommended by LRAM (distributor), I've increased the vent to atmosphere on the LRA tank to 1", which is what many 200 Series owners are also apparently doing to reduce fuel boiling under heat and elevation gain.

3. The 1/2" electric valve will be mounted forward of the LRA tank, as to interrupt that 3/8" filler line that goes to the OEM side of the filler neck. It will be strapped to the frame at that point. That ball valve will be slaved to the LRA pump switch at the dash. When you power on the pump, the valve will open simultaneously and automatically. It will close back off when the pump is off.

These two ball valves will completely isolate the LRA system from the OEM system. Done deal. Will post some photos during the install.